AX SHARPENING WITH POWER TOOLS

FortyTwoBlades said:
Yeah...I'm not paying for hardness testing to get naysayers to pipe down. They can scream and kick until they're blue in the face and it won't bother me a bit.
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Nobody proposed you pay, nor was I under the impression that you would. Benjamin.

rjdankert said:
I am guessing that you want to know if there is a change, so if any testing is done, then both before and after.


Bob

Edit: :oops: too late.
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Yes. Perhaps on another test;)
 
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It certainly looks sharper and cleaner now FortyTwoBlades. :thumbsup:


Looking forward to the video as well!


When we see axes posted here where there is uniform material taken back that far, is it safe to assume they were at least finished on a belt sander? I mean, I don’t think I could make it look like that reaching back that far with my files (or at least nothing I have sharpened looks quite like that).
 
Agent_H said:
It certainly looks sharper and cleaner now FortyTwoBlades. :thumbsup:


Looking forward to the video as well!


When we see axes posted here where there is uniform material taken back that far, is it safe to assume they were at least finished on a belt sander? I mean, I don’t think I could make it look like that reaching back that far with my files (or at least nothing I have sharpened looks quite like that).
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Thanks! As far as working back that far, it's possible with files under most circumstances. You can also always use sandpaper to do the polishing work after shaping. It just takes forever compared to the belts.
 
junkenstien said:
Is there a reason for the bevelshape?I agree would take 2 forever with a file
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Do you mean the shape of the bit? Or you really do mean the bevel shape? The bit is heavily worn at the toe and so it has a bit of a jutting underbite right now that I'd normally fully correct except that'd put the heel really close to the nail notch and there'd not be as much hardened steel at the heel as I'd like. All it'd do is accelerate using the hatchet up at this point so I left it alone and will use it mostly for work below elbow height so the bit still lands square. If talking about the bevels then it's to blend the bevel into a smoothly rolled convex to increase the ease of penetration and minimize sticking. You can see that sort of beveling done with files by folks who know how to manage the total geometry of their bits--not just the edges. G-pig's axes are a good example of this:

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^I would have definitely ground the edge back into proper position, and you're right, it would have definitely put that nail notch too close to the edge. What you did is certainly better, and can be accounted for mostly with the handle (as I'm sure you know). I think the cleanliness and orientation of the edge itself is one of the biggest neglected areas of "refurbished" axe heads.
 
Yeah the line of the edge I'd be putting on it if it weren't for other factors would put the heel right about where that little vertical smudge on the bevel is, and then the bevel would be riding right up over the notch. So at this point the total useful life of the tool takes priority for me. :D
 
You always have to draw a balance between preserving steel and forming the optimum edge geometry with regard to heel and toe length. It's a compromise. When enough steel remains I always take the heel down a little shorter than the toe - like a slightly closed hang. This makes it easier to finish the bottom of the cut while bucking.

Carving axes are a different creature than felling axes and it's nice to have several shapes available.
 
The bevel shape,maybe a shadow on the picture looked like its thinner by the heel getting thicker towards the toe.very nice trying to learn all I can .thanks for all the info
 
Square_peg said:
You always have to draw a balance between preserving steel and forming the optimum edge geometry with regard to heel and toe length. It's a compromise. When enough steel remains I always take the heel down a little shorter than the toe - like a slightly closed hang. This makes it easier to finish the bottom of the cut while bucking.

Carving axes are a different creature than felling axes and it's nice to have several shapes available.
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Yeah I much prefer a fairly closed set to the bit, with the heel well behind the toe. But in this case I'd have to ruin the hatchet to do that. :D
 
junkenstien said:
The bevel shape,maybe a shadow on the picture looked like its thinner by the heel getting thicker towards the toe.very nice trying to learn all I can .thanks for all the info
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Just the reflection off the convex surface. The toe is a little "cheekier" because I didn't want to keep grinding back into it anymore than it already is.
 
Finally got the chance to piece together the footage and it's exporting now. As soon as I have it up on YouTube I'll post it here. :)
 
Nice! So it can be done!

Thank you FortyTwoBlades for the video of the work being done. That takes more time to edit than it does to film sometimes.

Are you happy with how it turned out?

Great work:thumbsup:
 
Quite pleased and now it'll just be a matter of deciding what sort of handle to plop on it and getting rid of some of the little deformations along the underside of the bit, top/bottom of the eye, etc. :)
 
Agent_H said:
Nice! So it can be done!

Thank you FortyTwoBlades for the video of the work being done. That takes more time to edit than it does to film sometimes.

Are you happy with how it turned out?

Great work:thumbsup:
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Take this however you want but, what?
How is this different from the Hoffman video?
What has been proven in your mind? I do not like Benjamin whatsoever and even I had no doubt he could reshape metal with belts and power equipment.
If the point of this was to prove that it is safe for the edge/temper to use belts to re profile and sharpen how has this been shown?

Twas nice you gave away an ax to be "showcased" seems to have missed the mark on evidence.

How about sending it off to someone who has plenty of experience with half hatchets and happens to have one or two of that model to do an edge holding comparison?

How about it?
 
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