$39.99+tax for another one, vs $4.95 to send it to Buck and get it fixed, or exchanged for a new one?
Honestly not trying to be a wisea**, but I don't follow the logic here?
Although, as much as I like the 110's, I can see both sides here. As far as it "holding up" against "modern folders", I think if used for what a knife is supposed to be used for, cutting, it will do just fine. Pocket clips and thumbstuds have nothing to do with how well a knife "holds up", so I won't address those, the only real point here is the locking systems. And "if" someone goes beyond the cutting tasks that the folding hunter was intended for, and starts treating their knife like a splitting maul or hatchet, then yeah, I can see a 110 developing play. A few twigs or sticks, no, mine have done that many times with no problem, but brass bolsters with a brass pin, were never intended to be beat on, or hacked with against wood.
I can explain the logic, at least for me.
Several years ago when RAZORBLADEs (or was it BADHAMMER? It was the commercial fisherman from Nova Scotia) complained about vertical play on a new 110 (custom, I think) it kicked off a long and lively thread in the Buck subforum. This was back when Joe Houser still participated in the forum.
At that time, I mentioned that I had 2 Bucklite Max folders that had each developed scary amounts of vertical play in less than a year each. I sent mine to Joe so they could figure out what was going on but told him to keep them. By that point, I had already concluded the design was weak compared to the Opinels I was also using and I knew that unless Buck changed the design or materials used in those knives, I would just wreck any fresh ones. It just didn't make any sense to ask for new ones as I wouldn't trust them or want to gift them to anybody.
I disagree with the assertion that this is all about lock strength. It is not.
There are three ways a folding knife can develop play and they're different:
1) Vertical play from hard cutting forces
2) Lateral play from hard lateral or twisting forces
3) Accidental closure (aka lock failure) from strong closing forces
I'm only concerned about the first 2. I treat all folding knives like slip joints and try to never rely on the lock holding.
I DO NOT consider the first 2 to be "abuse" - my Opinels have taught me that. In terms of hard cutting and lateral play, the Opinel is something like a stick tang fixed blade. Either the blade or the wood handle itself will break before the joint will.
I think what can be said is that the soft brass pins and brass bolsters were made for hunting and general use and for that, they hold well.
But they weren't made for hard cutting (large cutting and lateral forces). Other folding knives (the Opinel is one) are.
Like I said in my first post in this thread, "horses for courses". I carry my 110 for hunting and love it for that. But that doesn't mean that hard use above what the 110 can handle is "abuse".