Crosscut Saw Thread

Hi Dave.

It sounds like you have found yourself a Disston.

I did view the pictures, that may be the keystone logo you see and describe.

To further clean and possibly reveal more of the etch that may still be there, try using a high grit, 330 sand paper on a block with a very liberal amount of WD or 3inONE, vegg oil, kerosene as the medium between the sandpaper and the blade. Using long, full length strokes dont scrub or sand from top to bottom. Only length wise and be sure to use a proper medium to avoid scratching the blade and removing more of the etch.

Give that a try, check out Warren Miller Sawyer videos put out by the U.S. Forest Service.
Part 1 has great information pertaining cleaning a crosscut.
They are a 5 part series, if you have not yet viewed them, grab a coffee and enjoy! I learn more each time I watch.
 
Thank you for hte input Miller '72, I will try to update as i progress.
Unfortunately the handle that came on the big one is rotted beyond repair, and hte hardware (it came with two styles of handle attachments) is rusted too much to budge in the threads.

I thought i would re-post those two pics of the etch, as well as a couple others of my progress.

Got these three saws for $100, spent a weekend restoring the first felling saw, now i am working on the big fat one (is there a term for not-a-felling-saw?)
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the bucking saw cut like a dream!
didn't even clean the teeth and it was like butter through some seasoned rounds i had laying around.

thanks for the tip phantom.
this weekend i will spend some time with the Dremel shining up the teeth and gullets, and try not to touch the edge too much, it is rather sharp!!

I am really looking forward to cleaning the shorter perforated lance tooth, it is the rustiest of the three saw i got, and i expect will be my favorite for cutting fresh pine around here.
more pics to come!
 
I think you have some beautiful saws there and if you take the time and steps now, a little maintenance along the way, each will outlast your ability to use them :D:cool: :thumbsup:

How long is the perforated lance tooth you have there?

Have you had a chance to check out Warren Miller?

There is also a member here you will find great and informative regarding crosscut information and techniques, Jim Thode.
Check out the past posts in this thread and you will see some of his videos he posted here. Very helpful.

Glad to see you out there saving these saws
:cool:
 
I appreciate your input trailtime! That felling saw IS a big guy, part of why I chose not to mess with filling it yet :) it does look very good with nicely swaged rakers. except for rust the edges are sharp, maybe the sanding will clear it up enough.
Just getting to first stages of cleaning the perforated blade
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I started to clean the Henry Disston 20" back saw I picked up the other day. It came in the same lot as the Stanley SW Mitre Box but they came separately, not offered to me as a combination. They would not be the pair/combination sold together, as this mitre box is the model 244, the 24 X 4 backsaw combo. There is a model 240 that came with the 20 X 4 saw like I have. I am fairly positive my friend did not know and or think to connect the dots. I dont think it was known when offered:cool:

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:cool::thumbsup:
 
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I have a very nice Stanley 244 that a friend gave me. It was her grandfathers. I found some info on it.

cedarriverforge.com/Photo-index/Tools/Stanley%20Miter%20Box/Mitre%20Box%2019-246,%202358.pdf

cedarriverforge.com/Photo-index/Tools/Stanley%20Miter%20Box/mboxman.pdf
 
I have a very nice Stanley 244 that a friend gave me. It was her grandfathers. I found some info on it.

cedarriverforge.com/Photo-index/Tools/Stanley%20Miter%20Box/Mitre%20Box%2019-246,%202358.pdf

cedarriverforge.com/Photo-index/Tools/Stanley%20Miter%20Box/mboxman.pdf

That does sound really nice, well taken care of then and now I am sure.
You said NO244. I have the 244. Very Cool!
If you dont mind at your convenience posting up a picture or two of yours...I am very excited to get into mine :)

I have the Stanley SW catalogue from '35 that lists all the parts for it so I should be golden if I need anything :D:D

Thank you for the links, when I return tonight I will defiently be taking a look ;):cool::thumbsup:
 
Here's mine. I need to make a correction. Mine is a Stanley 2358.

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A great mitre box indeed. Are those brass top stabilizers on the uprights?
Definitely looks more free for use, no tie bar required to catch a sleeve or your line of sight, but keeping with the mechanics that have been proven over time.
That saw is badass I must say. 25"?
 
The back actually measures 27-1/2 but the cutting teeth measure 28". Mine moves freely, raises and lowers easily and stops at all the presets reliably. The saw is sharp to the touch and cuts well but not exactly like a freshly sharpened saw. I imagine it has been sharpened a few times. My friend's grandfather was a contractor and would have used this saw back in the day. It still makes a nice cut.

Having some server issues tonight. I'll post another pic when I'm back up.
 
Those miter saws are super cool... I've seen some in years past but wasn't collecting old tools yet so i didn't grab em. This was my first purchase. It's pretty rusty and pitted but the teeth are surprisingly okay. The handle was really beat up and broken so i made one out of black walnut. I had not yet learned how to sharpen a saw properly so i didn't join it, shape or swage the rakers, didn't clean It polish the gullets and i didn't sharpen the teeth properly. But i did make a pretty handle for it! Hahaha. I need to revisit it but I've been busy with axes and my other two saws. I'll post those sometime. I'm not sure of the maker and they're wasn't a medallion on the old grip. Steel is VERY hard!
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if i had known then what i know now i probably would've saved the effort for a better saw. Oh well!
 
Don't know if this has been addressed before and I'm sure there are other ways to do this. FWIW

Sometimes you run across a saw bolt that no longer wants to hold in the handle and when you try to unscrew the nut the bolt/nut just spins and does not unscrew.





Bob
 
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