Buck 110 weight, Reality Check

Makael said:
KY hunt
I need your address. Your Sheath is ready. I tried to email.
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I just sent the info by message. Hopefully you get it. Thanks again. I actually forgot about it to be honest.
 
David Martin said:
I just received this from Norman S.. He has several remodeled 110's, Bucklights and 560's with their weights in ounces. Tastefully done. So, with permission I'll include this in this topic. Thank you Norm. DM
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The left column: Selector, new 560, 111, old 560. The right column: Bucklite, 110, 186, Yellowhorse. The guy in the middle is a skinnied up new 560. I removed 1/32" from the inside of each handle slab. The knife started out 7/16" thick. Now it is 3/8" thick.
 
I should point out that all of these knives except the Yellowhorse and the Selector have screws in the pivots. Non Selector blades will fit 7 of these handles. Selector blades will fit 8 of these handles. The lower right knife has an S110V blade. If I put that blade in the 110 handle, I get a 110 squared.
 
Ooo, your mathematical mind is kicking in. Sunday afternoon and your having coffee? Ha, me too! Right, column 110 has a damascus blade. I checked my 111 and it weighed 3 1/2 oz. but no pocket clip, Ti coated blade and stainless threaded pivot. So, yours is in range. How come it's no problem for you to go about procuring a half a dozen very modern 110's? When several other guys are still whining for them?
When the pivot pin is threaded do you go back with a bushing in the blade and head showing on one side? Handsome group photo. DM
 
tiguy7, nice collection/group, thanks for the weight and ID info. Did the Yellowhorse come with the S110V? Preston
 
Tiguy, have you noticed any improved performance of the knife with a threaded pivot pin? DM
 
pjsjr said:
tiguy7, nice collection/group, thanks for the weight and ID info. Did the Yellowhorse come with the S110V? Preston
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The David Yellowhorse knife came with a signed stainless Damascus blade. I have made no attempt to swap a blade on that one.
 
David Martin said:
Ooo, your mathematical mind is kicking in. Sunday afternoon and your having coffee? Ha, me too! Right, column 110 has a damascus blade. I checked my 111 and it weighed 3 1/2 oz. but no pocket clip, Ti coated blade and stainless threaded pivot. So, yours is in range. How come it's no problem for you to go about procuring a half a dozen very modern 110's? When several other guys are still whining for them?
When the pivot pin is threaded do you go back with a bushing in the blade and head showing on one side? Handsome group photo. DM
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Dear David, the whining on the Pocket Clip is about the Vantage Style Clip. Not the Bolster style ! The Vantage Style would not be as easy a job for the average Joe. Take a look at the Vantage clip sometime and see what it looks like and how it mounted. I think it would look a Hell of a lot Better. The tiny holes drilled and tapped in the stainless spacer not easily done . Very easy to have the tiny tap or drill bit break. Probably why me as whiner have not seen the Vantage Clip on a 110 yet . The steel screw pivot on the other hand has my interest and was wondering if you know is the Blade using the threads of the screw as a bearing surface? Also do you think Stainless Steel would be a better choice over Brass or Nickel for Knife frame material? Thanks 👍
 
tiguy7 said:
I should point out that all of these knives except the Yellowhorse and the Selector have screws in the pivots. Non Selector blades will fit 7 of these handles. Selector blades will fit 8 of these handles. The lower right knife has an S110V blade. If I put that blade in the 110 handle, I get a 110 squared.
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Sorry, I see the Yellowhorse as the lower right knife. What am I missing? Preston
 
David Martin said:
Ooo, your mathematical mind is kicking in. Sunday afternoon and your having coffee? Ha, me too! Right, column 110 has a damascus blade. I checked my 111 and it weighed 3 1/2 oz. but no pocket clip, Ti coated blade and stainless threaded pivot. So, yours is in range. How come it's no problem for you to go about procuring a half a dozen very modern 110's? When several other guys are still whining for them?
When the pivot pin is threaded do you go back with a bushing in the blade and head showing on one side? Handsome group photo. DM
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I use 2 different types of take apart pivots. The first, as illustrated on 110 above, utilizes a #5X40TPI capscrew (like the 186), a blade pivot bushing (usually bronze or stainless), and a #5X40TPI Helicoil. The Helicoil is inserted in the right bolster. The left bolster is counter bored to accept the head of the cap screw. The blade pivot bushing is squeezed between the bolsters when the screw is tightened. When the bolsters are pinned together, it's tough to immobilize the bushing. Also a pinned knife can spread over time. It's the difference between putting your fence together nails or screws.
The second, as used in the 111, is not easy to see because the pocket clip is in the way. This particular construction utilizes a 1/8" diameter tube/barrel that is as long as the knife is wide. It is prethreaded internally with a #2X56TPI thread. #2X56TPI pan head screws are used at either end to squeeze the pivot bushing. I use red Loctite on one of the screws and put that end of the screw set under the pocket clip. This way the barrel cannot come out of the knife if the other screw is lost. Ordinarily I like both screws tight to keep the blade pivot from spinning. It's the blade that's supposed to move not the bushing.
I wouldn't say it's no problem to get the combination of parts that I like. I have knocked knives apart to get a desired factory blade, and I have had many blades custom made. I haven't bought custom handles yet, but I have modified a few.
You can adjust the play in a pivot by grinding the bushing to be just slightly wider than the blade. A sticky, dirty, corroded pivot can be smoothed out by disassembling the knife and cleaning and lubing the offensive parts.
 
