2020 GEC #23 Trapper Thread

knifethetank said:
Good luck with your hunt planning, what angle do you think GEC put on that knife and what angle will you put
Click to expand...
After sharpening Kiteman72 's 23 that he held his give away with, 25 seems a little steep. Members here felt that my going to 20 dps would be fine. I've found that 20 dps isn't too shallow at all. The only place along the blade that im really having to remove material is at the tip and the first 1/4" from the tip. I have a 17 dps slot on my jig. And I could have gone with that in my opinion. When I'm done with all 7 progressions, ill try and capture a picture and post it here. Re:gecs edge. Not sure, but I've watched it done, 3 different times. They are put on by hand on an 18 or so diameter wheel. So it probably can vary. The gecs are so thin behind the edge that at 20 dps, the bevel doesn't stand out as being too shallow, if that makes sense. The pic will help clarify what im trying to say. When I'm done of course.....the lansky is not a fast system, but it works for dummies like me and its affordable.
 
I think I understand what you’re saying and can’t wait to see your finished work. I’m still old school and have been using Lansky for many years and I guess that’s what got me interested in post.
 
knifethetank said:
I think I understand what you’re saying and can’t wait to see your finished work. I’m still old school and have been using Lansky for many years and I guess that’s what got me interested in post.
Click to expand...
Really hard to capture, but here is 4 progressions of diamond stones at 20dps on the 23. Extra coarse to fine. I have 3 Arkansas lanskies yet. This is about 2 500 strokes.
20201016_234831.jpg 20201016_234805.jpg 20201016_234851.jpg
 
I’m able to zoom in on your pics, you do nice clean work. Usually with a new knife I don’t use extra coarse but if you’re changing the angle some I guess it’s needed. I was finally able to buy a 23L and can’t wait for it to arrive. I’m hoping I can compare your work to the factory edge but if I can’t no big deal. Thanks for sharing your sharpening skills and if the pull is not to bad on my 23L I’ll keep it and try your technique to sharpen.
 
This came in a few days ago.

fEPW9tL.jpg


fJuAG4V.jpg


I've been looking forward to this one (it sort of rounds out my haul of LL's from this run).

eLU0YL0.jpg


I like it, but this knife may have to take a trip back to GEC for repair, because this is as far as the the liner lock extends when you open the knife.

hXrG8hY.jpg


Now the liner lock my Beaver Tail goes all the way over to the opposite liner and operates smoothly. The lock on the Micarta is a little gritty, and doesn't quite go all the way over to the opposite liner when you open the knife, but you can push it over all the way if you want, and it does go far enough on its own that I'd confidently say it's locked. But this one doesn't even make it half way, and you can't push it any further than that.

4gxhrtd.jpg
 
My redtail came in last night, it's a pretty workhorse and the pull is not that bad with my hand issues, larger knives are easier for me to handle these days. I have similar issues as Barrett, my lock hardly moved to the right at all and it was so bad it was real hard push the lock to close the knife. After the grandkids left for the night I flushed and worked the knife and all kinds of grit flushed out and the lock is useable now and the liner lock is almost mid point. Flushing did help my issue but I would prefer the lock more to the right, I probably need to flush and break in more and I'll post pics later on.
 
okay, here's my final update, flushing the left side between the liner and lock last night helped and there's nothing more to flush today on that side. After oiling and working the lock and blade back and forth moved the lock all the way to the right. At that point I was stuck and it took time to free after applying more oil. The problem is the lock and blade are tight but after applying nano oil on the tight spot and working the blade and lock again it appears to be working okay :thumbsup:. It might get tight again if the knife sits but oil and use should keep it okay, :).

23LL.jpg
 
knifethetank said:
okay, here's my final update, flushing the left side between the liner and lock last night helped and there's nothing more to flush today on that side. After oiling and working the lock and blade back and forth moved the lock all the way to the right. At that point I was stuck and it took time to free after applying more oil. The problem is the lock and blade are tight but after applying nano oil on the tight spot and working the blade and lock again it appears to be working okay :thumbsup:. It might get tight again if the knife sits but oil and use should keep it okay, :).

View attachment 1440580
Click to expand...
Actually, that's probably as good as it gets. If yours goes instantly all the way across, it means it's not touching the tang of the blade at all. This will leave a tiny bit of play in the blade, like my mesquite has. It's not much, but for a purist that doesn't like any play at all, it could become an issue.
My mesquite is perfectly fine, even with the "micro-play" against the lock. It is certainly easy to unlock and close the blade. My micarta only goes about halfway across, and is a little difficult to "unlock" for closing. It helps if I pull the blade back toward the spine a touch, and the lock turns loose more easily.
My understanding was that these liner locks were not really to "lock" the blade in place, but be more of a "safety catch" to prevent accidental closing. If that is, in fact, true, then you would want it to go all the way across without touching the tang. It would be simply in place as a fail-safe block... a mechanical safety against closure.
This is my mesquite....

7CBVDkg.jpg
 
hornetguy said:
If yours goes instantly all the way across, it means it's not touching the tang of the blade at all.
Click to expand...
Exactly!!!
I wouldn't want mine to go all the way across.
It will eventually wear-in and move across on it's own over time.
Contact with the tang will give a tighter lockup, but prevent it from moving all the way over.
 
I’ve tried flushing and working mine, but there’s no getting it any further than just barely engaged. I suppose it does technically lock the blade — I’m not going to be performing any stress tests against the spine ;), but I certainly can’t close it by hand with the lock “engaged,” and to be honest, I don’t really handle these knives any different than I’d they were regular slipjoints — but I also wouldn’t say that it’s functioning properly/as designed.

For what it’s worth, the lock on my Beaver Tail (far left in the lock-comparison photo in my previous post) goes all the way across, but it does contact the tang (you can feel it when operating the lock) and the blade as no play at all.
 
My Bullet linerlock was the same. I remedied it by taking a little off of the end of the tang on a diamond plate and then polishing it . Added bonus is now the spring is flush at half stop. :thumbsup:

Liner now works as it should. There was a small burr on the liner lock as well that was making it stick.

20201020_115650.jpg 20201020_120218.jpg
 
This is my first GEC liner lock and it sure is different from others I’ve owned and CRK frame lock for years. I would have never thought it would go 100% to the right but it does. Oh well I’m happy with it, hope Barrett gets his worked out.
 
tmd_87 said:
My 23 liner lock was finally delivered. Man this thing is sweeeet. I like it a lot better than the 2 blade versions. The action is great, pull is about a 6. Liner lock functions perfectly. Bye bye 2 blades #23s.
hZwEhnS.jpg

2uZe85z.jpg
Click to expand...

Very nice, Taylor.

That one is the only one I wanted outside of the Mesquite that I have - have not been able to turn one up yet though.

Just so happens that I've got it in my pocket today - quick indoor pic due to the sun being so bright out at the moment.

rkZgul4.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top