It won't make a difference especially considering the steels you are dealing with (s30v, vg-10, 154cm ect). Bm vs spyderco vs kershaw you are talking about hardened steels in a folder which is designed for cutting and piercing not prying. You could just as easily say that any of the companys you have listed have physically degraded their blades through the hardening process if prying your way out of a life and death situation is you point of necessity.
-
The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is available! Price is $250 ea (shipped within CONUS).
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/
BM vs Spydy vs ZT vs CS
- Thread starter SoCalJok3r
- Start date
- Status
It won't make a difference especially considering the steels you are dealing with (s30v, vg-10, 154cm ect). Bm vs spyderco vs kershaw you are talking about hardened steels in a folder which is designed for cutting and piercing not prying. You could just as easily say that any of the companys you have listed have physically degraded their blades through the hardening process if prying your way out of a life and death situation is you point of necessity.
- Joined
- Oct 30, 2005
- Messages
- 5,171
You make some valid points.
- Joined
- Jan 30, 2010
- Messages
- 493
obvious troll thread makes it to 6 pages?
- Joined
- Oct 6, 2009
- Messages
- 10,338
ha, this one gets to me, my axis lock failed before any knife that i own. that includes some cheap 4 dollar gas station knives. give me a spydie any day, you should just stop before your hole gets any deeper.
My thoughts on the whole prying issue would be the blade will most likely fail at one of the force points. Either where you are pulling (or at the pivot), or where the object you are prying is touching the blade (down near the tip). The area where the spyderhole is place will probably not be where the blade/knife fails. Finally, benchmade makes knives with opening holes. http://www.benchmade.com/products/555 is one example.
That said, hole or no hole, folders shouldn't be used for prying.
Benchmade, spyderco and Kershaw are all excellent brands and all three have relatively different looking products. Pick the one that you like the looks of the most for your next knife, I think you'll be happy with the quality of whatever you pick
That said, hole or no hole, folders shouldn't be used for prying.
Benchmade, spyderco and Kershaw are all excellent brands and all three have relatively different looking products. Pick the one that you like the looks of the most for your next knife, I think you'll be happy with the quality of whatever you pick
- Joined
- Sep 10, 2007
- Messages
- 2,518
I think the odds of any good information coming from your post is about the same as me acquiring super powers. As much as I would like x-ray vision it just isnt gonna happen.
trix2004
BANNED
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2008
- Messages
- 848
well , I said it before and I will say it again , I sold almost all of my BM's and will keep all my Spydies , BM quality went downhill in past few years , I never got dull Spyderco or with loose pivot pin without thread-locker .
as for prying with knife in case of emergency , if your life depends on it ,
whatever you have BM or Spyderco , sorry but you can kiss your a$$ buy-buy . both will fail.
as for prying with knife in case of emergency , if your life depends on it ,
whatever you have BM or Spyderco , sorry but you can kiss your a$$ buy-buy . both will fail.
- Joined
- Mar 31, 2009
- Messages
- 2,237
I will say that I am hesitant to enter into this thread.
One point I'd like to make is that strategic removal of material from an object that experiences torque along its length can actually improve its resistance to stress and fractures. Note that I did not say that it increases strength, nor did I claim that it decreases strength--these are judgments which are outside of issue I am discussing.
Imagine a rectangular bar of steel. Now imagine something akin to a tuning fork, ignoring the lower single "stranded" end and focusing only on the upper twin "stranded" part. In a situation of torque stress, circular motion against the width of both steel objects, the tuning forked shaped piece of steel will resist fractures and breaks due to stress. This is due to that fact that the torque induced stress occurs along two separate paths of resistance, rather than a single path. For the solid bar, this stress is distributed unevenly, which leads to points of stress fracture at the outside edges of the bar.
This is why some larger knives have a structure known as a "blood-groove". It is not designed to give channels for blood to flow down, but rather to allow a more even distribution of torque stresses.
Now, it will take a greater amount of force to twist the solid steel bar 180 degrees. However, the tuning fork shaped steel bar will be able to twist 180 degrees without damage.
As this applies to the conversation here, the hole in the blade will act similarly in a situation of torque stress. Let no one mistake my meaning, and imply that I am arguing that the hole makes the blade "stronger". I am only arguing that because the hole separates the blade into two parts, this model applies directly at the hole.
One point I'd like to make is that strategic removal of material from an object that experiences torque along its length can actually improve its resistance to stress and fractures. Note that I did not say that it increases strength, nor did I claim that it decreases strength--these are judgments which are outside of issue I am discussing.
Imagine a rectangular bar of steel. Now imagine something akin to a tuning fork, ignoring the lower single "stranded" end and focusing only on the upper twin "stranded" part. In a situation of torque stress, circular motion against the width of both steel objects, the tuning forked shaped piece of steel will resist fractures and breaks due to stress. This is due to that fact that the torque induced stress occurs along two separate paths of resistance, rather than a single path. For the solid bar, this stress is distributed unevenly, which leads to points of stress fracture at the outside edges of the bar.
This is why some larger knives have a structure known as a "blood-groove". It is not designed to give channels for blood to flow down, but rather to allow a more even distribution of torque stresses.
Now, it will take a greater amount of force to twist the solid steel bar 180 degrees. However, the tuning fork shaped steel bar will be able to twist 180 degrees without damage.
As this applies to the conversation here, the hole in the blade will act similarly in a situation of torque stress. Let no one mistake my meaning, and imply that I am arguing that the hole makes the blade "stronger". I am only arguing that because the hole separates the blade into two parts, this model applies directly at the hole.
