David Beck W.S.K. vs. TOPs "TRACKER" round #1

Thanks Vermonster. I am definitely keeping my eye on this post. (I am also re-reading through some of my Tom Brown books, so that's another reason why I am so interested in this)
 
Vermonster, I ordered my WSK last week. Dave said I should have it within a month or so. As I aforementioned the TOPS seems like a really different knife so I would like to keep it. Financially it'll be tough, but I'll just stick to a healthier diet.( no eating out). Approximately where does the taper start on the handle. By the picture it looks to be nearer the tailend. Thanks for your input.
 
Here is a little taste of things to come.
(This is fire bow, spindle/drill and fireboard construction)
All components, except the bow string and antler bearing, were constructed with the Beck. The SAK did the small notching on the fireboard and bow only. The fire board and spindle were constructed from very dry cedar branch. The fire board was split out of and planned from the widest end of the branch with the "draw knife" portion. The spindle, which is from the actual heart of the branch, was split and carved out of a piece about 2 inches across, worked down at first with the "draw knife" and then the "hook" to shape it into the round it is now. I get very fast and very good results with the heart of a dry ceder branch.

The "hook" portion makes the job very easy. Combined it took all of about 20 minutes to find and make the components. Much more to follow!

(I have a picture of the above but need someone to post it for me.)

greenbladepb,
You are all set then. I would cut back on the chow and keep the TOPS if I were you. The taper starts were the slabs begin, its a very faint(?) taper all the way to the end.
 
Well, it's official, in 4 to 6 weeks I'll have my very own W.S.K.!
I'm currently making my own companion knife for it.

"Survival, that's the Game" -Lewis Medlock aka Burt Reynolds
Click to expand...
 
VM, thanks for the update. I'm really leaning toward the WSK plus the companion knife. It's a healthy price, but I'm sure it will be worth it in the end. I like the "big knife" abilities in a smaller package. Something that will ride easier on the belt and be there when needed. How does the saw portion function compared to say, the saw on a SAK? I would assume it is best suited for notching and not sawing clear through wood.
 
A big thanks the AlphalphaPB, the pic will be up later in the day.

J.P.,
I have to see the companion knife when it's done.
 
tknife,

You will not be disappointed if you get one. It seems like a healthy price, but I think you will see its worth it in a long run when you get it in your hands.

The saw works very well. It is however much thicker than the SAK so it takes more work to get through. The saw is primarily for square notches. Turn the blade to a 45 deg. angle and you can make perfect V notches.

But, the saw will go through stuff very well, again it takes a little work. The Beck is the best sawback I have ever used. It works better than my old Robert Parrish survival knife, and that was an awesome sawback.

This weekend I will use the saw on both the Beck and TOPS to cut soft wood (wet and seasoned),hard wood (wet and seasoned) and what ever else I can find laying around and time myself with a stop watch.
I will have pics of this as well.
 
Very nice review Vermontster. I'm going to have to take a closer look at these. Thanks for taking the time, and posting your observations...
 
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Guy's,

Please keep in mind that the spindle is the core of a thick branch. (notice the darker color of the spindle compared to the fire board which is the softer outer layer of the branch) It was not very round or straight as I split away the outer layers. My point is this; the almost perfect straight and round product that was achieved from the Beck.

Thanks for the compliments. The pleasure is all mine.


Much more to follow
 
VM- Another great pic! That leather really does look great.
PK- I just checked out your site, you have made some great little utility knives. I like your custom Crain. I used to have a Crain MCS, but ended up selling it.
 
Thanks TKnife. I've been friends with Jack Crain for 13 years now. I have a Life Support System Hunter on the way, should be here in 2 weeks. I'll let you all know how that one performs. I had him change some features on it for me. The MCS is a great knife. I got to play with the one Arnold used in "Predator".
 
That's why I wanted that knife, I love that movie. I bought it thinking I would use it, but when it finally arrived, I couldn't bring myself to use it. Hung onto it for a while, but I'm a user, not a collector. So I ended up selling it at a knife show. I wish I still had it though. Love to hear how your Hunter performs when you get it.
 
J.P. and tknife thanks,
I used Beeswax. First I heat the leather up with a hair dryer. I Then apply the wax in a thick coat. I then hit it with the hair dryer until it absorbs into the leather. I then wipe off the excess, if any, and place the knife back in the sheath, then the whole deal goes right into the freezer. When it's cold I pull it out.

WARNING:
According to the literature that Dave sent with the W.S.K., he states that his sheaths require no application of anything as they are already treated before shipping. He also advises against the use of saddle soap and the like as it softens the leather to much and compromises the friction fit between knife and sheath. Not what you want for a friction fit sheath.

I have found that the Beeswax does three things, it impregnates the leather and is like added insurance against moisture, it also protects the blade while its in the sheath and last it stiffens the leather and in my opinion makes the fit tighter. I guess the by product is the look. I love it.

J.P.,
Which one is the LSS Hunter?, does that have the 7 inch blade or is it a smaller 4 inch (skinning kit I think it was called)??
I love Jack's knives. I had the LSS 1 in carbon steel, I should have got the stainless version. I ended up selling it.
 
Yeah, the LSS Hunter is the 7" blade hollow handled knife with sawteeth. I'm getting mine without the sharpened false edge as I like to "push cut" alot when using knives and if the false edge is sharp there's no where to push. I'm also having a lanyard hole drilled through the butt cap and it'll have a full flat grind.

I've used beeswax alot in my winter boots, that Sno Seal stuff and I like the way it works. I might try it on another sheath first. I like using Renaissance Wax on my knives and leather goods. It's expensive, but it's suppose to be a great protector on metal and leather and it's clear.

Later guys...
 
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