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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L6DX83w95Oc
[youtube]L6DX83w95Oc[/youtube]
The above is a video from cliff talking about the minimum edge angle you can do before the knife starts to take on damage from normal use. He keeps his chopping knives between 12 and 15 degree's per side (15 being for winter use on hard frozen woods 0_0). It's not a directly usable example for what your talking about (hard use) but it is a good description of how you can push the limits of a steel and get the most out of it performance wise while keeping major damage and failure in check.
This is what I tend to set my INFI at. Busse kin in general has gotten better with their angles, it's no longer 35-40 degree's per side on the stock edge. My 1311 was 21 per side on the straight edge and 36 per side at the tip, which isnt bad, but they tend to be thick right behind the edge and can benefit from a releif bevel.
Cliff's example on the knife shown in the video is the last one in my image, but with a more acute microbevel (apex bevel in his terms). He is also regrinding everything, not just the edge, but for our purposes we can assume that if your going to do 10-15 degree's per side your going to be regrinding most of the knife away anyways. To me theres no reason to let INFI go above .035" thick behind the edge. It's strong enough that unless your going to be chopping truck springs with it it can handle a lot of shock force at that thickness. Anything below .020" right behind the edge and you start getting into INFI's weak territory. By 'weak' I don't mean bad performance at all - just the area where a much harder steel (d2 at 60rc) would retain it's form a little better. The thinner the edge the more INFI's maleability works against it, since there isn't enough backing metal to keep the rolls, dents and mashes from going higher into the edge/knife. INFI is still strong when thin, but it's less able to stay rigid and aligned than if it had more backing material or copared to other harder steels. In another steel at high hardness (58-60rc) you are more likely to have a chip that eats up a lot of the edge though, where INFI will deform and be more likely to be able to be steeled back.
Push the limits, but be away that the thinnest busse has ever let out of it's shop on a stock production model is around .020" thick behind the edge, and that was on the CABS. I consider that the benchmark for busse where when you go thinner you start to push some of it's abilities. It's where the game of chicken starts with performance vs. edge stability. A worthwhile game, you just have to pay attention to your edge more as your working with it.
[youtube]L6DX83w95Oc[/youtube]
The above is a video from cliff talking about the minimum edge angle you can do before the knife starts to take on damage from normal use. He keeps his chopping knives between 12 and 15 degree's per side (15 being for winter use on hard frozen woods 0_0). It's not a directly usable example for what your talking about (hard use) but it is a good description of how you can push the limits of a steel and get the most out of it performance wise while keeping major damage and failure in check.
This is what I tend to set my INFI at. Busse kin in general has gotten better with their angles, it's no longer 35-40 degree's per side on the stock edge. My 1311 was 21 per side on the straight edge and 36 per side at the tip, which isnt bad, but they tend to be thick right behind the edge and can benefit from a releif bevel.

Cliff's example on the knife shown in the video is the last one in my image, but with a more acute microbevel (apex bevel in his terms). He is also regrinding everything, not just the edge, but for our purposes we can assume that if your going to do 10-15 degree's per side your going to be regrinding most of the knife away anyways. To me theres no reason to let INFI go above .035" thick behind the edge. It's strong enough that unless your going to be chopping truck springs with it it can handle a lot of shock force at that thickness. Anything below .020" right behind the edge and you start getting into INFI's weak territory. By 'weak' I don't mean bad performance at all - just the area where a much harder steel (d2 at 60rc) would retain it's form a little better. The thinner the edge the more INFI's maleability works against it, since there isn't enough backing metal to keep the rolls, dents and mashes from going higher into the edge/knife. INFI is still strong when thin, but it's less able to stay rigid and aligned than if it had more backing material or copared to other harder steels. In another steel at high hardness (58-60rc) you are more likely to have a chip that eats up a lot of the edge though, where INFI will deform and be more likely to be able to be steeled back.
Push the limits, but be away that the thinnest busse has ever let out of it's shop on a stock production model is around .020" thick behind the edge, and that was on the CABS. I consider that the benchmark for busse where when you go thinner you start to push some of it's abilities. It's where the game of chicken starts with performance vs. edge stability. A worthwhile game, you just have to pay attention to your edge more as your working with it.