bark river vs Fällkniven

How is the edge holding with the steel sandwich currently used in the Falknivens, the S-1 in particular?

Though I carp about rust problems, the BRKT A2 edge holding is great and it gets retardedly sharp with a strop.

And then there were Cliff's reviews which had the F-1 tip snap off when digging out a 2x4, and I think the H-1 lost the tip as well. I just don't see that happening with the Gameskeeper razor/prybar, and not for lack of trying on my part.

Which of the two companies warranties a Barkkniven, and what are the terms? I'm drooling over an S-1 with green canvas micarta, but I'm worried about the consequences of playing Cliff Jr.
 
starboard said:
How is the edge holding with the steel sandwich currently used in the Falknivens, the S-1 in particular?

Though I carp about rust problems, the BRKT A2 edge holding is great and it gets retardedly sharp with a strop.

And then there were Cliff's reviews which had the F-1 tip snap off when digging out a 2x4, and I think the H-1 lost the tip as well. I just don't see that happening with the Gameskeeper razor/prybar, and not for lack of trying on my part.
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The laminated VG-10 used in most Fällknivens holds an edge well, and is easy to get sharp. The grinds are convex, so stropping is the way to deal with them, too.

As for the tips, they're pretty strong, but yes, you can snap them off, and it's been done with some blades. Some of those may have had flaws from the factory, though. And I'm not convinced that "digging" in wood with the tip is somehow brilliant or ever needed. As far as I know, Cliff hasn't reviewed the Gameskeeper, so... you might be surprised. You could always try it yourself to see how it goes.

But if you ask me, if you just want a knife to play Cliff Jr with, then don't get a Fällkniven. And don't get a Bark River, either. They are tough knives, but not that tough, and they're intended more for actual reasonable knife work instead of toying around prying holes in wood for the sheer pleasure of it. ;)
 
There is a way of making a hole with the F1 and S1, use it as a chisel, dont pry, just pound it in and wiggle it out and hammer it in again.
 
nodh said:
There is a way of making a hole with the F1 and S1, use it as a chisel, dont pry, just pound it in and wiggle it out and hammer it in again.
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Is it worth it? I kinda look down on my own knives because I wouldn't try to use them as a chisel like that. But when do I need it? The only thing I do is grabbing the knife with one hand and clapping on it flat with the other hand, avoiding to hit on the hard grip and only hitting the holding hand instead.

Another question to those who use their knives in cold environment: How big is the difference in comfort when comparing kraton vs full tang + scales?

Sorry, it's kinda OT.
 
One feature, on most "plastic" handled Fallknivens, is that the tang comes out the other end, to beat on. So you could use it as a chisel. It is even described in a survival handbook by the Swedish survival expert Lars Fält how to fell a big tree with a small knife. How cold does it have to be before your tongue sticks to metal? I do not have any empiric tests on how "cold" a knife handle feels depending on material. However the F1 was initially developed as a pure survival knife, not meant for the open market there were no "nice looking" considerations. It was function, function, function.
The early F1 did not have the tang come out.
There are several ways to increase "curring power" on an F1.
Batoning: Hold the edge onto what you are to cut and pound on the spine with some semi soft material (not steel on steel). Much safer than chopping.
Perforating: Hold the tip of the knife on to a tree, the blade horizontal, and hammer on the back of the handle with something hard. Pound it in an inch, wiggle it out, move an inch to the side, repeat around the tree until it comes down. If you do it right the knife will not be damaged at all. There are no bending needed whatsoever.
 
DocArnie said:
Another question to those who use their knives in cold environment: How big is the difference in comfort when comparing kraton vs full tang + scales?
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It is very big. If the other knife has a full exposed tang, a finger guard and a choil for "choking up on" in precise work, the difference is enormous - because this means your hand and fingers will be on ice cold metal all of the time while cutting something that requires precision and therefore the use of the choil. Of course, the difference doesn't make much of a ... difference, if all you do is just use the knife for three-second cuts on packaging and what not, but if you do any prolonged knife work, you'll feel it. You can experiment if you like. Put an exposed full tang knife in the freezer along with an F1 for some time, and then get them out and try how they feel in the hand. Both will feel cold. The full tang knife will feel cold as hell. The freezer is what, -18C? Around here, it can get around -40C. Add to that wind chill, and you'll have somewhat cold weather, in which you really don't want your knife to have exposed metal in the handle. There's just nothing even remotely comfortable about it. :eek: Of course, nice warm gloves help a lot. But those don't exactly help in precision work, and especially not with a choil..
 
I have to agree with what most have said...

BRK&T and Fallkniven make top notch products. I have a Fallkniven A1 and a BRK&T Wet Enviro Recon (made off the design of the Bravo 1). I went for the A1, because of it's length, thickness, and VG-10 steel. It's a pretty good performer (I've had some experience with the spyderco vg-10).


Anyway, arguably I'd say Bark Rivers are more "collectible". I think they do have the aesthetic edge, but not by a whole lot. Mainly it's the micarta that looks nicer, but to be honest if I were in a survival situation..I'd prefer the thermorun handles. Why? They're decent shock absorbers and the grip is pretty awesome. I think that would be important in the long run. Even if it was just a few weeks..one slip on wet micarta could end your surviving pretty quick with a bum hand. I know you could rough up the micarta for grip and all that. I just think the thermorun has the edge out of the box.



