6lb axe / RIVETING DISCUSSION ON PROUD HAFTS!!

How do you go about recessing that wedge mate? Sounds like you need the right tool for the job as it's a pretty narrow window? Is it a matter of having the prefect sized drift?
 
A17-It is slightly easier to pull the haft when proud. But when splitting, dont you think it might be easier to cut flush and avoid damaging the haft, that make you have to pull the haft ?
KiwiBloke-both profiles work.
S.P. I have to ask, why is it that almost all American axe hafts from about 1750 until about 3 years ago were cut flat? Also why did GB cut flat 25 years ago and now (I was just told, but I dont know for myself) that they make the hafts proud? Sounds like a trend thing to me.
 
Square_peg said:
in my opinion this is the ultimate hang.
Click to expand...

Opinion respected. I will certainly be giving this a go.

The thing is we are in another league to your average house owner that has 1 splitting axe somewhere in the shed. In our time we will all acquire numerous axes and perform numerous hangs so why not keep it interesting for ourselves and try different methods. Who knows maybe you do like it better then the norm but you never know unless you give it a go. You can always hang the next one like you use to.

And what's one axe hung the way that another bloke likes it?! Hell, if you aren't fond of it at least you have something for them to swing when they visit ;)
 
Old Axeman said:
Also why did GB cut flat 25 years ago and now (I was just told, but I dont know for myself) that they make the hafts proud? Sounds like a trend thing to me.
Click to expand...

Hey Axeman here is todays product by GB. This is one of their smaller axes the 'small hatchet' as an example from the Forest Axe line but they all look like this on the top.

CSUPgxs.jpg


and just to make you really sick.. here is their Splitting Maul from their Splitting Axe line..also all are proud.

IdSSLcL.jpg


Disclaimer: I do not own these pictures I have simply used them from https://www.gransforsbruk.com/en/products/ for educational purposes. No copyright infringement intended.
 

At the 5 minutes 40 seconds mark of this video about GB, Gabriel Branby who owned the company from 1985 - 2012 says that when the company stopped producing the vintage GB axe with the paint and grinded look and started producing what we now know as modern GB axes it is then that the company really took off. I believe from this moment onward they were making proud axes. In some cases this was 2 decades ago.

Here is some information from their website about the changing of axes over time:

"Gränsfors Bruk has always kept a step ahead of its copiers and driven the development of new models. Almost all the information available on axes and axe design was studied. Old axes with different appearances and functions were analysed, practical tests were carried out with a wide range of axes and many old axe forgers and axe users were interviewed – always with a view to staying a step ahead of competitors and leading the way in axe knowledge and product development. Without the many thousands of hours spent amassing knowledge in our professional field, it would have been difficult to make the decisions on change and investment that followed.

As well as providing a solid foundation for the company, the accrued knowledge also resulted in The Axe Book, which now accompanies every axe sold by Gränsfors, and the Axe Museum, which has proved a goldmine for product development ideas. In the 1990s, Gränsfors Bruk started working with independent experts and many of the heavily copied models were quickly replaced with new models offering better design and function. None of the eight models available in 1987 were still around by 1990. The Swedish Carving Axe was produced in collaboration with craftsman Wille Sundqvist and others in 1994. In 1995, Gränsfors Bruk developed and launched the Hunter’s Axe, which was consciously made so different from other axes that the design was able to be protected under intellectual property law. The Hunter’s Axe was named an ‘Excellent Swedish Design’ in 1995. That same year is when Gränsfors Bruk started selling its axes with a 20 Year Product Guarantee. In 1996, Gränsfors Bruk launched a new range of broad axes and other tools for log-building. 1997 saw the arrival of a new, smaller Carpenter’s Axe and the earlier version, which had been copied, went out of production. By this time, eight new models had been introduced since 1990.

The whole range of axes for splitting wood was replaced in 1997-1998 and a brand new type of splitting axe and maul was launched, with a steel collar to protect the handle. The Swedish National Testing and Research Institute declared Gränsfors Bruk’s new Large Splitting Axe ‘Best in Test’. 1998 also marked the appearance of the American Felling Axe, developed jointly with US canoe builder and woodsman Geoffrey Burke. The Gränsfors Mini Hatchet came out in 2000 and was an instant success. A range of sharpening tools was launched in 2003, as well as the Gränsfors Small Splitting Axe. Over the period 2000-2006, various replicas of historic axes from the Iron Age and Viking Age were also developed, under the title of Ancient Northern European Axes. Now they are simply called Gränsfors Bruk’s Ancient Axes. In 2008 came the Outdoor Axe in partnership with survival expert Lars Fält. The Outdoor Axe is now protected by a patent.

Over the past 25 years of Gränsfors Bruk’s history, product development has been critical to the company’s survival, an ongoing process that must never stop."

Maybe one reason for american axes being sold now with proud hafts is partly due to GB's success. Like they said they have been copied in the past is that what is happening now?
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: A17
Had a look at my rough and tumble splitter. It's a 5 lb rafting axe, 36". I've split about 25 to 30 cords of wood with it.

