First HEST/F in Australia? Review and pics

[mqqn]

Thanks mqqn. I would suggest that if you can't slip a piece of cloth into the gap, you aren't trying very hard. As your picture shows, the gap is sufficient to slip say, a piece of string or dental floss or thin wire into that gap and have the exposed tip cut it. If the tip couldn't cut it (thin wire?), it could be opened by it (wire?).

After posting my previous, I went and grabbed a handful of folders (about 7 or 8) from the top of my bureau to see if I could make any of them catch a piece of cloth, or string, or floss with the exposed tip. A few Case models, Spyderco models, a couple of Kershaws, a couple customs. I tried and tried, but I couldn't get any of them to snag on anything no matter how hard I tried to get a piece of cloth or string or floss or wire etc. in between the exposed tip and the scales... for one reason and one reason only. Because none of those knives (Case, Spyderco etc.) have any tip (at all) exposed between the tip of the blade and the scales.

At any rate, I am pleased that Lionsteel is "fixing" this issue even though some don't see it as something that needs to be "fixed". Good on them. :thumbup: A Lionsteel knife may yet be in my future and I wish them the best in this learning experience.

I hope that you, or someone else will show us some pictures when the production models hit the street.

Hi Tim -

I agree with you on the string etc, you could get that lodged in there, but if it is in your pocket then that is not likely in my opinion. As with you, I do not have any other knives that have any tip showing, so none of my other knives could catch a string or floss etc.

Interesting that you mention this, as it is kinda related.

I had a winter coat on the other day, and I have been carrying the HEST/F.

I felt for my knife, and it was gone! I got that panicky "omygoshmyknifeisgone" thing going on, and started thinking.

Well, I had taken my coat off and threw it in the back seat of my truck, and when I took it off, the HEST clip had snagged the cinching string on the bottom of my coat, and the knife was dangling from the string!

I suppose that could happen with most any knife, but that was a first for me that I can recall.

best regards -

mqqn

 

[UDT-SEAL]

Molto scarso controllo di qualità .........
Qualora non hanno mai lasciato la fabbrica.
L'uomo medio in tutto questo sarebbe servito se stesso e la fabbrica, dicendo la verità e mantenere con i clienti .....
Mine tornerà in acciaio LION appena il mi mandi un indirizzo di mandare indietro
Mi rifiuto di inviare per l'uomo medio non mi fido di lui ............

 

[mqqn]

that looks like its beyond my tweaking abilities but thanks.

cricket

Hi cricket -

That is not good -

I tried to re-create this on my example and it does not have any issue - How much pressure are you putting on the spine?

Mine locks up solid, and I don't have to use the roto-block to keep it locked.

I'll be watching for that; it is a bummer that you are having the problem.

best regards -

mqqn

 

[Tripton]

after seeing the comment that it closed with pressure on the back i took a look at mine. with moderate pressure you can see the titanium lock moving over so the knife will close, it looks like the lock is not engaging very well or is cut badly, that is very disapointing i've really been enjoying the knife so far. i wonder if this is typical of lionsteels folders? anyone have a sr1 how is the lockup on it? it dosnt do this of course if the rotoblock is engaged i would have thought that the thick titanium lock was enough to hold the blade open. back to being frustrated.

bummed
cricket

Mine does that too...

Interesting.


I cant get it to actually close, but it does wiggle a bit when moderate/hard pressure is applied to the spine.


On the plus side, it wouldnt really be an issue when gripping the knife, because your hand pressure should keep the blade locked open. It also will not do it when the roto-block is engaged.

Obviously, it shouldn't be doing this, but I have seen the same thing happen in a few framelocks/linerlocks with steep lockfaces.

