Busse for actual combat

So overall, you folks dont think that a CG FBM would make a good choice...outside of general utility in the field...what about deployed as a SD blade.

Too big, thick etc... or not??

The FBM or FFBM would work just fine for me. My FFBM reminds me of an old Bolo I destroyed. Only on steroids. :cool: Yeah, that'd work ust fine.

(1) If I were going head to head with someone like we see in the movies :p then it's the AK all the way.

(2) If it's prison shiv in the back as I walk by time then I like the LMS or the NIP.
 
If we're talking slowish, staggering, flesh-eating zombies, I think you're on the right track.

Also, an FBM would likely scare the bejesus out of most folks if you start brandishing it in a threatening manner.

Sort of like this...

lanyardswingyMedium1.jpg


*Who is this fellow? I can't place him with his username for the life of me.

This picture scares me. :eek::D
 
Ammo is at www.doubletapammo.com all specs are there. The 10mm with correct loadings from doubletap.com are right on the money with a .41 magnum. Plus I will have 16 rounds as fast as I can pull the trigger. As for a good fighter There are many, Such as the RJ Martin 4-3/4 inch fixed blade. Among others. Anything light and fast. Blackwind, thanks. Your right. beartooth 200 gr loads are 1300 fps and 750 flbs
 
Here is a pic of me with my modified AK. I don't need backup
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.

LionOLooseSwordOrange1a.jpg
 
I would think anything with a heavier handle for a really quick blade.

It doesn't need to be strong, flesh cuts really easily (1lb of pressure apparently) so I think its more technique than knife.

Good grip, thin, fast, 4-6inch blade. I'd opt for a Leaner, or from the looks of things, a double edged Scrofa or similar.

I think this would be perfect, except the maker is a douche bag.

flurofighting2qh3.jpg
 
You dudes crack me up.... that pic of Jerry is pure gold.

Back to the OP's question:

The Leaner Meaner strikes me as the perfect fighting blade.

I know its a hoary old cliche, but the 9,5 inch knife left back in the safe cos its too dang big to carry ain't gonna do you much good on the street.

The LM is the ideal size for EDC and with that wicked upswept curve and stabby point its a perfect mid-size fighter IMO. It even has a very handy skull crusher.

If you are in a military scenario and able to carry out in the open, I would look at the Scrap Yard range. The Yard Guard or Yard Hook look like superb all-rounders to me.

Failing that, the Dumpster Mutt w/penetrator tip would be right handy in a dark Baghdad alley.
 
My ideal self defence blade would be the tali-whacker.

http://homepage.mac.com/zombiekiller/badmojo/tw.html
DSC04021.jpg

I JUST got one of those myself, and I 100% agree. I was planning on having some mods done to it before I got it, but now that it is in hand I can't think of anything that could be done to make the knife any better. It is not my most expensive knife, but it is my new favorite by a long shot!
 
My Mr MEFO feels quite fast in the hand. Plus it has the catcher/breaker. HOG FSH, and FFBM (in my gorilla hands) are between slow and stop speed wise. Since few MEFO's/ MOFO's (mine has rare etching mistake) were made, I'm sure many have not tried Mr Keatings hanging paper test with one. Actually a few corners of paper are all I can bring myself to cut with it. Its probably a decent chopper as well. (.220) 8 to 8 1/2" (CRS) sabre ground. Wickedly fast for the size. That being said training beats all....most of the time. Its been said "Treachery and OLD AGE" always overcomes youth and skill. Just steal some time. Carry 2 knives, pull one out, drop it convincingly and get'em with the other.
 