The amount I left was higher than I usually do, about 1/4". Nothing deliberate I can remember in why.

It'll probly never come loose, because of the pin.

The tape has protected the haft pretty well, I replace it pretty often, but it's been chunked a few times.

Not sure what will be the end of this one, but it don't owe me anything by now.

RKJ6of7.jpg


Cfjt81e.jpg


qNwK6b0.jpg


Edit to add one more thing, I looked at a bunch of other chopping axes hung a little proud, varying from 1/8" to 3/16". Not a lick of damage anywhere on those.
As would be expected
 
Last edited:
mule, if I leave mine that much above the head that's the way mine starts looking, in way less time than 30 cords. Quite a poll on that splitter. Is it heat treated? A 5 lb. would be light for a splitter with my oak. Also, you guys have different wood
which allows you to do different things. I doubt I'll ever split cedar for posts or a bench. Juniper is all I have that would
work for that and I rarely cut any of that wood. But I enjoy seeing it done. DM
 
David Martin said:
mule, if I leave mine that much above the head that's the way mine starts looking, in way less time than 30 cords. Quite a poll on that splitter. Is it heat treated? A 5 lb. would be light for a splitter with my oak. Also, you guys have different wood
which allows you to do different things. I doubt I'll ever split cedar for posts or a bench. Juniper is all I have that would
work for that and I rarely cut any of that wood. But I enjoy seeing it done. DM
Click to expand...

Yes, that poll is really hard.

Any firewood I split is oak, madrone, or Doug fir. Madrone is prone to splitting off at any old angle it wants, and causes more damage than the others, for or aft.
 
KiwiBloke said:
How do you go about recessing that wedge mate? Sounds like you need the right tool for the job as it's a pretty narrow window? Is it a matter of having the prefect sized drift?
Click to expand...

It's a matter of having a keen sense for where the wedge is going to absolutely stop. That's just experience. Stop driving it just before that spot. Trim the wedge off flush with the proud haft. Then use a wide flat punch to drive it that last 1/8". I use a scrap of old leaf spring as that punch. Some guys use the edge of an old file. But you could make do with a whittled down piece of an old double bit handle or some other piece of hardwood.
 
Old Axeman said:
S.P. I have to ask, why is it that almost all American axe hafts from about 1750 until about 3 years ago were cut flat? Also why did GB cut flat 25 years ago and now (I was just told, but I dont know for myself) that they make the hafts proud? Sounds like a trend thing to me.
Click to expand...

I can't say, Old Axeman. Maybe it is a trend. Or maybe they just didn't think of it.

But the trick I learned about driving the wedge into the protruding haft was from an old Pacific Northwest logging book. Men in the NW were doing this 100 years ago. Maybe our extreme humidity changes inspired it. 'Summer lumber' is something I've had to deal with my entire career. Dried out, twisted checked stuff happens every year. Happens to axe handles, too. And it hasn't been as much of a problem for me since I started using Swel-lock or DPG and leaving my hafts prouds.

I don't do it with my hammer handles because it would interfere with pulling nails.
 
Last edited:
Square_peg said:
And it hasn't been as much of a problem for me since I started using Swel-lock or DPG and leaving my hafts prouds.
Click to expand...

I would love to try Swel-lock but we don't get it in NZ unfortunately. I have just put some BLO on the wedge and in the kerf before driving in. Haven't heard of DPG before is that essentially Swel-lock when you add some water to it? (I was checking out another thread you mentioned it). I found this product but it says it is designed for use in odor-sensitive applications such as fragrances and cosmetics.. is this the same thing you would use? Appreciate it if you had a quick look i'd love to give it a go - https://www.lotusoils.co.nz/lotus-oils-webstore/raw-materials/additives/di-propylene-glycol-100ml

What's the go with people using wood glue? My understanding is it's not necessary if the hang is done right but companies like GB still do it as does Liam Hoffman and I am sure many other makers. Just an assurance thing for makers?
 
Agent_H said:
846-DEC1-D-C7-D2-4706-BC5-D-FE29917-AD3-EF.jpg

Cross wedges :)
Click to expand...
I call those step wedges. Are they called cross wedges in some places?

Square_peg said:
Maybe our extreme humidity changes inspired it.
Click to expand...
We have the exact opposite here in the NE. Very humid summers and really dry winters.
And do you remember the title of the book you referenced?
Square_peg said:
But the trick I learned about driving the wedge into the protruding haft was from an old Pacific Northwest logging book
Click to expand...
I think it would be interesting to read some accounts of it from back in the day. I haven't come across any as of yet.
I find it interesting that, for me anyway, even though I'm trying to just share my opinion i still want secretly to change people's minds. I know i can't because mine can't be changed! Haha. I've got a dozen hung proud and time will tell for me. I still prefer , like the majority at least, cutting them flush as the manufacturers used to do. Great conversation though! Thanks to all that are chpping in.
 
My hardware store has some of those Gransfor Burks axes they are offered for 15 saw bucks.? DM
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top