Anyone been with any strippers lately?

number41 said:
Was at 19dps and lowered the edge angle more... haven't measured it yet but I reckon its gonna be at 16.5. It cuts like a razor.... I will make a video
Click to expand...

Cool, thank you for going to the trouble. The HR2 with the corrugated bevel actually has what is overall a convex shaped grind, so it should be a cutting machine with good edge geometry. I've been eyeing another one for myself before they pull them from the storefront. What did you do the finish with on that and can you elaborate on the sheath screws in place of eyelets?
 
Father & Son Traditional Sharpening said:
Cool, thank you for going to the trouble. The HR2 with the corrugated bevel actually has what is overall a convex shaped grind, so it should be a cutting machine with good edge geometry. I've been eyeing another one for myself before they pull them from the storefront. What did you do the finish with on that and can you elaborate on the sheath screws in place of eyelets?
Click to expand...
Yes good idea... I bought a second one.
 
Father & Son Traditional Sharpening said:
Cool, thank you for going to the trouble. The HR2 with the corrugated bevel actually has what is overall a convex shaped grind, so it should be a cutting machine with good edge geometry. I've been eyeing another one for myself before they pull them from the storefront. What did you do the finish with on that and can you elaborate on the sheath screws in place of eyelets?
Click to expand...
Father & Son Traditional Sharpening Father & Son Traditional Sharpening
 
Last edited:
So when you guys strip the coating off, do you leave the handles on?

Do you tape off the handle so that no part of the handle is exposed, only metal exposed?

Will stripper harm G10 or micarta?
 
cutchu said:
So when you guys strip the coating off, do you leave the handles on?

Do you tape off the handle so that no part of the handle is exposed, only metal exposed?

Will stripper harm G10 or micarta?
Click to expand...

Both materials are pretty much completely resistant to stripper, even the Res-c seems to be unaffected.

The concern I would have mainly is the stripper remaining in the handle material but even that is unlikely to a large extent. I have noticed leftover smell of methylene chloride on knife handles that were stripped by others. The stripper I use is completely non-toxic and I feel little concern over remaining stripper.
 
(1) I prefer screws for maintenance. (2) the rivets are easy to drill out, and spacers/screws are cheap. (3) it's easier to sand/polish butt and tang when the scales are off - so I take them off.
 
ferider said:
(1) I prefer screws for maintenance. (2) the rivets are easy to drill out, and spacers/screws are cheap. (3) it's easier to sand/polish butt and tang when the scales are off - so I take them off.
Click to expand...

That is popular when stripping but it leaves something to be desired personally. There's a reason Busse does not use these fasteners as it would be easy for them to use this method. Even older Busse that used what appears to be solid pins are in fact bolts that have been torqued and loctited and then had the heads sanded off to make them maintennance free and rock solid. They went away from that method for whatever reason and seem to have done so because of the strength of the flared tubing rivets being superior. Is this an issue for most use? Probably not but I say that because it is a thing worth considering.

Ask yourself how you see using the knife in question before doing such things to your knife as you cannot have the tubing reinstalled under warranty after you've drilled them out. I don't even know if they would reinstall if you paid to have it done but I've wondered about this myself as I do want to remove the handles before stripping to make the polishing more straightforward. One can simply buy a set of Scotchbrite hand pads and hand sander block for them and just go lengthwise on the blade. I like to put nails trough the talon holes into something like 2x4 to anchor the piece so it won't move.
 
Father & Son Traditional Sharpening said:
That is popular when stripping but it leaves something to be desired personally. There's a reason Busse does not use these fasteners as it would be easy for them to use this method. Even older Busse that used what appears to be solid pins are in fact bolts that have been torqued and loctited and then had the heads sanded off to make them maintennance free and rock solid. They went away from that method for whatever reason and seem to have done so because of the strength of the flared tubing rivets being superior. Is this an issue for most use? Probably not but I say that because it is a thing worth considering.
Click to expand...

I doubt the flared tubes are there for mechanical reasons. Just cheaper to install and support than standoffs and screws. I for sure will never break three quarter inch stainless stand-offs or the 10-32 screws that I use (with loctite, of course). And some Busse butts have shapes that make sanding with scales installed difficult for me. To each his own, I guess.
 
The real question I have regarding drilling out the tubes : what sort of material is the current form of tubing made from? It seems the older stuff from over a decade ago may have been some sort of brass like materail. The new stuff seems to be something like soft stainless perhaps. Trying to find a suitable drill bit ...

ferider said:
I doubt the flared tubes are there for mechanical reasons. Just cheaper to install and support than standoffs and screws. I for sure will never break three quarter inch stainless stand-offs or the 10-32 screws that I use. And some Busse butts have shapes that make sanding difficult for me. To each his own, I guess.
Click to expand...

Perhaps, I seem to remember something being said about vibration transfer as well. There must be a reason besides cost but who knows ultimately, unless Jerry wants to share his rational behind it we'll never know for sure.
 
My Banned SHBM.
This knife had a badly sharpened asymmetric bevel and was a real ugly duckling. Ban transformed it into one of the best looking Busse's I have ever seen. It really is "Scary sharp"!

 
Father & Son Traditional Sharpening said:
The real question I have regarding drilling out the tubes : what sort of material is the current form of tubing made from? It seems the older stuff from over a decade ago may have been some sort of brass like materail. The new stuff seems to be something like soft stainless perhaps. Trying to find a suitable drill bit ...



Perhaps, I seem to remember something being said about vibration transfer as well. There must be a reason besides cost but who knows ultimately, unless Jerry wants to share his rational behind it we'll never know for sure.
Click to expand...

Looks like brass when drilling (Axe Hammer and classic MMD), but feels harder. Jerry is smart :) With the tubes, he can avoid a separate scale business, people complaining about no holes in the tangs, even for the smaller knives, and - compared to other screwed knives I have - with the tubes the scales appear "vaccuum sealed", no rust as I've seen on other expensive but screwed fixed blades.
 
Steven65 said:
My Banned SHBM.
This knife had a badly sharpened asymmetric bevel and was a real ugly duckling. Ban transformed it into one of the best looking Busse's I have ever seen. It really is "Scary sharp"!

Click to expand...

Beautiful. Banned edges are terrifying. I don’t think it’s possible to describe how sharp Ban Tang takes a convex, must be experienced. That SHBM is perfect.
 
Battle Grade BM. Stripped with the scales off - then I built these scales from scratch from a camo phenolic. Used a tracer bit on a router to duplicate the scallops on both ends.
The tubes appeared to be aluminum. (the original mags from this knife now live on my HHFSH)
Finished in brownells oxpho blue. The scales have had their first drink of mineral oil, but already a little splotchy.
20220621_200101.jpg20220621_200104.jpg
 
ferider said:
I doubt the flared tubes are there for mechanical reasons. Just cheaper to install and support than standoffs and screws. I for sure will never break three quarter inch stainless stand-offs or the 10-32 screws that I use (with loctite, of course). And some Busse butts have shapes that make sanding with scales installed difficult for me. To each his own, I guess.
Click to expand...
Did you use blue loctite for your MMD? That’s what I used.
 
Thanks for a great knife crufflers crufflers . 1st Pass:

i-H6ZkfgG-X3.jpg


i-H5NmrQM-X3.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top