Also, what qualities in a knife make for a good fighter?

there are only so many things you can do with a knife in a fight.

slash - a fast cut (meaning there is a slicing action involved, it is not a push cut)
chop - a heavy perpendicular cut relying on either blade weight or arm weight
stab

push cut - (which can be a starter, where the blade is already on the person, your staring your motion from a stationary position with the blade on the target)
strike - (either punching with the handle giving your hand weight, or a pommel based hammer fist. this can also be slapping a person with the side of the blade or the spine)
leverage - where your using your blade to apply pressure to any given body part, either the blade itself, the flats of the blade, the spine, or the pommel


what makes a good fighter? depends on how your going to use it. a 4.5oz folder won't make a very good chopping weapon. something that's 2" long won't make a very good stabbing weapon. likewise, something that has a 14" blade may not make a very good stabbing weapon, you'll end up having to use it like a sword with thrusts as apposed to "stabs". if your going to be using your knife for non lethal pain compliance type action that has a lot of leveraging, something thats 1/32" thick extra flexible wouldn't work very well. how you are going to be using your knife will determine what general size, weight, and geometry is appropriate.

an 18" 32oz ang khola khukuri, a katana, a 4" fillet knife, and a 12" long, 3/8" thick bowie are all formidable fighters, if their various forms are utilized properly.


for me, there are prerequisites for a knife that I will personally carry if I intend to use it as a dedicated "fighter".
-I have to be able to carry it without anyone noticing it, that rules out anything longer then about 7" (blade length).
-the edge has to be long enough to reach the heart, lungs, and brain in a stab.
-it cannot have a choil (aboslutely worthless on a fighter - the only thing it can do is hang up on things. want your hand closer to the edge? then shift your gaurd.)
-it has to have a gaurd of some kind.
-i have to be able to index where the edge and tip are when completely blind.
-I have to be able to hold onto the handle when its slippery without thinking its going to rotate out of my hand if any pressure is applied to it.
-it has to have a thin edge, and a relatively thin tip, not excessive, but meant for cutting, not heavy abuse.

so, with those requirements there has never been a busse knife (during the production run, or custom that I've seen) that fits my requirements.

as far as weight, by having a thin edge and tip, being under 7" in blade length, and having a good cutting geometry, even the heaviest blade made to those parameters would be acceptably light. even if the tip is super thin, if your blade is 1/2" thick it's not going to penetrate through leather. maybe one layer, with a stab that has your full weight behind it, but even then you'll be pushing hard to get it through.

I ordered a satin jack tac with no choil and as thin as jerry would allow. to me, that is the perfect general edc user and fighter combination. well... depending on the edge indexing issue.

edge indexing means that you know where the tip and the edge is without having to look at it. as an example, if you were blind folded, and asked to put the tip of the blade into the table between your index finger and your middle finger (with your hand splayed flat on the table) - how likely are you to be able to do it without stabbing one of your fingers? if your guaranteed to stab your fingers, your unable to physically index the profile of the knife without looking at it, which is a sign that the weight distribution is too handle heavy, or the edge is in an abnormal shape or positon.
 
short answer - a steel/heat treat that can withstand a having a thin edge, a thin edge, secure handle, and a weight that is manageable given your level of strength.

everything else comes down to how you use it.
 
I never had to use a knife during my 2 combat tours as a U.S Infantryman, thank GOD, but I would definatly want to have a Busse if I went again.:D
 
Wow you guys... great info all around. After very little pondering I think I'd agree that the TaliWhacker would do the trick nicely. A Killer Bee would work nicely too. And while on that subject, anything in the Pure Bred Fighter line would be an easy first or second pick if I could actually get my hands on any of them.

As for thinning the blade out, how exactly do you thin out a Busse without ruining the balance? Every Busse I have owned is pretty much balanced as good as it gets, and it seems any removal of steel would mess that up. Any thoughts on this?
 
Wow you guys... great info all around. After very little pondering I think I'd agree that the TaliWhacker would do the trick nicely. A Killer Bee would work nicely too. And while on that subject, anything in the Pure Bred Fighter line would be an easy first or second pick if I could actually get my hands on any of them.