 

[cricketdave]

it wont do it if i open the blade fast and hard, but just a normal 2 hand opening it sure does. i wonder if the lock is just too sloped on the blade. if i wave it open its solid as can be, just gently open it and it can be pushed on hard enough that the lock slides to the side. thats why i wondered about the sr1, is this a lionsteel thing or just this folder. do all their locks mate up like this.

cricket

 

[Karda]

it wont do it if i open the blade fast and hard, but just a normal 2 hand opening it sure does. i wonder if the lock is just too sloped on the blade. if i wave it open its solid as can be, just gently open it and it can be pushed on hard enough that the lock slides to the side. thats why i wondered about the sr1, is this a lionsteel thing or just this folder. do all their locks mate up like this.

cricket

It is a known problem with the mating surfaces between blade and liner lock. It should be a warrantable issue.
For DPx owners contact :

If there any problems just contact customerservice@dpxgear.com

 

[Horn Dog]

I just got word from TKC that my my HEST folder will be shipping soon. It has supposedly been tuned by Gianni, so maybe it will be ok.

 

[Soulrack223]

I just got word from TKC that my my HEST folder will be shipping soon. It has supposedly been tuned by Gianni, so maybe it will be ok.

That's where I'm at with the whole thing too. After asking him, Dale e-mailed me that he'd be checking them for these issues before he ships them out.

 

[Noctis3880]

it wont do it if i open the blade fast and hard, but just a normal 2 hand opening it sure does. i wonder if the lock is just too sloped on the blade. if i wave it open its solid as can be, just gently open it and it can be pushed on hard enough that the lock slides to the side. thats why i wondered about the sr1, is this a lionsteel thing or just this folder. do all their locks mate up like this.

cricket

No sir. My SR-1 is locked up like a tank at about 50% and doesn't budge an inch. Of course, the titanium slab seems to have an unholy amount of tension and it hurts my thumb to disengage the lock. But no amount of spine whacking or trying to muscle the blade closed(within reason, because I don't want to lose any fingers) will disengage the lock.

I would send the thing back.

 

[PunisherLcr]

How is the lockup on your knife? I have been using mine for almost 2 weeks and the lockup is rock solid. Did the frame lock not move over enough to fully engage. Just wondering what would cause something like this. Show us some pics if you can of the lockup when open.

Here's a couple of pictures of my lock up:

And a quick video I did (sorry about the poor quality):

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=prviyp3rb74

For some inexplicable reason, shortly after this video was taken the knife began to lock up solid again. Got a PM from Gianni about getting the problem fixed, but now it's locking up I'm not sure I want to go to all the trouble of shipping it all the way to Italy. Very confusing and odd.

 

[mqqn]

Hi PunisherLcr -

Well, I am sad to report that I after I watched your video, I am able to re-create your issue on my HEST.

I can grab the blade while locked, and work it back and forth until the lock-bar dis-engages and the blade is allowed to close.

I think this is due to the relatively steep angle of grind on the back of the blade tang where the lock-bar engages (as cricket stated above).

I do have to work to get the lock-bar to dis-engage, but I do not have any other knives that I think I could get to act the same way.

It should be noted that I have not changed anything since I received my HEST, i.e. I have not altered the stop pin or any other part of the knife.

I will watch to see what the response is from Lionsteel, and until then, I'll be using the roto-block to ensure the knife does not accidentally unlock.

Thanks for posting your video.

best regards -

mqqn

 

[GianniLion]

For some inexplicable reason, shortly after this video was taken the knife began to lock up solid again.

Maybe it was afraid to come back to Italy..

It is very strange, usually with Titanium we have the opposite problem, the locking-bar locks into the blade.
Has the locking bar power enough?
bend it and let me know if the problem is still there.

The main problem with frame-lock is to chose the power of the loking bar.
I personaly prefere strong one, but most of them they want soft.
A frame-lock, with a strong preloaded locking bar, is more difficult close the blade but have a stronger locking.
In any case it is easy to bend the locking bar and let the locking system have more power.

 

[JTC3495]

I wanted to see if I could recreate any of these issues on my HEST & fortunately for me my knife does not disengage. I did a spine wack test on my work table and the blade continued to stay locked.

I wonder if the lock bar tension may be the issue for you guys with the closing issue (like Gianni just stated). At least DPX & Linonsteel are fixing the concerns that are arising.

