#44 Northwoods barlow.

I have recieved my mammoth as well. Breathtaking. No pics sorry but im home again in a week and will post some then.
 
Here is my Elephant Ivory #17 Madison Barlow with the Camel Bone Freemont Jack I recently received from Derrik at Knives Ship Free.

Love the Barlow!!!


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This one arrived yesterday. It's even larger than I had anticipated. I certainly hope that Northwoods continues to use this dyed camel bone - stunning color.

 
Here are some pictures of mine.







There is one thing I don't like, there's always something. It wont take much sharpening before the tip gets exposed, and I'll have to either drop it or file the kick.


Will filing the kick affect the backspring position when it's closed?

It might have been mentioned before, but what are the bolsters made from, and will they develop patina?
 
The bolsters are nickel silver so they will not patina.

I think you will be fine as you sharpen the knife. You may just have to file the kick a small bit as you go.

I am glad you like it. Mine has taken over my pocket rotation. :)
 
okbohn said:
The bolsters are nickel silver so they will not patina.

I think you will be fine as you sharpen the knife. You may just have to file the kick a small bit as you go.

I am glad you like it. Mine has taken over my pocket rotation. :)
Click to expand...

Derrick - showing my ignorance here - what is the "kick" of a knife? Thanks.
 
Remember that on a knife that size, the tip is almost 3 inches from the kick.
So to drop the tip 0.1", you only need to take about 0.016" off the kick (1/6th as much).

You will hardly be able to notice any effect such a small amount will have on the spring, if any.

The red circled part is the kick.

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I was hoping it would be steel, but it didn't help me much.

One thing I forgot to mention is the extra heft the weight of the bolsters give. It feels good.
 
Thanks, Black Mamba.

I have a knife where the tip of the blade rides a bit high and I can catch my fingers on it. So it seems filing down the kick would be a solution. Now all I need is the file...
 
Andy, sand paper wrapped around a popsickle stick would be even better than a file, something around 120 grit.
And go slooooooowly, and check often for how much it dropped the tip. You can't put metal back on . . .
 
Excellent - thanks Jeff. I do have sandpaper and popsicle sticks. And I'll definitely go slowly. I'll also practice on a knife I don't care all that much about first...
 
Andya27 said:
Excellent - thanks Jeff. I do have sandpaper and popsicle sticks. And I'll definitely go slowly. I'll also practice on a knife I don't care all that much about first...
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I've used coffee cups and my sharpmaker stones a well. With my two madisons, it took about 5 strokes on the rougher stones to drop the tip noticeably, and the backspring hardly moved at all
 
black mamba said:
Andy, sand paper wrapped around a popsickle stick would be even better than a file, something around 120 grit.
And go slooooooowly, and check often for how much it dropped the tip. You can't put metal back on . . .
Click to expand...

good advice! Once it is gone, it is too late!
 
Good infor on the "kick". That never occurred to me. Goes to show you that folks that tear apart their knives learn a few things.
 
Quick update, patience pays off when filing a kick. I just spent a half hour sharpening out a rather large nick. I wouldn't file the kick at all until the tip actually protrudes from the handle - basically what Derrick said. :eek:
 
Okay, just got the Madison. I love this thing, and will be doing a small review shortly, if anyone is interested. But, I had a couple questions with this knife.

Now, about right in the middle of the length of the blade on the edge, the knife is getting a good dent due to hitting the back spring when closing. When I look at the kick, it seems almost barely extrudes past the cutting edge, if any. And that causes the edge to hit the middle of the back spring in the raised section inside, and causing the dent. Its as if the kick needs to be a bit larger. I imagine sharpening it over time will get rid of this, but i don't really want to start removing steel so much already. I hope Im explaining this right. Is there anything I can do? Can the back spring be shaved a bit in the middle where it is raised?

Second, on the bolster, you can faintly see the pin for the pivot coming through. Its as if the pin and the bolster need to be just a small bit blended together better. I was thinking maybe polishing the bolster will blend it, but I don't want to hurt the knife at all, as its expensive, and I don't really have the tools to do a perfect job, unless I can get by with rubbing it with some metal polish or something like that, but I don't know if that will work. Again, anything I can do for this?

Thanks guys, I really REALLY love this knife.

Dave
 
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