Educate me on the Puukko.

Don't tempt me. If there is one thing I have, it's too many projects. I have to prevent myself from accumulating too many.
 
puukkoman said:
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Beautiful!

Here is my modified Wolverine... nice wood, much better in hand

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HFinn said:
About the Wirkkala-puukko: I have seen in Finnish puukko literature how this puukko is considered something of a failure. Nice looking, but slippery in the hand especially in wet conditions and rather angular and uncomfortable in the hand. I have handled one and sorry, but I agree. The traditional shapes, especially with birch bark or leather handle are WAY ahead of Wirkkala in ergonomics.

One thing that bothers me with some puukko's is that the handles are warnished, making them slippery. If I bought a puukko finished this way I would remove the coating and dip the handle in oil, wait untill dry and then buff it with cloth.
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Thank You for the impressions on the Wirkkala. I will save my money and figure out how to get one of those knives made by Joonas Kallioniemi, his knives that I have seen pics of seem to have the most pure and pleasing lines to them...
 
This is a hard decision. I think I'm going to start with a budget model because I plan to use it in the woods and see how I like it.... even then there are so many choices. :eek:
 
Woodrow F Call said:
This is a hard decision. I think I'm going to start with a budget model because I plan to use it in the woods and see how I like it.... even then there are so many choices. :eek:
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Im really enjoying learning about puukko choices with you, thanks for the discussion.

There are a number of handle distinctions we have already talked about, and the choices that seem to rise above the rest, for me, are birch bark and Tommi handles with long slender barrels.

The next distinction that has captured my attention is the amount of blade bevel, and again for me the Tommy stands out, it has what I would term a very high bevel, more than 2/3ds of the width of the blade is beveled.

Another feature I find, for whatever reason, particularly appealing, is for the blade edge to go all the way to the bolster, with no ricasso. This feature is not available on the two lowest priced bark handled offerings. Which are pictured below, the first on the left and the one with the Leuku flared pommel. The other two, which are outstanding examples, cost twice as much as the entry level ones.

Here is a quiz, should you find that entertaining, figure out the names of the four puukkos shown, for your own education. Im not asking anyone to post the answer, in fact, I don't think you should, its more of a challenge that way. But, if you give up, email me, and I will tell you what I believe they are, and where to get one.

halfaxe said:
I would recommend a birch bark handled puukko. Very traditional and as far as I know, only used in puukkos. It has a unique comfortable feel that is unlike any other material.

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I would also like to highlight the outstanding proportions of kamagong's Tommi. Thanks for the beautiful images and shared knowledge, everyone.

btw, what is the blade and handle length on this one:

kamagong said:
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then theres the question of proportions of blade length and handle length.. I use 95/110 as a starting point of reference, a ratio of blade to handle of 86% blade.

this one is 85/99, which coincidentally is also 86% blade. It looks to have about 75 layers of bark. It would be a grail knife for me:

tuohi_and_sheath.jpg
 
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@Woodrow: if you plan to keep price low, but want to experiment already the rhombic section I'd suggest you to go for a YP-Taonta puukko. Handforged blades by Antti Mäkinen (Yrjö Puronvarsi grandson) and knives made with ready made parts.
Here you have an article about him and how he forges.
http://nordiskaknivar.wordpress.com/2013/01/13/yrjo-puronvarsi-blades-yp-taonta/

@jon_slider: may I reply about the four puukkos and Tommi proportion? ;)
 
There must be a reason I never see these for sale used. I suppose everyone with one considers them keepers.

I'm in the same boat I think Woodrow finds himself in --- how the heck can I narrow it down to which one when the only criteria I've been able to come up with is I want it correct (a real puukko) and less cost is better (but not the most important)?
 
leghog said:
There must be a reason I never see these for sale used. I suppose everyone with one considers them keepers.

I'm in the same boat I think Woodrow finds himself in --- how the heck can I narrow it down to which one when the only criteria I've been able to come up with is I want it correct (a real puukko) and less cost is better (but not the most important)?
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Glad to notice puukkos gathering so much interest and knowledge!Let me help you with narrowing it down - these are all made in Finland, most of them are real puukkos, starting from less expensive ones ending with handcrafted puukkos http://www.lamnia.fi/items.php?lang=en&sgid=5&sin=61&instock=1&oby=pric e&mcid=1
 
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ainmal said:
Glad to notice puukkos gathering so much interest and knowledge!
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Thanks!

Is curly birch a traditional handle material for puukkos? Though not in any rush, I like this one:
Ahti Jänkä
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Stainless steel, HRC 58
Handle:Curly Birch
Guard / ferrule / bolster:Nickel silver
Overall length:7.64″
Blade length:2.95″
Blade thickness:0.12″
Weight:3.069 oz
 
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leghog said:
Thanks!

Is curly birch a traditional handle material for puukkos?
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Yes, I think curly birch or just birch are the most traditional handle materials. If you would like to have the most traditional puukko, select the one with carbon steel blade.
 
sitflyer said:
Thank You for the impressions on the Wirkkala. I will save my money and figure out how to get one of those knives made by Joonas Kallioniemi, his knives that I have seen pics of seem to have the most pure and pleasing lines to them...
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Joonas has his own take on the Wirkkala puukko.

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image by Joonas Kallioniemi

- Christian
 
^^ That right there Chritian! I knew I had seen an image of one before...Thank You for that photo :)
 
Brian Andrews makes a real nice full stick tang puukko in A2, antler/curly birch and leather spacers. Its to purty I need to break down and use it lol :rolleyes:




 
Frederick89 said:
@jon_slider: may I reply about the four puukkos and Tommi proportion? ;)
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Thanks for all your thoughts Frederick, I look forward to learning more from you. I was a teacher for many years, and still act like Im in charge of running the class. But Im just a student here, possibly the one with the biggest mouth, so yes of course I would be honored to learn more from you, please.

kamagong said:
Joonas has his own take on the Wirkkala puukko.
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The Large Wirkkala has an 86% blade ratio and very pleasing proportions (102/118 I believe). The problem with the Wirkkala for me, is that the handle is synthetic material and the blade is stainless steel.

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As a frame of reference regarding blade to handle ratios, my Peanut is a 75% blade, my Charlows are 77% blade.
 
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Here is a Scandinavian knife I got off the auction site a while back. I think maybe Norwegian so not strictly a puukko. It has a straight sheath is why I guess Norwegian but perhaps an expert here knows more about this. Birch bark handle.
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[URL=http://s201.photobucket.com/user/Mindokwin/media/DSC01129_zps21717b50.jpg.html]
A nicely chamfered pommel
[IMG]http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa136/Mindokwin/DSC01129_zps21717b50.jpg[/URL][/IMG] The blade has a swedge almost the whole length and a slight drop at the point. Very well made and good steel.
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I'm going to make a neck lanyard and wear it snowshoeing this winter.
 
jon_slider said:
btw, what is the blade and handle length on this one:

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It's a fairly standard size. Being handmade there are small variations from piece to piece, but this one's specific measurements are a 93 mm blade, 203 mm OAL.

jon_slider said:
then theres the question of proportions of blade length and handle length.
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Per Sakari Pälsi

Puukko is small, alltogether about two palm widths long, and it's length is divided almost in half between the blade and the handle.
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jon_slider said:
...75 layers of bark. It would be a grail knife for me:

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It's not simply a matter of the number of layers. You'll also want to take into account the thickness of the layers used. For example -

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image by avoidspam

- Christian
 
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