All's fair in love and SNARK!!

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worldwood said:
Glad your getting better, Everyone over in this house went thru some sort of 2-3 day virus in the last several days as well. ROUGH! Glad it played its role and got the hell on.


Oh and it looks like i wont NOT have a BK9 for much longer at all :D
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I'm getting there but It'll probably be another 2-3 days. Doc's got me on 1000mg of amoxicillin every 12 hours and it seems to be helping.

Someone emailed me the other day because they saw a thread I started showing of my RTAK II when I first got it wanting to know where I got it from. I told him but also told him I'd sell him mine. That'll halfway pay for WW's new BK9 which will get me his LHB and SP8.
 
granitestateofmind said:
Considering for a moment the hairless primates, is this a self-loathing death wish, or a genocidal one? ;)
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Since I don't subscribe to the theory that we are evolved from primates, the question you pose has no relevance to my statement.

However, if you do believe in evolution, my answer to you would be..... 42

Doc
 
So I want to strip my BK10, 16, and maybe a 7 I have yet to aquire. One ounce of etchant is enough to do the logos on three knives, right? Never stripped a laser engraved Becker so acid etching the logo is new to me.

Another question. Where, besides ordering it online, might I find etchant?
 
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Yes it takes a few drops at a time. An ounce will last a long time if you use a syringe.
 
james terrio said:
I have not, but it sure looks interesting. :)



Correct.



Nope! It doesn't have to return to its original state to be considered tough, it just shouldn't break. A bent blade coming back to straight is a function of its hardness. Given the same geometry, an annealed bar of steel XYZ will bend and stay bent... a properly hardened one will bend and spring back to true. Again, that's a function of hardness = resistance to deformation.

Whether or not the blade bends at all has very little to do with either hardness or toughness, but depends almost entirely on its cross section/geometry. A 1/16" blade at either 40Rc or 62Rc will flex quite easily... a 3/8" blade of the same steel and hardness will resist flexing very much. For more reading on that, look up "modulous of elasticity".

It's easy to get confuzzled by all this, because the terms are thrown around willy-nilly by advertising gurus and self-proclaimed egg-spurts... and are sometimes mixed up with a healthy dose of unmitigated BS. But for purposes of clarity and actually getting a grip on how/why steel fails, it's important to understand what these properties really mean.

P.S. don't take my word for it on this stuff, look it up. NOT on a knife forum... there's way too much conflicting nonsense to wade through. Ask an engineer :)
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Right when i think im getting a handle on this stuff you go and confuse me :D. ill be looking up "modulous of elasticity" but then i might be really confused LMAO

bigghoss said:
I'm getting there but It'll probably be another 2-3 days. Doc's got me on 1000mg of amoxicillin every 12 hours and it seems to be helping.

Someone emailed me the other day because they saw a thread I started showing of my RTAK II when I first got it wanting to know where I got it from. I told him but also told him I'd sell him mine. That'll halfway pay for WW's new BK9 which will get me his LHB and SP8.
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Yea buddy :D The LHB and SP8 are all yours!!!

At first my wife said "NOOOO!!!! dont get rid of the splitter (what she calls the SP8) But when i got that ULU in she really liked that, she wanted it for the kitchen but i wanted to keep it in its great condition in case i could trade it out, so i told her if I traded/sold the SP8 she could have the ULU for chopping ribs/chicken quarters and such. then she was happy to let me get rid of the SP8... She only used the splitter on 1 or 2 logs each time we were out anyway, and the Ulu she would use a lot more often. SO now the Ulu is sitting in a drawer in the kitchen for her to use as she wishes.

And im on my way to another BK9 :D Thanks Bighoss!!
 
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bigghoss said:
So I want to strip my BK10, 16, and maybe a 7 I have yet to aquire. One ounce of etchant is enough to do the logos on three knives, right? Never stripped a laser engraved Becker so acid etching the logo is new to me.

Another question. Where, besides ordering it online, might I find etchant?
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Radio shack, for the PCB etchant... I believe anyway. i never got it myself i just think i remember reading it can be found at radio shack.
 
worldwood said:
Right when i think im getting a handle on this stuff you go and confuse me :D.
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Well that's the whole problem... one guy makes an honest mistake based on poor information or a WAG ("toughness = springiness", which simply isn't true) and someone else runs with it and repeats it as gospel. The cycle of BS repeats ad infinitum and can be really hard to counter. Once folks get a bad idea or wrong "information" in their head because "so-and-so" said it, they tend to want to stick with it.

Believe me, it happens in ShopTalk all the time, and it's why I encourage people to corroborate this stuff for themselves - preferably from sources other than people who buy and sell knives. Don't believe me, I'm no metallurgist... just a dumb guy who makes sparks for a living :p
 
james terrio said:
Don't believe me, I'm no metallurgist... just a dumb guy who makes sparks for a living :p
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HA!
I resemble that remark.
Oh wait, I don't EVEN make a living at it!
Listen to that guy above. Or somebody. :)
 
james terrio said:
Well that's the whole problem... one guy makes an honest mistake based on poor information or a WAG ("toughness = springiness", which simply isn't true) and someone else runs with it and repeats it as gospel. The cycle of BS repeats ad infinitum and can be really hard to counter. Once folks get a bad idea or wrong "information" in their head because "so-and-so" said it, they tend to want to stick with it.