As for thinning the blade out, how exactly do you thin out a Busse without ruining the balance? Every Busse I have owned is pretty much balanced as good as it gets, and it seems any removal of steel would mess that up. Any thoughts on this?

send it to a knife maker :D

theres putting a thinner edge on it (cutting edge) and then theres thinning out the overall profile. if your just thinning out the edge, you can use any knife sharpener to do it, it just takes a while to accomplish. I like the edgepro systems because they are easy to use, the 100 grit stones can take off a lot of metal reletively quickly, and I can guarantee my angles are correct.

hand american makes some great hand sharpening products as well.

as for thinning the entire geometry, I will leave that to more experienced people. I've done some pretty silly modifications, but none of them were professional grade.


the pbf series of knives are built like tanks, with thick spines and thick edges. to get them to where they will actually cut with any proficiency, you'll have to remove a good amount of metal. especially near the tips.
 
I ordered a satin jack tac with no choil and as thin as jerry would allow. to me, that is the perfect general edc user and fighter combination. well... depending on the edge indexing issue.

edge indexing means that you know where the tip and the edge is without having to look at it. as an example, if you were blind folded, and asked to put the tip of the blade into the table between your index finger and your middle finger (with your hand splayed flat on the table) - how likely are you to be able to do it without stabbing one of your fingers? if your guaranteed to stab your fingers, your unable to physically index the profile of the knife without looking at it, which is a sign that the weight distribution is too handle heavy, or the edge is in an abnormal shape or positon.

Can I see a pic of this choil-less Satin Jack TAC? I agree, the choil is worthless - at least for combat purposes. They do snag on things quite a bit which is the same issue I have with pointed pommels.

How well balanced is this Satin Jack, since it was ordered "extra thin"? Are the handles thinned to compensate for the loss of blade weight? That may not be possible or advisable but without what you call "edge indexing" a knife is pretty difficult to use intuitively - for me at least. I have to feel like my knife is a natural extension of my body or else any playing/training/fighting seems to require more logic and less intuition, which basically means I'm better off unarmed. Balance or lack thereof plays a significant role in this, based on my experience.
 
Can I see a pic of this choil-less Satin Jack TAC? I agree, the choil is worthless - at least for combat purposes. They do snag on things quite a bit which is the same issue I have with pointed pommels.

How well balanced is this Satin Jack, since it was ordered "extra thin"? Are the handles thinned to compensate for the loss of blade weight? That may not be possible or advisable but without what you call "edge indexing" a knife is pretty difficult to use intuitively - for me at least. I have to feel like my knife is a natural extension of my body or else any playing/training/fighting seems to require more logic and less intuition, which basically means I'm better off unarmed. Balance or lack thereof plays a significant role in this, based on my experience.

*sigh*

someday. hopefully within 3 years from now :). I ordered it about a year and a half ago, so I'm not quite to the half way point of the expected wait time yet... well, the expected wait time I expect anyways. could take 5-7 years for all I know. we'll see. I've got 2 choiless thin ones on order, one based on the 3rd gen satin jack, and one based on the sjtac.

I don't know what they'll do with the scales. looking back, I should have based it on the badger attack. the satin jacks are a little long once you cover the choil with an edge. espectially the sjtac. but I'm quite positive that I'll like it regardless :D

attachment.php

this is a modification of a nick I did, wich was later modified to be recurved and thinner. in the form shown in the picture, I could not for the life of me feel out where the edge was unless I was looking right at it. the edge was just to low, and ended up torquing the blade to much in the hand when pressure was applied near the base of the knifes edge. the one I ordered will be recurved, and have slight finger cut outs (wich I kinda regret now, but I had never handled the tac handles when I ordered it, so I was just trying to make it more secure then the standard 3rd gen handle (wich I always had issues with)).

attachment.php


this is a rough photoshoped image of what a choiless satin jack would look like. I don't remember if I ordered my custom with a recurve or not.... huh. I honestly don't remember... I hope I ordered it with a recurve. oh well, I'm sure I'll like it either way...
 
LVC, assuming that the shop has NOT started on your knife yet, why not call Garth and clarify/modify your request?
 
Back
Top