Buck 110 vs Modern Folders

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This again o brother. There is no comparing I can think of 50 knives at the same price point that are better and when I say better I mean stronger lock better materials better build quality just all around better in tangible facts. With that said you will never convince 110ers that it's true. Buck 110 is a classic icon of knives but it does not stack up even against bucks of the same price. You buy a 110 for looks or tradition because you like it. FYI you can put any folder in a belt sheath even if it has a clip the knife police won't arrest you.
 
Mic77 said:
This again o brother. There is no comparing I can think of 50 knives at the same price point that are better and when I say better I mean stronger lock better materials better build quality just all around better in tangible facts. With that said you will never convince 110ers that it's true. Buck 110 is a classic icon of knives but it does not stack up even against bucks of the same price. You buy a 110 for looks or tradition because you like it. FYI you can put any folder in a belt sheath even if it has a clip the knife police won't arrest you.
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That hasn't changed either....

Back in the 70's there really wasn't that many good choices other than Custom knives, not really too much better in the early 80's....

In the late 80's and forward things changed though....
 
Ankerson said:
Yeah if used as the typical hunting knife that might actually get used maybe once or twice a year.....




The 110 has better blade geometry than the typical SnG.....





It actually turned into one once the BS stories started to fly like they always seem to when threads like these come up...

If a person uses a 110 daily under normal use it will loosen up over time and develop blade play, normal wear will cause that, the brass bolsters and pin along with the lock back design will develop play.....
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The 110 does have better blade geometry than the typical SNG. I agree with that. So, I think that if you stacked them up with the same blade steel, you would see much better cutting performance from the Buck. That's a big one right there, considering knives are manufactured for the very fundamental purpose of cutting.

I don't agree with anyone who says a Buck 110 is rock solid after 30 years. I have one that I've owned since I was a teenager. It had slight side to side play out of the box, and since being used for many many years, has slight up and down play now as well. It doesn't rattle, but there is slight play both side to side and up and down.

That being said...

Two of my favorite modern folders are the Benchmade Rift and Spyderco Paramilitary 2. I've owned several examples of both, and guess what, all of them came out of the box with slight side-to-side play. The Benchmades even develop some up/down play. Before you mention that I have to adjust the pivot, let me say that it's not possible to adjust the pivots on these to a point where the blade play is gone but the blade is able to be deployed without a ton of resistance, needing two hands.

Do I still use them? Yes, I love them. Am I worried about them closing on my hand? Absolutely not.

Do I still use the Buck 110? Yes, I love it. Am I worried about it closing on my hand? Absolutely not.

Some people can't stand a little blade play, but the simple truth is a lot of modern folders either have it straight out of the box or develop it easily. Of course, I wouldn't say this is true for CRK, Strider, Hinderer, etc, but these knives are hundreds of dollars.

The Buck 110 is a fine knife for its intended uses and has been a great companion for many people as an EDC under normal use. Of course it loosens up a little bit. Mine is still safe to use for sure despite a lot of years of use.
 
NYOutdoors said:
The 110 does have better blade geometry than the typical SNG. I agree with that. So, I think that if you stacked them up with the same blade steel, you would see much better cutting performance from the Buck. That's a big one right there, considering knives are manufactured for the very fundamental purpose of cutting.

I don't agree with anyone who says a Buck 110 is rock solid after 30 years. I have one that I've owned since I was a teenager. It had slight side to side play out of the box, and since being used for many many years, has slight up and down play now as well. It doesn't rattle, but there is slight play both side to side and up and down.

That being said...

Two of my favorite modern folders are the Benchmade Rift and Spyderco Paramilitary 2. I've owned several examples of both, and guess what, all of them came out of the box with slight side-to-side play. The Benchmades even develop some up/down play. Before you mention that I have to adjust the pivot, let me say that it's not possible to adjust the pivots on these to a point where the blade play is gone but the blade is able to be deployed without a ton of resistance, needing two hands.

Do I still use them? Yes, I love them. Am I worried about them closing on my hand? Absolutely not.

Do I still use the Buck 110? Yes, I love it. Am I worried about it closing on my hand? Absolutely not.

Some people can't stand a little blade play, but the simple truth is a lot of modern folders either have it straight out of the box or develop it easily. Of course, I wouldn't say this is true for CRK, Strider, Hinderer, etc, but these knives are hundreds of dollars.

The Buck 110 is a fine knife for its intended uses and has been a great companion for many people as an EDC under normal use. Of course it loosens up a little bit. Mine is still safe to use for sure despite a lot of years of use.
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Awesome post. The 110 is no super knife, but it's reliable and has quite the history behind it.

