Edge Pro Matrix resin bond diamond stones

777 Edge said:
I use a Nagura to clean / condition mine regularly between sharpening sessions and it works very well.
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Are there different sorts or grits of the Nagura stones, i have seen one for sale on a website for about $12, it is a yellow color, but i have never used them before, does this sound like a good deal.:thumbsup:
 
Diemaker,

What lapping regimen would you recommend if I have access to both loose grit & a nanohone nl8? Maybe just use the nanohone when your Diamond Matrix stones obviously need lapping, and loose grit in between visual evidence of a stone not being flat?

What is your personal opinion of nanohone nl8?

Thanks,

Brian W.
 
cudgee said:
Are there different sorts or grits of the Nagura stones, i have seen one for sale on a website for about $12, it is a yellow color, but i have never used them before, does this sound like a good deal.:thumbsup:
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What you're referring to is probably the King Japanese Nagura. It's listed as 8000 grit, but that's irrelevant and doesn't really matter too much when used for cleaning & conditioning. The King Nagura will work perfectly fine for cleaning & conditioning and they are normally only about 10 bucks. Works just as well on Venev stones too.
 
BWYO said:
nanohone nl8
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While Nanohone say that you can dress resin bond diamond stones on their button plate I wouldn't. The diamonds in the stones will grind flats on the diamonds in the dressing stone, greatly reducing its cutting action. I have yet to find a way of dressing the Matrix stones that is even close to working as well as loose abrasive on a flat plate, it is dirt cheap and only takes seconds to do.

While Nagura stones do work to clean resin bond diamond stones I still haven't figured out whether they refresh them or not, but I am sure that the coarser the Nagura stone the better it will work. The idea is they release grit quickly and the loose abrasives are what do the cleaning.
 
Diemaker said:
While Nanohone say that you can dress resin bond diamond stones on their button plate I wouldn't. The diamonds in the stones will grind flats on the diamonds in the dressing stone, greatly reducing its cutting action. I have yet to find a way of dressing the Matrix stones that is even close to working as well as loose abrasive on a flat plate, it is dirt cheap and only takes seconds to do.

While Nagura stones do work to clean resin bond diamond stones I still haven't figured out whether they refresh them or not, but I am sure that the coarser the Nagura stone the better it will work. The idea is they release grit quickly and the loose abrasives are what do the cleaning.
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So, loose grit is the best way, bar none.

Thanks,

Brian W.
 
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I got one of the 2ā€x6ā€ 20 micron stones from Gritomatic.
This really is an awesome stone.

So far I have only sharpened K390 and REX 45 and it really took steel off these blades effortlessly.
It is is a little strange to be using only edge trailing strokes but the results are well worth it.

Once I dig it out I really want to see how my Manix2 in Maxamet feels on the stone and how quickly it will cut.
If anyone is on the fence about these I say give them a try.

The base of aluminum is very well done and the divots on the ends work well with the regular stone holders.
 
I received notice from Edge Pro Inc.: "Moving forward we will be discontinuing our 650, 1100 and 2300 grits, and replacing them with the following NEW grits: 450, 950, 1700"

D Diemaker what are the particle sizes of these new grades?
 
40, 20, and 10 microns respectively. The grit progression is now 160, 80, 40, 20, 10, and 5 microns or as marked on the stones themselves 80, 250, 450, 950, 1700, and 4000. It's not a big change but worthwhile going forward.
 
60 grit SiC or 240 grit AlOx to dress the new 450 stone?

Edit: the answer from Diemaker's web site is the 60 AlOx or fresh 240 AlOx.
 
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Lately I've spent most of my time freehand sharpening kitchen knives, but pulled out the TSPROF Kadet and Blitz 360 and tried some different stones on some of my carry knives. I had both the Poltava Premium CBN stones and the Hapstone Premium CBN stones and tried a couple knives. While I got some nice edges, both the scratch marks and polish looked off. It's hard to explain, but it's like a blurry polish instead of a clean one.

I pulled out Diemaker's stones (I have the old set progression with the 650, 1100 and 2300 grits) and redid the last 2 knives with the full set from 80 to 4K. I'm *pretty* sure I dressed these once with the loose grit, but that was a while ago.

