Flashlights

As I said, "all other things being equal, we probably can't visually discern any difference in brightness between 200 and 250 lumens."

Can you see a 50 lumen difference going from 10 to 60? Yes, you can. Can we honestly distinguish brightness between otherwise identical lights with one having a high of 250 and one having a high of 200? Not likely. Of course you can see brightness changing as you rotate a knob or click a switch from low to high, that isn't what I am saying. MRaymond posted one person's understanding of the brightness index as it pertains to the human eye.
 
Final Option said:
Roger that RDA, it came with a Duracell CR123, Henry says you can use rechargeables in it which will boost that 250 even higher.
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I have been a fan of the AW IMR rechargeable cells as I have previously noted, great output, good storage and safe chemistry.
 
FO, Thanks for that picture of the SWM and HDS next to one another. It gives me a decent idea of the difference in width. I am not sure if you have already, is it possible to post a couple more pics of the two (or send an email if you prefer) next to one another? Thanks!
 
MRaymond said:
FO, Thanks for that picture of the SWM and HDS next to one another. It gives me a decent idea of the difference in width. I am not sure if you have already, is it possible to post a couple more pics of the two (or send an email if you prefer) next to one another? Thanks!
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If he's not able to post those for some reason I can put HDS clicky in raised and flush button, a raised 200 rotary and a SWM v10r, maybe 11 (don't remember off-hand if I own one) side by side and post them this evening.
 
MR here is the comparisons, don,t have a flush button clicky though.

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For those interested in reading such things and consequently educating oneself in the process - I would encourage you to visit Henry's site (HDS systems) and read his research and white papers one of which addresses "How the Human eye perceives brightness". Makes for good bathroom reading as well as settling the race for lumens (IMO).
Just one of the reasons I like his stuff so much, not only is it built and performs like a Hinderer but, much like Rick is in his chosen profession/passion - Henry knows his stuff about things that go "bright" in the night.
Good lesson in Life.... When you are interested in something, seek out the true visionaries and read and ask and - Listen. Never learned anything from the sound of my own voice but.... listening to those who Really know - different story ;)
 
Need2Know said:
Friendly FYI, just repeating your opinion in bold does not increase its accuracy.
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You truly are a piece of work. I repeated my comment prior to trying to clarify my point based on some of the subsequent responses.

By all means though, you are clearly more knowledgeable about flashlights and lumens/lux/brightness than I.

I apologize for interrupting Need2Know's flashlight thread "with my opinion", please return to assisting him find his elusive grail illumination device.
 
My understanding of brightness comes from going outside when it's dark and what I have read. The former is country boy common sense and the latter is science.
Brightness of a flashlight or the discussion thereof is a little like debating sharpness in a knife.
What's bright? Whats sharp" In a light, is it throw, flood, lumens, lux - did you get to see what you needed to see?
With a knife, is it toothy edge, stropped edge, push cut, paper cut, did you cut what you needed cut?
I dunno.
According to an expert - Human perception of light requires a Doubling of the output in order to register in the brain as "Holy Crap, that is brighter"
20-40-80-160-320 and so forth.
In the HDS rotary the "steps" are designed to be 1.4x (2.0 would be double) output doubles, your friends say, "Whew!! where's the beer" and your run time cuts in half and the band plays on.
Not sure if this "exercise" is helping. As I often say, "Is this juice worth the squeeze?"
 
Here, for your size reference:

SolarForce L2M, HDS flush-button Clicky, PhotonFanatic Groovy!, McGizmo SunDrop XRU, 4-Sevens QuarkX 123, EagleTac D25C Ti Clicky and Maratac Cu AA. I somehow missed the Maratac Cu CR123 in this shot.

The Maratac 123 in the previous shot is 2.77" long; the AA is 3.19. The HDS Executive Clicky is 3.62. I don't own a SunWayMan.



Here's the Clicky next to the Maratac Cu 123
 
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muphasta said:
Any reason not to pick up a Maratak single AAA or AA light? Not a criticism for those that can/do, but I cannot spend more than $50 for a light. I spend more on other things than some of you would so I understand spending on quality.
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The AA in stainless is a great EDC, Ive carried that light on calls for over 8 years, and its never let me down, works well in cold temps, and has a decent amount of useful light, now it even has a glow in the dark o-ring behind the lens which is a cool idea. I only recently tabled it for my HDS.......... I recently got the copper 123, and that is also an amazing light, i'm very happy with the output, and the interface is not bad, a strip of teflon tape on the threads helps keep it from rolling on in the pocket, as someone here in the forum aptly suggested (thank you for the great tip) and you can go even further with bicycle inner tubes stretched over the two sections ala ranger bands,,,,,,

I'm still waiting for my Rotary HDS, Thanks for the great post FO! I hope I luck out and get a 250!! maybe I'll give Henry a call on monday.....but I don't want to be a pest!....I'm now about to venture into the 200-250 posting fray! I just wanted to answer MUPHASTA"s question first before reading on.....LOL!
 
I once thought the growing o-rings were interesting...but then I started to think about practicality. In that they require light to charge the glow and the decay is relatively quick.

So, what's the benefit for GID o-rings and clicky button covers / boots? Tritium has a practically since it shows in no/low-light and helps to locate the light or it's controls...that I can understand.
 
Truthfully no benefit at all......unless it was on and is now off and you put it down within ten minutes, and its pointing in your direction, and....were still talking about GID O-rings right?....oh yeah, yes we are....No I'm with you N2K GID is little more than a novelty medium, I love the stuff and have GID O-rings on my lanyard beads, and have GID paracord as lanyards, and ......Ive never been able to find anything without a light!!!! I own a MARATHON SAR with maraglow, and that is a quality piece of GID kit, I didn't want the TRITIUM because all of my TRITIUM watches were over ten years old and the vials were dead, so I went with a watch I could carry for twenty years or longer and still read at night..... but that said GID in any other form for me is just a novelty with meager bragging rights to the uninformed... But...... I STILL WANT A GID HINDERER SCALE!!!!!!!!!!!
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I won't knock anyone for GID like, it's a personal thing similar to one's choice in some jewelry. In my mind both serve similar practicality, but both are loved by some. To each their own. I bought a light or two that arrived w/ GID o-ring(s)...I just haven't used it/them much and I think they are sitting in their original packaging and collecting dust.
 
wowcoop said:
The AA in stainless is a great EDC, Ive carried that light on calls for over 8 years, and its never let me down, works well in cold temps, and has a decent amount of useful light, now it even has a glow in the dark o-ring behind the lens which is a cool idea. I only recently tabled it for my HDS.......... I recently got the copper 123, and that is also an amazing light, i'm very happy with the output, and the interface is not bad, a strip of teflon tape on the threads helps keep it from rolling on in the pocket, as someone here in the forum aptly suggested (thank you for the great tip) and you can go even further with bicycle inner tubes stretched over the two sections ala ranger bands,,,,,,

I'm still waiting for my Rotary HDS, Thanks for the great post FO! I hope I luck out and get a 250!! maybe I'll give Henry a call on monday.....but I don't want to be a pest!....I'm now about to venture into the 200-250 posting fray! I just wanted to answer MUPHASTA"s question first before reading on.....LOL!
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Thanks for the input and quick review.

I think I'll be getting one now. I have the two AA Extreme and it is pretty decent.
 
FO, Thanks for the pic! I appreciate the comparison shots! The HDS is a bit bigger but not too much.
 
Hds Rotary"s in stock now, i just picked one up of the silver bezel and flush clicky button.
if your interested email/pm me.

Scott
 
Henry said the Website would be ready to accept new orders, including custom orders about now/soon.
 
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