Buck 110 weight, Reality Check

Xr6x said:
Got ya, and are you using the same bushing for the 186 ? Sorry tiguy for all questions, here's another when tapping titanium do you need special tapping fluid or taps. Thank you again
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All of the knives have bushings inserted in the blades except the Selector. The Selector bushing has a flat spot that is tangential to the axis of blade rotation. This flat allows a slotted blade to slid onto the bushing when the rocker is depressed. However, the bushing must be properly oriented. So it is fixed/molded into the handle.
The 186 came from the factory with 4 #5X40TPI holes tapped in the right handle slab. No Helicoils necessary. The bushings are pretty much the same from knife to knife. They vary slightly in thickness as do the blades. So you want a bushing/blade combination that lets the blade swing freely but has scant sideplay.
The bushings are usually stainless steel or bronze. The lock rockers use the same bushing on the Ti knives although the width isn't as critical as it would be on a blade bushing. Hard to notice sideplay on a rocker.
 
I like the sulfurated oil for lubing the Ti tap operation, but it is kind of messy. I have used other cleaner lubricants. Go slow, reverse frequently, and clear the chips often. I use a hand tapper for most of my tapping.
 
I use special drills for brass and Aluminum and special taps for Aluminum. For Ti slow the drill speed and feed down. Spit out your gum and pay attention when tapping Ti. If you break a tap in Ti, battery acid will dissolve it.
 
Tiguy, when you added a threaded pivot pin on the 110 (brass), just punch the pin out and use the same 5X40TPI to tap the threads. Then insert the allen screw. Create a counter sink hole with flat bottom bit. And you've got it on a 110? No drilling required. Thanks, DM
 
David Martin said:
Tiguy, when you added a threaded pivot pin on the 110 (brass), just punch the pin out and use the same 5X40TPI to tap the threads. Then insert the allen screw. Create a counter sink hole with flat bottom bit. And you've got it on a 110? No drilling required. Thanks, DM
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When you knock the rivet out of the pivot on the brass 110, the hole that's left is the same diameter (1/8") as the #5 screw. The pivot bushing also has a 1/8" hole. You have to insert a Helicoil in the right bolster to give the cap screw something to screw into. A Helicoil kit consists of a special (odd size) tap drill, a special tap (ditto), an insertion tool, and an assortment of various length coils. The coils can be purchased separately and size is expressed as the ratio of length to diameter.
I don't recommend counter boring with a flat bit or a countersink. #5 counterbores are not that expensive. Counterbores have a pilot that has the same diameter as the screw shank. If you use a smaller headed screw, you can make the counterbore shallower. If you use a flat head or oval head screw, you can use a countersink.
 
Ok, so tap the right bolster and insert a Helicoil in those threads. Extend it all the way out and smooth that screw shank off. Then counter bore with a #5 for the allen head. Simple. Should I run into difficulty I'll email you. This is on a 1982 frame with solid macassar ebony handles with finger grooves. So, I want to save this. Then going back with a drop point Selector blade. I'll end up with a stronger pivot pin and tighter frame. Thanks, DM
 
David Martin said:
Ok, so tap the right bolster and insert a Helicoil in those threads. Extend it all the way out and smooth that screw shank off. Then counter bore with a #5 for the allen head. Simple. Should I run into difficulty I'll email you. This is on a 1982 frame with solid macassar ebony handles with finger grooves. So, I want to save this. Then going back with a drop point Selector blade. I'll end up with a stronger pivot pin and tighter frame. Thanks, DM
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Just don't adjust your screw length before you do your counterbore or the screw end will stick out of the frame. The Selector blade will fit in the 1982 handle. Just put the bushing from the old blade into the Selector blade. Feel free to email me. I can furnish pictures for the thread if you feel like posting them. I get most of my thread insert tools and parts from Travers.
 
I can either shave it down after it's in or cut it, accounting for the counter bore. The bushing is in the blade. Hopefully the stainless 5m-40TPI screws I purchase
will be of good quality. Just what my hardware store offers (ACE). Thanks, DM
 
David Martin said:
I can either shave it down after it's in or cut it, accounting for the counter bore. The bushing is in the blade. Hopefully the stainless 5m-40TPI screws I purchase
will be of good quality. Just what my hardware store offers (ACE). Thanks, DM
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My Ace carries #4, #6, #8, #10, #12, etc. screws. They are real short on #5 stainless cap screws.
 
I've been using 1/8" pivot barrels threaded 2-56 w/ titanium 2-56 flat head screws. Get titanium screws if you can. If you use threadlocker you can tear up the stainless pretty quick. At least I can tear them up pretty quick!
 
MT_Pokt said:
I've been using 1/8" pivot barrels threaded 2-56 w/ titanium 2-56 flat head screws. Get titanium screws if you can. If you use threadlocker you can tear up the stainless pretty quick. At least I can tear them up pretty quick!
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I also use the internally threaded 1/8' diameter barrels for some conversions, but I use stainless, pan head, TORX recess screws. How are you tearing up your SS screws? How does Titanium resist tearing up relative to stainless? I love take apart knives for many reasons, but many manufacturers will void your warranty if you disassemble.
 
Red Loctite...

I enjoy working on 110s the most. Rather than just new handle scales which are pretty simple, I mill the rear bolsters off. For new handles, I use stabilized woods, Micarta, elk and mammoth ivory. I have one in the shop now I'm trying to finish I dubbed the DM 110. It's a brass frame, bareheaded, Micarta, CPM154 drop point, with a lanyard hole. Should be pretty cool if I can find the time to wrap it up
 
MT_Pokt said:
Red Loctite...

I enjoy working on 110s the most. Rather than just new handle scales which are pretty simple, I mill the rear bolsters off. For new handles, I use stabilized woods, Micarta, elk and mammoth ivory. I have one in the shop now I'm trying to finish I dubbed the DM 110. It's a brass frame, bareheaded, Micarta, CPM154 drop point, with a lanyard hole. Should be pretty cool if I can find the time to wrap it up
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Thanks for getting that done for me......:D:thumbup::D
 
Pokt, that would be a remodel I'd like for sure. Will enjoy photos when your finished. DM
 
MT_Pokt said:
Red Loctite...

I enjoy working on 110s the most. Rather than just new handle scales which are pretty simple, I mill the rear bolsters off. For new handles, I use stabilized woods, Micarta, elk and mammoth ivory. I have one in the shop now I'm trying to finish I dubbed the DM 110. It's a brass frame, bareheaded, Micarta, CPM154 drop point, with a lanyard hole. Should be pretty cool if I can find the time to wrap it up
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May I say that RED Loctite is for permanently placing a screw. Use BLUE Loctite if you plan to remove the screw in the future.
 
David Martin said:
Tiguy, when you added a threaded pivot pin on the 110 (brass), just punch the pin out and use the same 5X40TPI to tap the threads. Then insert the allen screw. Create a counter sink hole with flat bottom bit. And you've got it on a 110? No drilling required. Thanks, DM
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DM you corrected me this past Sunday for calling the "ROCKER PIN" a pivot pin and now you are calling it the same. LOL!! If you punch a threaded pin out you take the threads and material with it and nothing left to rethread with the same size. OMG!!
 
Mike, I'm not talking about a rocker pin (mid-blade). I'm talking about the blade pivot pin, that the blade rotates on. DM
 
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