Case Copperheads- pics and experience wanted

so for a spring to be flush closed and open the front and back of the tang has to be equidistant from the pivot hole. If I had to guess I would say the pattern die for the secondary features a pivot hole that isn’t centered. That might drive me to get the single blade version...
I have had a couple knives with proud springs but also noticeably downward canted blades. In those cases I found the back square of the tang was hitting the spring before it was flat against the tang. 20210131_150730.jpg
Filing it cured both the proud spring and the canted blade, may not be the case with these however. Either way with how the bolster is would make filing it a difficult task I believe.
 
I have had a couple knives with proud springs but also noticeably downward canted blades. In those cases I found the back square of the tang was hitting the spring before it was flat against the tang. View attachment 1501257
Filing it cured both the proud spring and the canted blade, may not be the case with these however. Either way with how the bolster is would make filing it a difficult task I believe.
I was looking at my slim trapper that exhibits both those traits and I’d had a similar thought- I’m going to give it a try!
 
Just got this in today. Fit and finish is smooth, blade to spring is a bit short , but I can live with that. My wife loved the color and for me the action is very smooth. I'm not a fan of half stops, but these are also very smooth .
As to the nail nicks, most of my EDC Traditionals are stockman pattern, so I'm used to opposite side nicks.View attachment 1501366View attachment 1501367
 
Does anyone here know anything about the history of, or the reason for, two different styles of 2-bladed copperhead patterns? Case copperheads usually have a big blade (clip or wharncliffe) and a smaller pen blade. But Böker copperheads usually have two big blades (clip and skinner). I'm curious about the difference.

- GT
 
Does anyone here know anything about the history of, or the reason for, two different styles of 2-bladed copperhead patterns? Case copperheads usually have a big blade (clip or wharncliffe) and a smaller pen blade. But Böker copperheads usually have two big blades (clip and skinner). I'm curious about the difference.

- GT
Can't answer your question, but Queen/Schatt & Morgan made them both ways in addition to single blades.
The two blade S&M I have has a pen secondary with the nail nick on mark side. Its not as convenient as one might think, however. To access the nick on the primary, the pen has to be depressed. Its just as awkward as having the nicks on opposite sides. Not a Case, but here are pics anyway :)
S&MCHMicarta.JPG
micartacopperhead1.JPG
 
Thanks for the info, Mike; it's interesting that S&M has made both "flavors" of copperhead.
I know that Robert Klaas, Hen & Rooster, and Rough Ryder have made the Böker-style clip/skinner copperheads.

- GT
 
I'm loving all of these pictures, keep them coming! I wish Case was releasing a CV Copperhead with a wharncliffe blade this go around. I guess that gives me something to look forward to the next time Case pulls these out of the vault though. :)

As it stands, I'll be grabbing one of those peach seed jigged, amber bone CV versions the moment CollectorKnives drops them. With any luck that'll be March or April right when the baby is due. Dad's deserve a "push present" (apparently that's a thing now) too right?
 
As it stands, I'll be grabbing one of those peach seed jigged, amber bone CV versions the moment CollectorKnives drops them. With any luck that'll be March or April right when the baby is due. Dad's deserve a "push present" (apparently that's a thing now) too right?

Are you expecting? Push presents are a thing, but I personally can't stand it. The gift is the bundle of joy.

I'm also eyeballing the same amber bone. If I do get one it's either the amber bone, or the yellow synthetic. It mostly hangs on whether or not I feel like gambling that I'm going to end up sending it to JSDiston to have him make it perfect. If I do, I'll just get the synthetic covers and let him recover it in something better.
 
J jsdistin What do you think about these "proud-when-open" springs?
Is that something you could fix by filing off the tang while it was disassembled?
Does blade play require re-dimensioning the thickness of the spring, or is it as simple as tightening the joint?

regarding the knife pattern, this is one of the nicer patterns, and it looks well conceived. If it's a matter of execution I wouldn't mind having someone make it perfect. Those clip points look great, and the pen blades look sizable too. it's the only thing that's really keeping me from pulling the trigger.
287C4ABA-2F6C-4F96-85EB-29744E90534F.jpeg
A is what I would expect to see when opening up a knife, where filing the tang where the arrow on the right is would drop the spring but also raise the blade shown in picture B Where the arrow on the left is filing that down would be difficult to do correctly and may have unforeseen consequences for the blade movement and positioning when open. I have never done that. If it were like picture C you could file down the tang in the cross hatched area and it would lower the spring and not change the position of the blade. Knives are made the way they are in the first picture to allow for the adjustment of the blade in the open and closed positions by filing the tang or the kick. They usually only make contact with the spring at two distinct points so the tip of the blade is adjusted when making any tang adjustments. It looks like in most of the pictures the blade is in a good position when open and adjusting it by filing the tang as in the first and second pictures it might bring up the tip too far. All of this would require taking it apart and the best results would be if there was some room for the blade tip to go up and for it to still be straight at the spine.
 
@JSDiston - thanks for that! I think that's about as clear as an explanation gets. I think you're right for this pattern- there's no way to do that modification without taking it apart.
 
J jsdistin What do you think about these "proud-when-open" springs?
Is that something you could fix by filing off the tang while it was disassembled?
Does blade play require re-dimensioning the thickness of the spring, or is it as simple as tightening the joint?

regarding the knife pattern, this is one of the nicer patterns, and it looks well conceived. If it's a matter of execution I wouldn't mind having someone make it perfect. Those clip points look great, and the pen blades look sizable too. it's the only thing that's really keeping me from pulling the trigger.
Oops, blade wobble is most likely as simple as peening the the joint tighter and then finding the sweet spot between free movement and wobble. Sometimes it is a bigger issue that needs to be addressed like a spring that’s thicker than the blade or a bent spring or a tang that is thicker at one end than the other. As far as the back spring being proud in these I hate to say it but I would consider getting more than one and returning the inferior ones. A proud spring usually doesn’t bother me though it means the spring is providing more tension making the blade less likely to close accidentally.
 
287c4aba-2f6c-4f96-85eb-29744e90534f-jpeg.1501747
Thanks for that illustration.
Now I have a clear picture of what's being discussed.
 
I didn't have the success I typically do in crinking the main blade........ I got it to move a bit but it still lightly touches the liner..... Possibly the tang is harder than normal??.... I'm going to leave well enough alone....... Maybe next time I'm going through Bradford I'll stop in and see if they can give it a quickie crink job.......

This is a picture of the main blade to liner collision..... The more I look at it I believe the blade is curved rather than misaligned with the tang..... I'm afraid if I reef on it too hard I'll snap the sucker....... I'm leaving well enough alone.:):thumbsup:
20210201_115809.jpg
 
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