- Joined
- Nov 9, 2009
- Messages
- 44,314
This thread seems like it will probably not end well. In before the lock
:thumbup:
Well said.
I want heat vision
:thumbup:
Well said.
I want heat vision
That depends where you're prying with the blade. If you're prying with the tip, then yeah, the tip is going to break. If you're prying with the body of the blade, then the crack is going to propagate through the weakest point. Where is the weakest point? Is it through the body of the blade, or through a giant hole in the blade?
Come on, guys, this is simple physics/materials...
I know you mean from spine to edge... But consider two potato chips: one is very skinny, and the other is wider. There isn't going to be much difference once you put enough stress to break them.
Also, if the potato chip had a hole in it (lol), then where is the crack most likely to appear?
That's actually less likely to be damaged for a number of reasons:
1. The hole is in the thickest part of the metal. The pivot's depth is the size of the full thickness of the blade (say 3mm for a 3mm blade). The deployment hole is much bigger in diameter, and if the blade is flat ground, for example (as was the Military), then it is less deep. You know that when something bends, one side of the material compresses while the other expands. It's harder to cause this to happen with a thicker material (the pivot area vs. the deployment hole area.)
2. As you mention: torque. τ = F x l. Your pivot hole is in a position on the tang such that you're not going to be able to apply a lot of force at a great distance (l). You're not going to get that much torque. If you consider applying from the other side, then it should be obvious that the deployment hole is going to break before the pivot hole.
3. The pivot pin and handles are going to break before the pivot hole does.
And I'd like to restate: this is merely a technicality. If you're using a knife as a knife... then you shouldn't even have to worry about this.
- Joined
- Sep 27, 2008
- Messages
- 6,602
Last edited:
- Joined
- Jan 9, 2009
- Messages
- 56
ya well if people stayed on topic like i wanted and jsut give info on why they believe there blades are better than other.. i mean its not really to complicated to understand.. i made one statement and look 6 pages of nonsense.. i jsut wanted some info of he other kinds of knives that i can get.. but some of you have to look so good online that you cant seem to just let somethings go.. shit all i said was it seems that the hole would make the blade weaker if all you said was i see how you can believe that holy sh1t it would have been done on page one.. from everything i have read so far.. there maybe only 4-5 posts that actually stay on topic...
and i didnt "runaway" im sorry but i have work and cant stay online dealing with uneducated knife nuts all the time...
and i didnt "runaway" im sorry but i have work and cant stay online dealing with uneducated knife nuts all the time...
- Joined
- Oct 7, 2009
- Messages
- 1,861
You asked for chaos. The brands of knives you have stated are all esteemed companies that have several great models that are owned by all of us.
You asking which is better is just trolling.
If one person states why "their" brand is "better" then you are just going to get another fanboy retorting why theirs is better. Hence an endless loop of argument.
Rather than asking which company is better and submitting ignorant opinions you should have asked for Advantages of different knives from these different companies rather than asking for a flame war of whose BEST.
Read your original post and it should be a no brainer as to why this thread turned out the way it is. :thumbdn:
- Joined
- Jan 9, 2009
- Messages
- 56
incase you didnt know that is what i wanted how ever am i goin to hear why theirs is better and then they will say whys yours isnt.. becuz im sure some of you will likely ignore your fav blades flaws... i dont see what is wrong for asking a question like this.. it seems that this would be the only way to get the real facts about the blades instead of people jsut proclaiming their blades to be better.., i thought the whole point of this forum was for people to come together and learn and talk about blades.. isnt this what we (well most) of us are doing.. so how is it trolling.. what even is trolling? and why do i care if i am or not?
my BM 950 uses 154CM steel while i have not had much exp with other i find 154 to be very good.. not as hard to sharpen as others and it will hold an edge for a while.. and BM uses this steel alot in there value blades.. what do the others use?
however i feel that the best blade for the money was a kershaw blur..
my BM 950 uses 154CM steel while i have not had much exp with other i find 154 to be very good.. not as hard to sharpen as others and it will hold an edge for a while.. and BM uses this steel alot in there value blades.. what do the others use?
however i feel that the best blade for the money was a kershaw blur..
Last edited:
- Joined
- Jan 9, 2009
- Messages
- 56
im sorry i figured we were all adults (sorry my mistake) im sure if you have read my posts you will see that i said pos and cons of your fav blades.. im sorry i didnt use advantage/ disadvantage i will you that terminology next time and hopefully forgo this problem next time.. 
k guys here is an example of what i wanted..
BM= great fit n finish, a little pricey for premium material blades..
Spydy= same basic blades/ /shapes, they all work, lil imaginatin. a little bit cheaper for premium material
ZT= tough, hard working, practical, expensive, get what you pay for..
CS= legit overpriced knife, they work but cost and arm and a leg..
and so on and so forth..
was that too hard to ask.. do i need to give step by step examples like we are in 1st grade.. c'mon guys.. i have heard so much good things about this forum and then this happens.. not all of you, are who i am talking about..
k guys here is an example of what i wanted..
BM= great fit n finish, a little pricey for premium material blades..
Spydy= same basic blades/ /shapes, they all work, lil imaginatin. a little bit cheaper for premium material
ZT= tough, hard working, practical, expensive, get what you pay for..
CS= legit overpriced knife, they work but cost and arm and a leg..
and so on and so forth..
was that too hard to ask.. do i need to give step by step examples like we are in 1st grade.. c'mon guys.. i have heard so much good things about this forum and then this happens.. not all of you, are who i am talking about..
- Status