Believe me, it happens in ShopTalk all the time, and it's why I encourage people to corroborate this stuff for themselves - preferably from sources other than people who buy and sell knives. Don't believe me, I'm no metallurgist... just a dumb guy who makes sparks for a living :p
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Yea i can understand that, and appreciate the correct info for sure.

Several months back I talked with a knife maker (well emailed back and forth) and was told you didnt want to take D2 over 58-59 HRC. ( we were talking about a knife with 4-5" blade) So me being a noob compared to him I took at as gospel... Until i seen a dozier first hand ran at 60-61 HRC. SO i did a bunch of reading and found that guy was just not right.

I agree you always want to check info from multiple sources.

Thats one reason despite what i read i try and test different steels myself. even if im told there is no real noticeable difference between 2 different steels, id still rather find this out myself. Like before i started really liking 52100, i read 1095 wasnt much different and you wouldnt be able to notice any difference in regular use... Which is just dead wrong from all my personal testing. But if i took what i read as gospel, from what i thought at the time was a trust worthy source, i would have never known the truth in my own use had i not ran tests myself.

Im greatly appreciative for all the knowledge i get from you guys! Very thankful you guys are here and willing to share your knowledge with us!
 
Got a question for y'all. Any of you guys know any method to dissolve or remove a patina WITHOUT actually having to polish or sand the blade?
Possible scenario: I put the blade in a bath of some chemical, or even better a product you have around the house, leave it in for a while, take out the blade and when you rub it lightly with a piece of cloth it would just come off? Or does something like that simply not exist?
 
I stripped the patina off my 15 by accident with just a few scrubs with a scotchbrite pad..
 
LeeBower said:
I stripped the patina off my 15 by accident with just a few scrubs with a scotchbrite pad..
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Yeah, but that's an abrasive. The thing is that I've got a couple of old razors that had tons of rust and patina. Rust removal went somewhat good (still work in progress) but the chemicals used to remove the rust darkened some of the blades. These blades however have gold wash on 'em, and polishing compound or any type of (even light) abrasive takes the gold wash straight off.
 
I have had Eezox remove some patina accidentally just cleaning a blade with it. It wasnt my intention though. I sprayed it on and wiped it down to clean it up... and some of the patina went with it. But it wasnt removed completely... Again i wasnt trying to remove the patina this way i was just coating my blade but it did clean off some of the patina. It may work if you use it with that intention but i cant be certain.

I just use steel wool when i want to remove a patina. That has always worked for me.
 
Galeocerdoshark said:
Got a question for y'all. Any of you guys know any method to dissolve or remove a patina WITHOUT actually having to polish or sand the blade?
Possible scenario: I put the blade in a bath of some chemical, or even better a product you have around the house, leave it in for a while, take out the blade and when you rub it lightly with a piece of cloth it would just come off? Or does something like that simply not exist?
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"Bar Keeper's Friend" will take it right off. It's a cleaning product that's been around forever. You can get liquid or powder. I use the liquid. Just squirt some on a rag and wipe the patina right off.
 
Not having an account with the auction site and paypal really sucks some times.

I need a black walnut board, 1 board, thats AT LEAST 2 feet long, 6 inches wide and 1" thick.
 
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worldwood said:
Yea buddy :D The LHB and SP8 are all yours!!!

At first my wife said "NOOOO!!!! dont get rid of the splitter (what she calls the SP8) But when i got that ULU in she really liked that, she wanted it for the kitchen but i wanted to keep it in its great condition in case i could trade it out, so i told her if I traded/sold the SP8 she could have the ULU for chopping ribs/chicken quarters and such. then she was happy to let me get rid of the SP8... She only used the splitter on 1 or 2 logs each time we were out anyway, and the Ulu she would use a lot more often. SO now the Ulu is sitting in a drawer in the kitchen for her to use as she wishes.

And im on my way to another BK9 :D Thanks Bighoss!!
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Yeah I'm looking forward to it. I doubt either will dethrone the King but I've been wanting an SP8 for over a decade and I've had more than a passing interest in the LHB. I'm going to strip what's left of the coatings off, make 'em purdy. Well maybe not purdy but more visually appealing. I'm just going to get them dirty again anyway. I stripped my BK9 and was going for a polished look when I remembered what a PITA it is to keep it looking that way.
 
The SP8 might not dethrone the king chopping.... But when it comes to batoning i would always put the king down quick for the SP8. The grind and thickness just splits wood like a champ! The sawback makes you need a good hardwood baton but its still a champ splitting wood!!

And yea man keeping a knife looking pretty and polished is way more work than its worth. I stopped going after the satin blades for my users as im just going to mess it up anyway.
 
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