The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details:
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is $300 $250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
Jack, those white orbs are reminiscent of puffball mushrooms. What are they, doppler radar arrays?
Thanks for the input, Jer. The outer bark seems quite easy to remove right now. Maybe I'll strip the bark now, then stick them in the garage until next summer.Some people say a year. Sticks that were full of sap when cut, like yours, will need longer to dry than ones cut in the winter. I have a couple I think are ready, that I cut last winter. The thin bark has wrinkled over the shrunken wood.
On the other hand, carving is easier on green wood. Maybe you could carve now and soak in water or oil repeatedly to prevent drying splits. (Never actually tried that, but I think the theory is sound.)
Debarking green could result in splitting from drying too fast. I think the safest thing is to paint the cut ends with something to seal them, and leave the moisture to escape gradually through the bark.Thanks for the input, Jer. The outer bark seems quite easy to remove right now. Maybe I'll strip the bark now, then stick them in the garage until next summer.
- GT
From "Story: I love sticks" thread.Oh always leave the bark on for drying. Take the bark off an uncured stick and put it away, and it will just crack up horribly. And for hornbeam and a few other woods, I leave the bark on anyway. I'll polish up the bark with 0000 steel wool, and stain and varnish.