If I were just picking a user.. It's a toss up. Both bring great things to the table. It would also depend on the climate I was using the blades in. If it was cold/wet...Fallkniven. If it was a little more temperate..either would be acceptable.


Moral of the story is that BOTH are great quality knives. Although I would argue that BRKT makes a better 4" and below knife than Fallkniven. I would take a Bravo 1 over a F1 any day of the week, but that's just me.


Both have things they bring to the table and on the holistic approach..you really wouldn't go wrong with either. There are MUCH worse knives out there.
 
I bought both.

I have an S1 and a Canadian Special. Both are great knives. Yes the S1's handle is a little grippy, but that's for friction. I suggest getting both and selling the one you don't like. Somebody will buy it because they are so well made by either company.
 
I agree that the "perforation" and such gentler incremental methods that are easier on the knife at the expense of time are a good way to go (if you have time). I'm just curious about knife behavior under simulated adverse circumstances, for fun and so I have a better idea of what I can expect to do if some accident strands me in the woods and I need to make a crutch or lean-to.

I've been pretty hard on the Gameskeeper, including using it as the family can opener for a while, and save for a couple irrelevant nicks that'll polish out in time it's good as new. Well, sharper than new. It's just a good feeling knowing that it can take the punishment, is easy to bring back, and if the unthinkable happens, BRKT is there with their awesome warranty. Hmm. Makes me want to get a Bravo-1 -- a victim of my own propaganda. ;)
 
We have all bought knives that plain didn't fit our hand/use appropriately - and those that didn't measure up to our expectations after very little use. When a Bark River falls in that heading, it is likely due to it's carbon steel taking on a bit more 'patina' than we had intended. We - or at least I - have been spoiled by SS in our/my blades. We don't 'care' for them as we once did so diligently. The A-2 tool is not forgiving like the unreal 420HC of Buck knives. It is fantastic blade material - just keep it cleaned - and coated (mineral oil works well) - and not stored in a sheath. As B R K&T examples are so technically handsome, mine, even with the cheap/plain handles I opt for, are on a display stand in a glass case when I am not carrying them as current users - techno-art.

No doubt a highly polished Micarta or G10 handle will be an invitation to disaster with a cold wet hand and a finger-guardless knife. Here, that Gameskeeper reigns supreme. The Fox River is okay - with some cross sanding helpful on it's, and the Gameskeeper's, handle - while my '07 LE Northstar, already missing it's lanyard loop, is a distant third. Nice blade, just an invitation to disaster should your grip slip the slightest.

My previous bushcraft selection, as odd as it may sound, was a Buck 192 Vanguard. It's well shielded blade instilled confidence, even if the convex grind of the Barkies drew me asunder. I am considering that Bark-niven... still less dear than a properly handled F1 from Falkniven - and with a supurb sheath, too.

Stainz
 
starboard said:
I agree that the "perforation" and such gentler incremental methods that are easier on the knife at the expense of time are a good way to go (if you have time). I'm just curious about knife behavior under simulated adverse circumstances, for fun and so I have a better idea of what I can expect to do if some accident strands me in the woods and I need to make a crutch or lean-to.

I've been pretty hard on the Gameskeeper, including using it as the family can opener for a while, and save for a couple irrelevant nicks that'll polish out in time it's good as new. Well, sharper than new. It's just a good feeling knowing that it can take the punishment, is easy to bring back, and if the unthinkable happens, BRKT is there with their awesome warranty. Hmm. Makes me want to get a Bravo-1 -- a victim of my own propaganda. ;)
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. Makes me want to get a Bravo-1
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Wait for the Bravo II, it will be even more awesome.
 
I have 4 Fallkniven knives and none of them have let me down yet.I just bought my first BRKT knife(mountain man) and I look forward to giving it a good solid run side by side with my Fallknivens.
Both companies have a stellar reputation so I guess it's more a matter of personal taste.
 
As far as I know, we have the cheapest food in the world, just look at the average size of Americans.
 
savagesicslayer said:
I have 4 Fallkniven knives and none of them have let me down yet.I just bought my first BRKT knife(mountain man) and I look forward to giving it a good solid run side by side with my Fallknivens.
Both companies have a stellar reputation so I guess it's more a matter of personal taste.
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No, it has to do with materials and craftsmanship.
 
One nice thing about the F1 is it's only a 3.8" blade. In some places 4" blades get additional legal attention. That and it's utilitarian design make it a nice kit knife for bug out bags, first aid kits, car trunks, etc. The stainless steel comes in handy when you want to store it away and forget it until you need it.
 
Don't have a Barkie, but I can say that my F1 took all the abuse that I could dish out at it.
Gave it to my daughter as she is now a Pathfinder Guide Master, and needs a good knife.
I missed it so much that I went out and bought a Fallkniven A1.

My F1. (Used to have a black blade finish, but I didn't like it, so when it started to wear off, I helped it along)
F1After.jpg


My A1 with custom Rams horn handle
FallknivenA1dsc1391qb8.jpg
 
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