 

[1234]

I wanted to see if I could recreate any of these issues on my HEST & fortunately for me my knife does not disengage. I did a spine wack test on my work table and the blade continued to stay locked.

Speaking of spine-whack tests , I do three whacks ,
one on the furthest back ,
one in the middle and finally one at the tip ,
if the blade don´t close then it passed .

Reason I mention this is some knives will pass middle or
back whacks but then fails when you whack the tip .

Oh , and keep your fingers clear !

1234,,,,,,

 

[cricketdave]

ok, i did as suggested took the knife apart and bent the bar over a bit. that fixed the issue, it wont close with pressure to the back now. i have to ask though and not being a prick, did these go through any quality control at all?

this is nothing to do with ryp, this is all a issue from the manufacture, tip, and frame issues.

i still really like the knife it just seems like problems that should have been caught before shipping.

take it easy
cricket

 

[timcsaw]

Speaking of spine-whack tests , I do three whacks ,
one on the furthest back ,
one in the middle and finally one at the tip ,
if the blade don´t close then it passed .

Reason I mention this is some knives will pass middle or
back whacks but then fails when you whack the tip .

Oh , and keep your fingers clear !

1234,,,,,,

The best test for folder lock strength I've ever seen, was done by hanging specific weight from the tip, then "whacking" the back of the blade with a known measure of impact. Then add more weight, "whack" again (same impact as previous), add more weight, etc. until the lock actually fails. This gives some fairly reliable data as to how strong the knife lock actually is, because the test is measurable and repeatable.

I don't remember which company does this test (or if it even was a knife company, may have been an independent lab), but it really did show what the lock could handle ("lock failed at XX weight").

So if someone who owns a HEST/F wants to run the test, I'd appreciate knowing how it fairs against say, a Sebenza and a LionSteel SR-1. Just let us know when the locks fail and fold and at what weights.

 

[JTC3495]

The best test for folder lock strength I've ever seen, was done by hanging specific weight from the tip, then "whacking" the back of the blade with a known measure of impact. Then add more weight, "whack" again (same impact as previous), add more weight, etc. until the lock actually fails. This gives some fairly reliable data as to how strong the knife lock actually is, because the test is measurable and repeatable.

I don't remember which company does this test (or if it even was a knife company, may have been an independent lab), but it really did show what the lock could handle ("lock failed at XX weight").

So if someone who owns a HEST/F wants to run the test, I'd appreciate knowing how it fairs against say, a Sebenza and a LionSteel SR-1. Just let us know when the locks fail and fold and at what weights.

Sounds good send your Sebenza over to me and I will see how it does compared to the HEST.

 

[timcsaw]

Sounds good send your Sebenza over to me and I will see how it does compared to the HEST.

My bad... I should have been clearer; "If SOMEONE ELSE wants to run the test with THEIR HEST, Sebenza and SR-1 etc. etc."

 

[brownshoe]

I had the same problem with the ti liner lock on a custom. It would lock strong, then it failed one day with moderate pressure on the spine. It failed again and again. I cleaned it, it failed. I was pissed, put it away in my knife box for a few weeks, contacted the maker to send it back, got it out, it was fine. We both laughed and thought I had a magic box. The maker said this problem and spontaneous fix had not happened before.

I used it hard, didn't fail, then a few months later, I had the same problem, failed consistently. Knife was as tight as a drum, no play in any direction, but the lock would close with pressure or spine-whack. I started flicking it open with a big thwack. Did this a few times, and the lock held. Did it a few more, lock held. It's held ever since for over a year...Why don't ask me. I am not a materials engineer or a knife maker. However, the polished tang that touches the liner now has a dark mark that is not removable with a cloth or polishing compound.

 

[jacktrades_nbk]

the wire striper jimping looks more rough than it feels and does strip wire very well.
cricket

stupid question... but what technique do you use with the notches to strip wire ?
haven't needed to use that yet anyway, and i was wondering if there is a special way to use those notches for their intended use, or is up to the user..just pull it off in whatever way you can, using those little holes and their edges...
thanks