For many folks, it's the only knife they'll ever need. Although I'm sure a lot of them don't actually frequent places like this.
 
pinnah said:
The 110 is a hunting knife, first and foremost.....FWIW, I'd bet dollars to donuts the guy was chose the 110 mostly for cultural reasons (which is why most taticool people choose their knives).
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pinnah, you are spot on. This old timer is a horseman and hunter and he's using the 110 for its intended purpose. I'll bet he also packs an axe. My family has owned horses for 48 years and I can assure you, this old timer and his horse could care less about the extra weight of the 110. In all my years of trail riding and hanging around horse camps, I have seen more 110s and 112s than any other knife. I agree, the 110/112 must be somewhat of a cultural thing among cowboys.

My "trail worn" 112 that I've owned and used since 1973. Still locks up tight in all directions. :thumbup:


IMG_2550-1.jpg
 
TAH said:
pinnah, you are spot on. This old timer is a horseman and hunter and he's using the 110 for its intended purpose. I'll bet he also packs an axe. My family has owned horses for 48 years and I can assure you, this old timer and his horse could care less about the extra weight of the 110. In all my years of trail riding and hanging around horse camps, I have seen more 110s and 112s than any other knife. I agree, the 110/112 must be somewhat of a cultural thing among cowboys.

My "trail worn" 112 that I've owned and used since 1973. Still locks up tight in all directions. :thumbup:


IMG_2550-1.jpg
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Looks like it's spent most of it's life in the sheath from the amount of blade wear, or should I say lack of blade wear.... In 41 years....... It hasn't been sharpened that much so it hasn't seen a lot of constant use....

That said it looks like the typical use most knives really see in real life...

I have one here on lone that is 2007 vintage that looks 1000 times worse than that....
 
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Ankerson said:
Looks like it's spent most of it's life in the sheath from the amount of blade wear, or should I say lack of blade wear.... In 41 years....... It hasn't been sharpened that much so it hasn't seen a lot of constant use...
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Thanks for the compliment on my 112's condition. Actually, the blade doesn't look that good in life. The lighting hides the flaws. It is pretty scratched up and even has some pitting. The brass bolsters have dings and scratches as well. Of course. it's been sharpened quite a bit over the years. Once sharp, the 440C does hold a fairly long-lasting edge for the type of cutting I do. I'll admit, it has never been used as a pry bar or to baton wood - just typical barn and trail chores such as opening feed bags, cutting baling twine, cutting plastic spouts on wound oilment, drilling holes in leather girth straps, repairing tack, cutting low hanging branches over the trail, cutting briars from my horse's tail, whittling hotdog sticks, etc. I think I've used it for its intended purposes over the years, which might explain why it still locks up tight.

Anyway, it works for me and I've been happy with its performance.
 
TAH said:
Thanks for the compliment on my 112's condition. Actually, the blade doesn't look that good in life. The lighting hides the flaws. It is pretty scratched up and even has some pitting. The brass bolsters have dings and scratches as well. Of course. it's been sharpened quite a bit over the years. Once sharp, the 440C does hold a fairly long-lasting edge for the type of cutting I do. I'll admit, it has never been used as a pry bar or to baton wood - just typical barn and trail chores such as opening feed bags, cutting baling twine, cutting plastic spouts on wound oilment, drilling holes in leather girth straps, repairing tack, cutting low hanging branches over the trail, cutting briars from my horse's tail, whittling hotdog sticks, etc. I think I've used it for its intended purposes over the years, which might explain why it still locks up tight.

Anyway, it works for me and I've been happy with its performance.
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Sounds like what I used to use mine for also. :)

Farm work.
 
Pretty much I've read a lot about the newer Bucks being poorly made compared to the older ones. I was reading on another forum, about them and it was stated the quality has taken a dip. I know I bought a 105 last year that had very mismatched grinds on the edge. Even our buddy buckman in this thread complains about it in this thread. (although he certainly did not here)

