CBM's - Customized Benchmade's

Its been a while since I posted this one... Chad Nichols stainless damascus on BM45 handles.

 
When you guys make custom scales, do the clips screw directly into the scale? Or is there some kind of nut (I'm thinking about my BM 530) behind the scale? I think my biggest fear holding me back would revolve around this.
 
When you guys make custom scales, do the clips screw directly into the scale? Or is there some kind of nut (I'm thinking about my BM 530) behind the scale? I think my biggest fear holding me back would revolve around this.
Quite often the clip mounts drilled and tapped directly into the liners.
So, drilling holes through the scales are all that is needed.
When they aren't in the liners; I use some form of captive nut.
Do a search for "EZ-Lok".
Once you have correct sized hole drilled; you can drive the nut in using a steel block and a hammer.

 
Quite often the clip mounts drilled and tapped directly into the liners.
So, drilling holes through the scales are all that is needed.
When they aren't in the liners; I use some form of captive nut.
Do a search for "EZ-Lok".
Once you have correct sized hole drilled; you can drive the nut in using a steel block and a hammer.

Thank you! I've been wanting to do something different with my mini-barrage. I've been looking around blindly without any luck. Turns out "EZ-Lok" may be the search term I've been missing.
 
With a barrage, you can always drill and tap the liners for the clip. That is what I have always done. Just use slow rpm and don't let it get too hot. The liners drill reasonably easy with a small diameter drill like that.
 
My Latest custom attempt:

IMG_3890.jpg


IMG_3885.jpg
 
A drill press; with step bits for the pivot and screw holes.
A drill press; with standard bits for the axis hole.
A dremel for the spring recess.

I'm guessing the step bit used for the pivot is a 1/8" to 1/4"? I'm gearing up for a scale build and has planned to use standard bits, but was concerned if the pivot pin would sit correctly. I concerned the taper of the drill bit when relieving from 1/8" to 1/4" will prevent the pivot from sitting flush in the hole. A step bit being more square at the transition; less taper may work better.
So is it a 1/8" to 1/4" step bit?
 
I'm guessing the step bit used for the pivot is a 1/8" to 1/4"? I'm gearing up for a scale build and has planned to use standard bits, but was concerned if the pivot pin would sit correctly. I concerned the taper of the drill bit when relieving from 1/8" to 1/4" will prevent the pivot from sitting flush in the hole. A step bit being more square at the transition; less taper may work better.
So is it a 1/8" to 1/4" step bit?
I'm guessing this is for a 707?
I have not been able to find the correct step bit for a 707's pivot.
I like to use step bits when I can.
But, I can't always find a step bit in the sizes I need.
So, I use brad point bits.
Brad points have a small tip, followed by a larger flat.
The tip itself is shaped somewhat like a step bit.
I drill a small pilot hole (so my other bits dont wander)
Then my counterbore, using a brad point bit (= to screw head diameter).
[Be careful, sometimes the pivot screws head is a slightly larger diameter than the pivot posts head]
Then I drill my through hole.
A standard bit/tapered bit works best for the through hole, for self centering puposes.
If you dont have a set of dial calipers/micrometer...get one.
They are essential to the process.
 
Yes, thank you. I should have thought of the brad point bits. I didn't know thats what they were called, but I have used them before and know what you are talking about. I have a mic (old but fucntional) and need to upgradd to a electric dial caliper.

It seem you assumed I had not actually measure the pivot and if so, you would be correct. I have been thinking of what I would need to do, but have not "sat down" with the project as of yet. Will definately break out the old mic for now.

Once again, this thread and your advice are very helpful.
 
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