30 Degree Edge Angle on Hard Use INFI?

richstag said:
Cobalt, don't be afraid.

I'm telling you guys, I have been doing this and using them for years like it. They have a limit, but even for my thinned FBMLE it was very thin for such a huge heavy knife. You have to remember how much weight is behind the edge on a FBMLE. When I got damage it was my 225lbs chopping almost all the way through a 2x4 in one chop. What got the edge to bend laterally were the nots. Rock hard nots. Minimal lateral bending. I have put that FBMLE through hell.

There is a review for you guys.

Kevin
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No problem there. I have never been afraid of hitting the edge my way. I know you can take the old infi to 11 degrees each side no problem. The newer lower Rc stuff should be fine at 15 per side.
 
Cobalt,

Didn't know you had done this yourself. Thanks for the info on the old infi too. Appreciate it. I hope you didn't take me the wrong way.

It makes me want an original SHBM though. Thanks so much for that... :-p
 
richstag said:
Cobalt,

Didn't know you had done this yourself. Thanks for the info on the old infi too. Appreciate it. I hope you didn't take me the wrong way.

It makes me want an original SHBM though. Thanks so much for that... :-p
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not at all. I hadn't mentioned it before so you could not possibly know it. I think the original factory asymmetrical edges on the old busse's were the equivalent of something like 28 degrees. But because of convexing it is hard to really tell.

There is an old user SHBM on the exchange that I have been watching. It may have been mine at one time who knows. I don't need another but sometimes it's hard to say no:D
 
Thanks y'all. I'm no stranger to sharpening. I've thinned out my edge on my boss jack with sandpaper on my strops and what not but think its upgrade time. Especially if I'm willing to invest so much in one knife but am
Not fully satisfied with its cutting ability.
 
I seem to remember that the BAD's are 60-61. I think I remember that 62 was about the top, and some of the oldies were 61-62?

My BAD does seem to "edge out" my regular hardness Infi. Not enough that I don't love my cabs. Wood laser!

I took my FBMLE down a bit (it had already been sharpened wicked sharp by Bill Siegle, the custom maker that pimped me out my first infi). I then convexed it after I chopped a stone in half by accident (with almost no damage at all).

That sucker BIT and bit deep chopping!

IMG_1960.jpg




IMG_1962.jpg


IMG_1965.jpg


I believe the edge was more than 30 inclusive. More likely 40+ inclusive. 25 per side even? Still cut like a laser.
 
Bill does incredible work and makes great knives all his own. 61-62 was definitely the std for the old lines. And I think that there were some batches within the straight handle line that even went higher. but no need to worry about those ;)
 
Well, i got my Wicked edge put together today, and took the time to sharpen 2 folders. I'm not quite confident enough yet to use it on my TGLB, but the 2 that i sharpened are quite simple CRAZY sharp. Hair popping is an understatement.

I didn't take the time to really refine the edge to a mirror edge or even strop them, and they were still able to effortlessly shave arm hair. I am much more impressed by this system than i expected to be


Step 1: re-profiling. This part takes a long time to get right when you're starting with convexed edges. It took me nearly 40 minutes to do the first one and the second one went just a little faster, but not that much.

Step 2: Refining. This part is much faster. It took me about 15 minutes to go from 200 to 1600 grit. Once this part is complete, you can stop and your blade will be as sharp as you could ever possibly need. It's not aesthetically appealing at this point, but the edge is very uniform and doesn't look bad

Step 3: Polishing. I haven't done this yet. I am just guessing, but i think that taking an extra 15-20 minutes on the 1200 and 1600 ceramic stones will make the edge look quite nice. I haven't used my strops yet because i just got them loaded and am letting them dry. Tomorrow i'm going to try to really refine an edge, and will post some pictures. As far as getting a really mirror finish... i haven't a clue what that'll take, but we'll see
 
BePrepared said:
Well, i got my Wicked edge put together today, and took the time to sharpen 2 folders. I'm not quite confident enough yet to use it on my TGLB, but the 2 that i sharpened are quite simple CRAZY sharp. Hair popping is an understatement.

I didn't take the time to really refine the edge to a mirror edge or even strop them, and they were still able to effortlessly shave arm hair. I am much more impressed by this system than i expected to be


Step 1: re-profiling. This part takes a long time to get right when you're starting with convexed edges. It took me nearly 40 minutes to do the first one and the second one went just a little faster, but not that much.

Step 2: Refining. This part is much faster. It took me about 15 minutes to go from 200 to 1600 grit. Once this part is complete, you can stop and your blade will be as sharp as you could ever possibly need. It's not aesthetically appealing at this point, but the edge is very uniform and doesn't look bad

Step 3: Polishing. I haven't done this yet. I am just guessing, but i think that taking an extra 15-20 minutes on the 1200 and 1600 ceramic stones will make the edge look quite nice. I haven't used my strops yet because i just got them loaded and am letting them dry. Tomorrow i'm going to try to really refine an edge, and will post some pictures. As far as getting a really mirror finish... i haven't a clue what that'll take, but we'll see
Click to expand...


I have used the wicked edge and you got it down right. The biggest mistake people make is that they think that reprofiling should be quick and they never really reprifile the edge.
 
Well, i went ahead and got started on my TGLB. So far, the reprofile has been INSANELY hard. Taking a 40 degree convex down to a 30 degree flat edge is just about the hardest sharpening i've ever done.

it already looks very nice, and i haven't even gotten to the polishing stages yet.

I am starting to wish i'd gone with 40 degree inclusive just because of the massive effort it has taken to remove that much steel. I have a feeling it's going to cut like a laser when it's done though
 
excited to hear the final results! I think I've convinced my dad he needs a wicked edge for his kitchen knives..:unconscious:
 
as long as you don't go too thin for your uses, it will be well worth the effort, especially if you end up needing to resharpen in the field.
 
Haha!

I used an edgepro to take my FBMLE down originally. It took me weeks and I finally gave up. Its can be a lot of steel to remove depending on the factory edge.

Kevin
 
I like to do most of the work on 80 grit sandpaper to knock the shoulder back. Then use something finer and more precise at the edge. It doesn't need to be exactly convex or V as long as you get the performance you are looking for
 
Its all about the performance. Love the performance I get from my kalamazoo 1sm and 3m belts. Finish it up with leather belts and compounds. Can't ask for more.
 
Okay, i can tell ya this... DO NOT sharpen the tip on the TGLB to 30 degrees

More info to come perhaps, pending reply to an email
 
Thats not good news :(

Take a look at this post of mine from a few years ago. Pay attention closely to the bold/red text.


richstag said:
Even from side to side, the belt never touched anywhere but the edge, thinner edge by the choil evening out to the belly and thickening gradually between the belly and the tip.

QUICK pic:
LE1.jpg
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I am REALLY sorry this test did not work out for you. There was a reason back then that I thickened the edge towards the tip.

Kevin
 
On the happy side, Busse service has once again proven to be absolutely top notch.

Got my email from Lexi this morning. She didn't even call me a dumbass :p

This is my fault, and i make no excuses for it, but the Busse family is standing behind their product.
 
Yeah, there is pretty much no reason to thin the tip. I like the tip thick for prying and I only thin the edges. When I sharpen, for every pass I do on the tip edge, I do probably 6 passes on the edge.
 
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