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1228950-Buck-110-poor-finish?highlight=buck+110


buckman110 said:
You will have to pay shipping to send it to the factory. They will pay back. And as far as bucks quality goes, in my opinion it's slipping bad. I got a new 500 and the handle was cracked and a rivet was loose. Bought a 119 and the edge was layed back way past 15 degrees. If you want a real 110 I'd get a old 2 3 or 4 dot. This new stuff is just sadly disappointing, and I really hate to say that about buck.
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buckman110 said:
Yea. I have some vantages. That's the only one I like. I even had a punk break on me. I couldn't believe it. The old buck was BUCK. Now the custom stuff as I have seen is very good. But shouldn't all bucks knives be the same quality? As with everything else. Cheap Cheap keep costs down. Rush Rush. Seems no one understands American made anymore. By hand means lots not anymore :(
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What he posted in this thread:

buckman110 said:
Jill, i will say this. If you want a good good 110 find a 2 dot or round that era. There all good, but thoes ones are really nice. Again just my opinion.
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buckman110 said:
No the current production ones are fine. I just favor the older ones more. The new ones have a melt in your hand feel. Tell u what how bout i send u one of my favorite 110s and u try it out? Send it back of course.
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CAD said:
Give it a rest, you have made your point.

Chris D.:D
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Thanks , but no thanks. :D People want to talk about the Buck 110, I want to as well. When everyone else gives it a rest I'll follow suit.
 
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So Jill......
Do you have photos of your failed 110?
You know the accepted rule,
no photos = it didn't happen ;)

Oh, and by the way, the OP never asked about hard use knive destruction.
So all this.hard use nonsense is way off topic isn't it?
 
jill jackson said:
Thanks , but no thanks. :D People want to talk about the Buck 110, I want to as well. When everyone else gives it a rest I'll follow suit.
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So all the regular Buck 110 users who claimed to have used them for tens of years (50 and counting for me) without concerns are liars because you had one incident of a 110 developing blade play and a fellow whose hobby is destroying knives backs you up. Riiiiiiiight!

As for the OP's question, modern folders are definitely superior in materials and design, much like modern cars are better with their GPS, rear cameras and blind spot monitors. Many of us prefer the old designs, and get along just fine with them. I have a box full of Spydercos, Sebenzas, purdy traditionals, Benchmades and the like but I get a special thrill out of sliding one of my old 110s onto my belt. It's like taking an old friend along on a hike. If I feel I might need to alter the flora along the way I carry a nice stout fixed blade.
 
Ankerson said:
The 110 has better blade geometry than the typical SnG.....
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NYOutdoors said:
The 110 does have better blade geometry than the typical SNG. I agree with that. So, I think that if you stacked them up with the same blade steel, you would see much better cutting performance from the Buck. That's a big one right there, considering knives are manufactured for the very fundamental purpose of cutting.
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Better for what?

The current Buck's use the Buck 2000 hollow grind, which is very thin behind the edge. It's well known that this sort of grind helps maintain cutting performance as the edge degrades when you cutting material prone to self-separating like CARTA gel, rope and meat. This is why it "performs" well on CARTA tests, Ankerson's test and as a hunting knife.

Thin hollow grinds are also well understood to be horrible for wood working and carpentry, which is why carpentry and wood working knives tend to be either scandi, flat or convex grind (or some combination of those).

Interestingly, the older 110s from the 70s (along with other Bucks from that era) used a different grind that I've sometimes heard called a semi-hollow grind, which had a noticeable swell behind the edge before getting first thinner and then ultimately thicker at the spine. The (very pretty) "script" Buck Duke 500 has it although not as much as my old 2 dot 110 does.

You might be able to "see" it on the part of the edge near the tang on this shot.
Buck 110 by Pinnah, on Flickr

The difference when working with wood compared to a modern day Buck is very, very noticeable side by side. The older Buck grind peels off wood shavings marvelously, not unlike a convexed Scandi grind does. But then, it's a much worse slicer than a modern Buck, for exactly the same reason.

I'm just stating what I think should be obvious to this crowd; that there is no single kind of cutting and that different geometries do better in different types of cutting scenarios.

All of which leads us back to the point that the 110 is a fine hunting knife but may not be the best knife for all other uses.
 
DesertChris said:
So Jill......
Do you have photos of your failed 110?
You know the accepted rule,
no photos = it didn't happen ;)

Oh, and by the way, the OP never asked about hard use knive destruction.
So all this.hard use nonsense is way off topic isn't it?
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He asked how they compare to modern folders, the newer one I had about 7 years ago didn't compare well at all, no hard use involved. Photos would not show how loose it was anyway and no I never took any I just traded it away. Sorry you rabid Buck fans seem to think the 110 can hold it's own against what's available today for about the same money and it upsets you so much, when some people say it can't. You like them fine buy them carry them and use them. I know they cut just fine, mine even did that. You think they're as strong as anything else fine too, but I and many others call nonsense on that.
 
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