Not only do the Diamond Matrix stones cut WAY faster, but the edges and polish that you get from these stones is absolutely the best I've found from any stones (CBN or otherwise) I've tried. They work well and clean up easily with a Mr. Clean magic eraser, rust eraser, Nagura, or just amonia free glass cleaner and your thumb. Also coming off the 4K stone the edges rivaled what most edges look like after stropping with 1 micron. Iā€™ll have to try the tape strop trick next time to see how that brings up the polish.

These stones are imprssive, and should last a lifetime. Hindsight being 20/20 I wish I would have just stuck with these and not bothered with anything else!

I might have to pick up some of the bench stones later on, as I'm sure they will be just as impressive.
 
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Happiness is a set of freshly dressed stones!

I used the 3 grit set from D Diemaker 's website along with my old Edge Pro lapping plate. Total time from setup to tear down was less than an hour. It's a pretty simple and efficient process once you get going, although it sounded like I was murdering the 160m stone with that 20 grit!

Finished product shot:

LSNUXMS.jpg
 
Not sure if this is the correct place to post this. If not, please move/delete as needed. To help relieve my state of confusion concerning steels/stones, want to ask a couple questions. Everyone seems to understand/know what is a soft steel vs hard, except me (LOL). Is there a hardness cutoff? I have the 250 thru 1700 matrix stones. I use the Hapstone R2. These are the knife steels I have:
Aogami Super
White #1 & #2
Swedish Stainless (JKI knife)
VG-10
M390
AUS8
Nitro-V
14c28N
12c27M
XC-75
420HC

Which steels should I avoid using the DM stones on, if any? I have looked at the Chosera 6x1 stones and then thought about the need for both. If more info is needed, please ask. I really appreciate any help/advise. Thanks.
 
I don't think you need to avoid sharpening any of those steels with the matrix stones. I do know that I can sharpen the 420hc, asu8 and 14c28n on alox stones and natural stones. So if you want to "save" the matrix stones for harder steels then you could. I have also sharpened all of those on a DMT plates. I have never sharpened the white steeles or the arogomi super. I believe the sweedish stainless is similar if not the same as 14c28n, but I am sure some else who knows more will be along shortly. The rest are harder steels that I would recommend diamond stones
 
bobrap said:
Not sure if this is the correct place to post this. If not, please move/delete as needed. To help relieve my state of confusion concerning steels/stones, want to ask a couple questions. Everyone seems to understand/know what is a soft steel vs hard, except me (LOL). Is there a hardness cutoff? I have the 250 thru 1700 matrix stones. I use the Hapstone R2. These are the knife steels I have:
Aogami Super
White #1 & #2
Swedish Stainless (JKI knife)
VG-10
M390
AUS8
Nitro-V
14c28N
12c27M
XC-75
420HC

Which steels should I avoid using the DM stones on, if any? I have looked at the Chosera 6x1 stones and then thought about the need for both. If more info is needed, please ask. I really appreciate any help/advise. Thanks.
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What is a hard or soft steel depends on your experience and like everything knife related, it just depends. All of the ones you listed will be fine with the Matrix stones, but the harder carbon steels the better, the softer stainless is at the other end. It seems the "gummy" stainless doesn't like to cut but more move around. The best analogy I can come up with is plowing a field. Good carbon steels plow like the dirt is just moist enough to plow well. Stainless cuts like the field is too wet so the dirt balls up around the plow making a mess. Under my microscope I can see this. The hard steels have a nice scratch pattern and the too soft steels, typically stainless, the scratches have formed edges where the diamonds displaced the steel instead of removing it. In my experience aluminum oxide stones just work better on softer, gummier steels than diamonds. I am thinking steels around 50 hrc or below you shouldn't use diamonds on, both for the health of the diamond stones and the quality of sharpening. I have a few knives in this range but since they don't hold an edge very well I don't use them, which saves needing to sharpen them.
 
Thank you very much. Exactly what I was hoping to hear. Didn't want to buy another set of stones if not needed. Reviewing my knives, I believe the softest steel is 56HRC (12c27M). Thanks again for the info.
 
I haven't posted on the forum for a long time. I just picked up a complete set of the DM Stones directly from Edge Pro. I just finished reading the whole thread from page 1 lol. One question I have is about developing a burr with the DM Stones, especially with the low grit stones. I've been sharpening for a long time with different systems and that's the only way I know when I've reached the apex from heel to tip. I then move to the next grit up and repeat with lighter and less strokes as I progress to final stropping. So what do you guys recommend?
 
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