Grinder in a box! DIY grinder kit

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Tried to use BBcode to correct for image size but this forum doesn't support that code. (most don't) Not a problem, Photoshop to the rescue, fixed.
 
This is off of Dealerselectric.com. Is this what I would need for a 2hp 3 phase motor? Anything else I would need?

2 HP 230 Volt -- USE AS A PHASE CONVERTER PLUS GET VARIABLE SPEED, Model FM50-202-C, Single Or Three Phase Input-Three Phase Output
Item#: FM50-202
 
I stayed up late reading the unfortunate original thread and this one today. I have a small 1"x42" JET. It works for a hobby machine but if I upgrade in the near future it will be this GIB. Oh and I was wondering is anyone using a 110v 1.5hp motor?
 
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I second that question i will be running a 1.5 motor wired for 110.

will i need to have the grinder rewired to go ccw like you do on the NWG?

thanks

jake
 
I think the recommendation was that you go 2 hp but 1.5 would work at a minimum. Because it is direct drive the thought is that you will not want the 1750rmp motor but you should get the 3450 rpm motor.

As far as wiring it you can build the grinder like Nathan (Silver_pilate) and have the motor on the other side. Or you will need to make sure your motor spins the correct direction or that it is the kind of motor that is reversible.
 
just so happens my motor is 3450 so i have that covered :)

ok i am sure wiring it to go CCW is no big deal on this motor

cool i just need cash!!!

jake
 
So I am almost done putting together my grinder and ran into a few issues I didn't think about.

I have the 3 very thin "spacers" that I don't really know where they go between all of the larger spacers for the tooling arm.

I got my wheels from sunray and will be using 1/2" bolts to attach them to the platen. The bolt head riding up against the middle of the bearing is fine on the outside but the other side will need a spacer? A washer is too large and will cause a binding. Has anyone else used sunray wheels on a grinder and what did you do for the mounting?

A little bit different but similar...... the tension arm upright and the tension arm are connected bu a 1/2" x 1 1/2" bolt but should there be something between the arm and upright to reduce friction or just let them ride against each other?
 
The spacers are for the tooling arm slots, depending on what material you use for the tooling arm(s), you might need the spacers to make the slots wider. I got by without using them, the square tube I had was slightly rectangular, fits into the slots one way but turn it 90 degrees and it won't fit.
I used a nut between the wheels and the platen assembly/tooling arm. I had some spacing/alignment issues with both the small wheel attatchment and the platen assembly, partly due to the short shaft on the motor I had.
I have the tension arm bolted directly against the upright, with a washer on the back side of the upright.
 
Justin King said:
The spacers are for the tooling arm slots, depending on what material you use for the tooling arm(s), you might need the spacers to make the slots wider. I got by without using them, the square tube I had was slightly rectangular, fits into the slots one way but turn it 90 degrees and it won't fit.
I used a nut between the wheels and the platen assembly/tooling arm. I had some spacing/alignment issues with both the small wheel attatchment and the platen assembly, partly due to the short shaft on the motor I had.
I have the tension arm bolted directly against the upright, with a washer on the back side of the upright.
Click to expand...

That makes a lot of sense for the spacers. I haven't tried to put my tooling arm in yet but now I will know what to do when I do and it doesn't fit.

I was thinking of using a nut on the other side for the wheels. I guess I was worried that if I did use a nut on the other side I would have to worry about it being tightened down too much and putting sideways stress on the bearings. I also was worried about alignment issues with the wheels being out too far. It seems like the shaft on my motor is going to be short but I guess I will find out. It is the standard 56c frame motor shaft so I think I should be fine.

I figured putting the upright and tension arm together would be fine so good to know.

Thanks!
 
You do want to be sure you are not pinching the bearings too tight with the nut, but it's not that difficult. Get everything snugged up with just a little sideways play on the bearings, and adjust it down in tiny increments until the play is gone. With new bearings you may have to adjust the play out of them again after they break in.
 
I've been dwelling here for quite a while picking up knowledge and now looking into getting the gear to give knife making a try.

I like this Grinder-In-A-Box. Looks to have all the bells and whistles for a great price. Would the below motor work on the GIB? It's 2HP 3Phase 56C Frame 3600RPM with base mount. I'd attach it to a Teco FM-202-C. Does the shaft have to be a certain length and how does the drive wheel mount to the shaft?

http://www.electricmotors.com/56c_f...56c_frame_three_phase_motor_atj2-36-56cb.html

This noob appreciates the help!
 
Most people would shoot for a 1750 RPM motor I believe. Perhaps someone else who actually has a grinder can chime in...
 
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