Xr6x said:
Dear David, the whining on the Pocket Clip is about the Vantage Style Clip. Not the Bolster style ! The Vantage Style would not be as easy a job for the average Joe. Take a look at the Vantage clip sometime and see what it looks like and how it mounted. I think it would look a Hell of a lot Better. The tiny holes drilled and tapped in the stainless spacer not easily done . Very easy to have the tiny tap or drill bit break. Probably why me as whiner have not seen the Vantage Clip on a 110 yet . The steel screw pivot on the other hand has my interest and was wondering if you know is the Blade using the threads of the screw as a bearing surface? Also do you think Stainless Steel would be a better choice over Brass or Nickel for Knife frame material? Thanks 👍
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The blade swings on a donut shaped bushing. The blade is on the outside the bushing. A screw or rivet goes through the center of the bushing. The spring holder on the 110 is only 1/8" wide (pretty tough to drill and tap). If you have a Titanium handle, you can mount a clip on the side of the butt end. If you want to mount a clip on a plastic handled knife, it is best to put Helicoils in the plastic. I like working with Titanium. If you break a tap in it, you can dissolve it with acid.
If I were going to put a Vantage style clip on a 110, I would make flat spot on the butt end of the knife, drill and tap the brass on either side of the spring holder, and mount a clip with 2 screws that were on the center line of the clip.
I like stainless better than brass or Nickel Silver (white brass). It is a little harder to work with, but it doesn't turn green in the Spring.
 
tiguy7 said:
The blade swings on a donut shaped bushing. The blade is on the outside the bushing. A screw or rivet goes through the center of the bushing. The spring holder on the 110 is only 1/8" wide (pretty tough to drill and tap). If you have a Titanium handle, you can mount a clip on the side of the butt end. If you want to mount a clip on a plastic handled knife, it is best to put Helicoils in the plastic. I like working with Titanium. If you break a tap in it, you can dissolve it with acid.
If I were going to put a Vantage style clip on a 110, I would make flat spot on the butt end of the knife, drill and tap the brass on either side of the spring holder, and mount a clip with 2 screws that were on the center line of the clip.
I like stainless better than brass or Nickel Silver (white brass). It is a little harder to work with, but it doesn't turn green in the Spring.
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Thanks tiguy, I never thought of putting the screws in the brass. For sure a safer way to about it. After you counter bore the left side Bolster and have the right side drilled and tapped for the helicoil,on assembly do insert the blade and bushing first putting the bushing through the helicoil side then the helicoil then the cap screw? I'm thinking the helicoil in the right side is to have a larger hole to drop the bushing in and the helicoil then accepts the 186 cap screw. Thanks again for the info 🤓
 
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Xr6x said:
Thanks tiguy, I never thought of putting the screws in the brass. For sure a safer way to about it. After you counter bore the left side Bolster and have the right side drilled and tapped for the helicoil,on assembly do insert the blade and bushing first putting the bushing through the helicoil side then the helicoil then the cap screw?
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The Helicoil merely puts female threads in the right bolster. Without the Helicoil inserted in the right bolster, the screw would fall through the hole. The rivet hole is 1/8" in diameter. The #5 screw is also 1/8" in diameter. The screw goes through the bushing which is in the blade. So slide the blade with bushing between the handles, insert screw, and tighten the screw into the Helicoil. The handles will pinch the bushing which is a little thicker than the blade.
 
tiguy7 said:
The Helicoil merely puts female threads in the right bolster. Without the Helicoil inserted in the right bolster, the screw would fall through the hole. The rivet hole is 1/8" in diameter. The #5 screw is also 1/8" in diameter. The screw goes through the bushing which is in the blade. So slide the blade twith bushing between the handles, insert screw, and tighten the screw into the Helicoil. The handles will pinch the bushing which is a little thicker than the blade.
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Got ya, and are you using the same bushing for the 186 ? Sorry tiguy for all questions, here's another when tapping titanium do you need special tapping fluid or taps. Thank you again
 
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Was it Loretta lynn that said when asked "You had to watch and care for your brothers and sisters when you were so young. How did you manage it ?" she said well one thing that helped was when they started to wonder off or get out of control I would set the bed leg down on one of'ems clothes and that would keep 'em there until I could deal with what else was going on.

If she had a 110 she could have just put it in their pocket and boom . . . anchored in place. That's two down.

I appreciate the 110, have had this one for thirty years, but . . . it is a HEAVY knife. Like a hammer head with a blade on it.

 
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