Completely agree, my bad. I really need to get to bed...
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Are you serious Buck?
- Thread starter Samon
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I don't know what $7 dollars bought in 1975 but $30 today buys you a kershaw skyline,leek,zing or a rat 1, utilitac ,tenacious,voyager, or most victorinox.
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thats true last store I went to the buck 110 was $69. but at my walmart in gilroy it was $37.
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So, getting back on point, what conclusions can we draw as to the veracity of the OP's observations? I have yet to read of any quantifiable statement as to what constitutes 'side to side' play, as well as 'up and down' play. Is it possible that the OP's definition of blade play is unrealistic? Who can know. All we really know for certain, is that the OP is not satisfied with his purchase, which is a shame IMO. I do however have complete faith in Buck to make it right.
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I'm sure that most people living in the real world, would use the photographs as the emperical evidence sought by those trying to pick fly s..t out of pepper with semantics. My latest 110 locks like a bank vault and so should the OP's, if not, return it.
This is possible, but I'm a normal dude. I took those pictures with light force applied to the tip to show the bolster/blade gap i.e blade play. It is enough to make a light sound during the finger tip grip test and when placed flat on a surface it is clearly ammount of blade play and not me bending the blade. There is enough blade play to put any knife collector off, not just an enthusiast like myself!
This is my thinking, and I did my best to take clear and obvious pictures for everyone to look at and chip in with genuine comments..
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Mine locked up tight too, until it was used. The knife has a tiny pivot pin, that's not even threaded. I just can't see how that's even competes with these threaded ones that are much larger.
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This is the issue! and I believe it's because the bolsters and pivot pin are made from brass. If the pivot pin was a torq screw like the modern knives have, it could be tightened over a few weeks of use or was made from stainless steel and peened over wider so it can't just slip back into the bolster and develope play.
I won't comment on the blade style/shape as it works for most but I put it to a task that looking back now wasn't in the knife's best interest. I would however say if the blade was something like 1095 it would be considerabley tougher and more practical as a general purpose knife and you wouldn't have to be precious with using it hard!
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Well, my problem with the 110 mainly is the weight. If I am going to carry that much weight I want a tougher blade and knife.
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I have sharpened 3 Buck 110s for people that use them on multiple deer every season. The blades are all solid with no wobble, nor do they release under pressure on the spine. The oldest one is ten years old. IMO the OP either has hulk hands or awful luck. Buck 110, even with it's weight, is still an incredible bang for the ... buck..
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sucks about the blade tip!! is it actual blade play or is the lock moving as well. I have a knock off of that exact knife that has some play up the back lock, and after reading i stabbed it into my plywood desk and said to myself.. "theres no way this tip will break!!" so i gave a little wiggle and low and behold my knife now looks like yours even more!!! would take a pic but knife is at work maybe next time!!
Sounds to me like your expectations of a cheap $30 knife are just too much.
Smacking the back of any locking knife is generally considered abuse and just about all will fail from it. I remember reading a thread where someone else had this expectation and even $50-100 Spydercos and Benchmades failed the test. Folding knives just aren't made to do this.
Randomly stabbing things with any knife, much less a folder, is abusive as well. A wood fence makes even less sense. Just because the surface has rot on it doesn't mean there isn't hard wood underneath. And because it is a fence you also have nails/screws/hardware to worry about. Sounds to me like you got a new knife and were a little overjoyed so you started to look for reasons to use it. We've all been there. Next time, try to be lest stabby.
Obviously pictures can't really do justice when it comes to blade play but given your previous expectations of use of the knife I would again have to say it is only a $30 knife. If you want something that locks up tight, cand stab anything, has an edge that lasts for a long time, and can be smacked around like a fixed blade you are going to have to spend a heck of a lot more than that.
Side note. Aren't locking knives prohibitted in the UK in some way? I remember seeing some Spydercos on closeout somewhere that were UK versions with no lock and my understanding was that was a requirement there.
Smacking the back of any locking knife is generally considered abuse and just about all will fail from it. I remember reading a thread where someone else had this expectation and even $50-100 Spydercos and Benchmades failed the test. Folding knives just aren't made to do this.
Randomly stabbing things with any knife, much less a folder, is abusive as well. A wood fence makes even less sense. Just because the surface has rot on it doesn't mean there isn't hard wood underneath. And because it is a fence you also have nails/screws/hardware to worry about. Sounds to me like you got a new knife and were a little overjoyed so you started to look for reasons to use it. We've all been there. Next time, try to be lest stabby.
Obviously pictures can't really do justice when it comes to blade play but given your previous expectations of use of the knife I would again have to say it is only a $30 knife. If you want something that locks up tight, cand stab anything, has an edge that lasts for a long time, and can be smacked around like a fixed blade you are going to have to spend a heck of a lot more than that.
Side note. Aren't locking knives prohibitted in the UK in some way? I remember seeing some Spydercos on closeout somewhere that were UK versions with no lock and my understanding was that was a requirement there.
It's the UK Pen knife. You are correct, no locking folding knives are allowed that I know of.
No, this is just misinformation. We can have any knfie that isn't disguised, gravity/spring operated or hidden in things. You will need to provide a decent excuse to why you are carrying anything but a non locking folding 3" on you in public, but it isn't illegal or 'prohibited'.
It may be a $30 knife but once it gets over here and paid all it's taxes etc, it's an $85 knife. I didn't randomly stab anything - I stabbed a rotted fence about 1/5th of an inche to get wood chips from it and have done so with other pocket knives plenty of times before and there were no nails or anything other than wood there.
I understand this is your opinion but it has come across pretty patronising dude. Try spending 2 minutes on google to check UK knife law before passing on these silly notions of prohibited lock knives
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It may be a $30 knife but once it gets over here and paid all it's taxes etc, it's an $85 knife. I didn't randomly stab anything - I stabbed a rotted fence about 1/5th of an inche to get wood chips from it and have done so with other pocket knives plenty of times before and there were no nails or anything other than wood there.
I understand this is your opinion but it has come across pretty patronising dude. Try spending 2 minutes on google to check UK knife law before passing on these silly notions of prohibited lock knives
While I can respect that it costs you more to own one that money doesn't go into the production/performance of the knife. It is still a $30 knife. If you want an $85 knife buy an $85 knife. I don't know what Fallkniven blades go for there but I'd image it is cheaper than we get them here. Maybe look at one of those instead.
I stated pretty plainly that in my opinion you abused a cheap knife and expected too much out of it and stated why. Not sure how that can be seen as patronizing. How should I have said?
I asked a question out of ignorance. I didn't make a statement that could be passed on. I spent a few seconds tacking on a question about it because you obviously know more than me about the subject.
I'm not going to put a micrometer on anything, but I can confirm that I've had 4 Buck lockbacks with noticeable vertical play. 3 of them are recent in the past few years. Those three were perfect out of the box but developed play after bend cutting limbs and saplings. The play developed the way each time. First I felt the lock bar rise under hard cutting pressure. Eventually I got a noticeable "thunk" when putting and taking pressure on/off the blade at the beginning and end of cuts. It's easy to replicate by pulling back on the open blades.
By comparison, my Opinels have been used harder and have no play.
I'm sure Buck is aware of the problem and is working to resolve it.