Grinder in a box! DIY grinder kit

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@PolarBear

Can you provide the dimensions for the base and the main upright when assembled. Here's what I'm thinking...

I would like to have them welded up, and then Parkerized as a finish.

I would need the dimensions if it was upright or lying on it's size to find a solution tank for it.

What do you guys think about Parkerizing for this Gadget?

I'm also thinking Powdercoating.

Great lookig Grinder concept!
 
quick question my motor doesnt have a base plate just the front mount is this gonna be a problem?

thanks

jake
 
Thanks Les! If it's just the main upright and base, then the tank would need to be at least 14 x 10 x 12. I haven't seen one parkerized yet. It would be interesting to see what it looks like if you go this route. I don't have much experience with parkerizing, but have seen many powder coated pieces. I think either would be fine.

Jake, A face mount motor is fine. Two of mine are that way. I welded the main upright in this case just for a little insurance.

Jamie
 
Where are you guys gettinf the indexable 3/8 levers at are they anything special? The ones like Blindhoggs.
 
I'd have to go look to see if they're the same, but I've gotten them from msc and enco. If you do a keyword search on adjustable handles, you'll find them.

Jamie
 
Quick question, I just ordered my grinder in a box yesterday and know it will take a few weeks to get here even though its only an 8 hour drive away from me. What I would like to know is how people are finishing their grinders, as it what type of paint, or are they powder coating them? I am thinking about getting mine powder coated, but if there is a good paint that will stand up to the environment I may go that way
 
Epoxy paint ;)

That is what you normally find on industrial tools..
 
I hadn't thought of it either, but all that I can find locally in google searches other then floor paint is VHT roll bar and chassis paint
 
unky_gumbi said:
I hadn't thought of it either, but all that I can find locally in google searches other then floor paint is VHT roll bar and chassis paint
Click to expand...

Alpha Garage Floor paint can be had in small lots I think.

alphagarage.com

Don't know how it would work on metal though.
 
I believe that you could ask paint supply stores (sherwin williams) for your application and they will point you in the right direction. I looked into this to restore my Bridgeport 9x42 mill but have not yet advanced past this stage.

To add- I think that most of the paint supply stores actually formulate the epoxy (colors and such) in house, so that is where I would start.

HTH

Bill
 
Got my kit today, about a week earlier then I thought I would. Thank you for selling such a high quality piece of equipment. I should have it up and ready to run by the end of December.
 
How is everyone mounting the contact wheels to avoid friction on the wheel bearings? I thought about using a 3/16" bushing to avoid friction from the bolt head, but wondered if anyone had another solution.
 
lustrum said:
How is everyone mounting the contact wheels to avoid friction on the wheel bearings? I thought about using a 3/16" bushing to avoid friction from the bolt head, but wondered if anyone had another solution.
Click to expand...

I would also like input into this. I am running into the same "problem" I got my wheels from sunray if it makes a difference.
 
I've been thinking about this for a bit. Personally, I've never ran into this but I know why. I've always built mine left handed, so loosening was never an issue.

Once I've finished building them, I also use either a threadlock, a jam nut, or a nut with an insert so that they won't loosen. I also add a washer of sorts between the head of the bolt and the inner bearing race so that I can tighten in the correct spot.

On my homemade wheels, I took a page from the book of Beaumont Metalworks, and put a sleeve inside the wheel that I can tighten the inner bearing races against so that everything is nice and snug.

Jamie
 
Jamie,

I am not worried about tightening but more what goes between the contact wheel and the platen so the wheel doesn't run against the platen. The bolt head on the "outside" of the wheel runs against the bearing but the other side needs something to space the wheel from the platen. I was thinking of just getting a long enought bolt to put an extra nut in there. A standard size washer for that bolt is too large and will contact both the bearing and the wheel. I can take pics later to explain if necessary.

Nathan
 
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