Beckerhead Knife Making and Modification Thread

Aight....finally got over my FoFU (Fear of FU) and started shaping the scales on my 7. So far, so good; feels pretty good in hand. Had to go back and find where I asked about finishes for my-carta, 'cause I think this is gonna need it - I want to leave the rougher finish for grippiness, so I prolly won't sand above 220. Didn't take any pics of the process, used the belt sander and a 1½" sanding drum on the drill press. Now trying to get some of the grind marks out of the handle spine and belly. Pic (saving the rest for my WIP thread):

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Thinking a lot about shop safety while doing this. Sucks about that buffer accident - I can certainly see how that sort of thing happens; I took a chunk out of my felt wheel last winter trying to fix up some Moras for the girls' Christmas gifts. Got lucky - dented the blade a little and lost a piece of the felt wheel, but no injuries. Scared the shit out of me, as I'm always careful around tools. I know stuff happens, but I try not to let it happen to me. Anyway, this thread needs some pitchers and some more input.
 
Looking good Mike!!

I been working on scales today as well...

Not shown but i also drilled dimples all over on the inside of the scales to increase surface area for the epoxy and i used a file and a dremel to put groves in the brass pins as well.

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Nice, WW.

This is what my scales will (hopefully) look like after I get some finish on 'em:

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Looks like it'll be a LOT easier than finishing wood....no offense, Worldwood.
 
DunkEm said:
Is each layer of color just one piece thick?
Click to expand...

IIRC I did the orange in 2 layers...then 2 purple, 2 orange and the rest purple....
Looking at it I can see the fabric weave and I'm almost sure that's what I did. It is a nice heavy duty cotton duck canvas. I've got some more in different colors, gonna try and get up the gumption to make more.

When I made it I just laid them all together and squished it down to see what it might look like. I really didn't want alternating layers of color showing clearly every inconsistency in the shaping. Not on the first set, anywho.
 
Question time!!!

What do you use on wood that hasnt been stabilized to protect it from rot and stuff?

Do you need to do this with stabilized wood?

What do you use to shine/polish wood?

Thanks!
 
worldwood said:
Question time!!!

What do you use on wood that hasnt been stabilized to protect it from rot and stuff?

Do you need to do this with stabilized wood?

What do you use to shine/polish wood?

Thanks!
Click to expand...

There are all sorts of stuff you can throw on wood to protect it. Some woods you can actually bring to a fairly high polish with sandpaper and then a buffing wheel and compound. That being said I am sure everyone has their own preference. From Boiled Linseed Oil to certain stains, treatments, sealers, and varnishes. When I have restored some of my old flea market finds I usually soak the handle is some sort of oil, then wax them. To wax them you can warm up the wood slightly with a lighter or stove element (just be careful not to heat the blade) then rub on some wax, reheat to soak that in, wipe, and repeat. Then just buff by hand... Just have to be careful with your temperature. I also have just took a buffing wheel with wax on it, and ran the handle under that for a wax and light polish. Usually use beeswax, which I like, but have been playing around with cheapo gulf wax. This is just the way I treat wood, but there are probably a billion other ways out there that may work better lol. Seems like I watched a video of Nick Wheeler using some wax on a buffing wheel to buff out wood, just cant remember what kind he was using. I just like this way cause its fun, works well, and gives the wood a little bit more water resistance.
 
For wax I'd say carnauba wax, as it's quite a bit harder than beeswax. Still, wood should get some kind of oil/poly sealer of some sort to keep it from absorbing water. I've done mine with Minwax wipe on poly, then carnauba wax buffed on after.
 
worldwood said:
Question time!!!

What do you use on wood that hasnt been stabilized to protect it from rot and stuff?

Do you need to do this with stabilized wood?

What do you use to shine/polish wood?

Thanks!
Click to expand...

For a sealer, some folks use Cyanoacrylate, aka superglue, applying multiple thin coats, sanding between coats. Leaves a shiny coating and the first few layers seal up the surface pores of the wood. the sealing process helps prevent rot/decay. How well will depend on the wood, number of coats, how the knife is used and how it is stored/used over time. This can be used on stabilized or unstabilized woods

Some woods don't require stabilization, while others should be but can be acceptable w/o, and others MUST be. There's a thread or two in the maker's forum with lists of wood type vs stabilization recommendations. Couldn't find them right off on my cursory search.

For polishing wood, carnuba wax, bee's wax, tung oil are some of the finish products that can be used. There are many others. Each has its advantages and disadvantages. I saw a spread sheet somewhere that listed each finish along w/ ads/disads but I can't find it right now. Must be on one of my old systems' hard drives. Sure thought I had already migrated that stuff, but it's vanished on me. :(
 
zzyzzogeton said:
For a sealer, some folks use Cyanoacrylate, aka superglue, applying multiple thin coats, sanding between coats. Leaves a shiny coating and the first few layers seal up the surface pores of the wood. the sealing process helps prevent rot/decay. How well will depend on the wood, number of coats, how the knife is used and how it is stored/used over time. This can be used on stabilized or unstabilized woods
Click to expand...

superglue is good for filling large-grain voids.

I've used BLO + Tru-Oil and more recently Howard's Butcher Block treatment.
 
I was just looking at Howard's butchers block treatment yesterday, there's a paste and a plastic bottle Stuff... Looks Luke beeswax with oil in it. Almost bought it... Looks like I gotta make a pit stop...
 
710 said:
I was just looking at Howard's butchers block treatment yesterday, there's a paste and a plastic bottle Stuff... Looks Luke beeswax with oil in it. Almost bought it... Looks like I gotta make a pit stop...
Click to expand...

it's beeswax and mineral oil, conveniently mixed. Nothing more, as far as I can tell. Food safe, which is nice.
 
Information overload LMAO

So if i use something like Hope's tung oil, i would still need to use wax and buff it in as well?

If i use that "Howard's Butcher Block treatment", since it has both oil and wax in it, would that be all i had to use to waterproof it and prevent rot?

Thanks fellas, lots of great info here!!
 
710 said:
Which one? I was gonna get the natural paste in tin on the right.
Click to expand...

I have only seen/used the one on the left. It's good for wood because the mushiness allows the oil component to soak in a bit. The harder wax will seal well, but won't penetrate as deeply.

Another approach would be to soak (as in dunk and leave) the handle in BLO for awhile (how long? dunno) and then wax or seal after wiping/drying. I need to set up some containers so I can do that.
 
Ya, I went out and bought the butchers block one and sampled it on some curly maple only ground down 50 grit and wow! So what if you use a heat gun to only heat up the wood handles instead og throwing the knife in the oven?

 
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