Having my first Busse made! ...need a sheath and sharpening info.

I'm really talking about ease of sharpening more then results, but okay :)

Enjoy your new knife!
 
Great choice for your first Busse. They are a BAD TO THE BONE USER THAT WILL BEG YOU FOR MORE.
 
That's actually a jungle green coat. The black coat on black something is here:
BOSS_Jack_CG.jpg

The green coat is very smooth. The black is a crinkle coat and is more textured.

You sound like me when I first ordered :p I was expecting second thoughts from you. If you're like me anymore, third thoughts... fourth thoughts... you have some leeway time to make modifications to your orders so make up your mind quickly!
I went something like this: Black on black paper Micarta with choil > black on black G10 with choil > double cut on black G10 with choil > double cut on black paper Micarta with choil > double cut on black paper Micarta without choil. Amy and Lexi were pretty, uh, patient with me.

Personally I like Micarta, and I like solid colors more. The layers of alternating colors of most G10 isn't that cool to me, so black G10 is OK in my book, too.
 
uyotg said:
That's actually a jungle green coat. The black coat on black something is here:
BOSS_Jack_CG.jpg

The green coat is very smooth. The black is a crinkle coat and is more textured.

You sound like me when I first ordered :p I was expecting second thoughts from you. If you're like me anymore, third thoughts... fourth thoughts... you have some leeway time to make modifications to your orders so make up your mind quickly!
I went something like this: Black on black paper Micarta with choil > black on black G10 with choil > double cut on black G10 with choil > double cut on black paper Micarta with choil > double cut on black paper Micarta without choil. Amy and Lexi were pretty, uh, patient with me.

Personally I like Micarta, and I like solid colors more. The layers of alternating colors of most G10 isn't that cool to me, so black G10 is OK in my book, too.
Click to expand...

Haha! Yes, I am quite indecisive when it comes to new things. I do know I want a choil and I HATE Micarta (not trying to rain on anyone's parade...personal preference is all). As I said I have it on my ESEE-5. I just have no idea what G10 is like because I never felt it. I just want the grippiest option. Best texture I've felt is the Kraton on CS knives but I know Busse doesn't offer anything like that.

Is there more than one option aside from Micarta in regard to texture?

Also, as far as "double cut"...is that the dull stainless looking finish? Why is it called that instead of silver/stainless/grey? Does it cost extra? Is it personal preference?

Thanks for that pic. I'm guessing that is what I ordered and I love it look-wise.

Thanks!:)

-Emt1581
 
Double cut is media blasting :

Paper, Linen and canvas micarta. Imo G-10 has the least grip.
 
richstag said:
Double cut is media blasting :

Paper, Linen and canvas micarta. Imo G-10 has the least grip.
Click to expand...

Media blasting...as in corn hull pieces or wood pieces? Does it cost extra? What is the function of it?

I'm going to need some help with the grips...paper...I can't help but ask why it is called that? Same with Linen? Which is the most grip in your opinion?

Sounds like G10 isn't for me.

Thanks

-Emt1581
 
I don't know specifics, resinguy may. I just know they blast it with two types of media. I have one with it. Its a nice non-glare semi rough finish.

I would rank linen and canvas about the same grippiness. Either or feels nice. Linen feels a little cushier if that makes any sense.

G-10 feels very hard and gets slippery when wet. Micartas do not. Linen and canvas are the materials if I undertand the construction correctly.

Paper feels the closest to G10 to me.

Hope it helps and maybe someone will come along with technical specifics.
 
richstag said:
I don't know specifics, resinguy may. I just know they blast it with two types of media. I have one with it. Its a nice non-glare semi rough finish.

I would rank linen and canvas about the same grippiness. Either or feels nice. Linen feels a little cushier if that makes any sense.

G-10 feels very hard and gets slippery when wet. Micartas do not. Linen and canvas are the materials if I undertand the construction correctly.

Paper feels the closest to G10 to me.

Hope it helps and maybe someone will come along with technical specifics.
Click to expand...

Linen and Canvas eh? Never felt either. But as for G10...slippery when wet is wonderful in some areas of life but knife handles would not be one of them IMO.

I appreciate the info and we'll see what others say.

Thanks

-Emt1581
 
Lmao, good luck. Resinguy is well, a resin guy. He will be able to give you lots of info on this stuff.
 
Don't worry too much about rust on INFI. I soaked an INFI blade in phosphoric acid for 3.5 hours until it dried off from the surface of the metal. The result was some staining and what appeared to be an extremely thin layer of black corrosion. What little of the apparent corrosion that didn't wipe off with a blue Shop Towel, buffed off with a sewn muslin cloth wheel (charged with white rouge) rotating on a buffer. There was still some stain on the metal, particularly at the perimeter of the areas that were originally sprayed with the acid. That staining is to be expected.

I earlier tried to stain that INFI knife with boiling vinegar, which is a way to induce a patina on non-stainless steels. It didn't affect the INFI at all.

Overall, INFI is a surprisingly corrosion-resistant metal in my experience.

(edit to add) As for "shaving sharp" edge, a consideration to make is what kind of cutting you wish to do with your new knife. There are two kinds of cutting that call for two different kinds of edge.

(1) Slicing soft materials (meat, tomatoes, soft fabric, eggplant, bacon, etc) where you saw forward-and-aft (or do a draw cut) with the knife's edge. This type of cutting is helped out by sharpening to a coarser grit finish than the second type of cutting. Finishing to a coarser grit leaves microscopic-teeth-like serrations on the cutting edge. Those little teeth snag the soft material and facilitate the edge tearing the material, allowing progress to get made.

(2) Push-cutting hard materials (carving wood, chopping stiff veggies like carrots & to-a-lesser-degree potatoes, shaving fuzz-sticks for firestarting, shaving hair from your arm) where you are mostly pushing a single section of the knife's edge through a rigid resistant material without fore-and-aft sawing motion. This type of cutting calls for a very polished edge for optimum performance. In this scenario, having micro-teeth on the edge works against you. The micro-teeth can collapse and approximate a rolled edge at the microscopic level. A polished edge where all the burr'ishnes is removed presents an edge much better suited to this type of cutting.

Which kind of edge you sharpen for is determined by which type of cutting you intend to do. HTH.
 
Last edited:
RokJok said:
Don't worry too much about rust on INFI. I soaked an INFI blade in phosphoric acid for 3.5 hours until it dried off from the surface of the metal. The result was some staining and what appeared to be an extremely thin layer of black corrosion. What little of the apparent corrosion that didn't wipe off with a blue Shop Towel, buffed off with a sewn muslin cloth wheel (charged with white rouge) rotating on a buffer. There was still some stain on the metal, particularly at the perimeter of the areas that were originally sprayed with the acid. That staining is to be expected.

I earlier tried to stain that INFI knife with boiling vinegar, which is a way to induce a patina on non-stainless steels. It didn't affect the INFI at all.

Overall, INFI is a surprisingly corrosion-resistant metal in my experience.

(edit to add) As for "shaving sharp" edge, a consideration to make is what kind of cutting you wish to do with your new knife. There are two kinds of cutting that call for two different kinds of edge.

(1) Slicing soft materials (meat, tomatoes, soft fabric, eggplant, bacon, etc) where you saw forward-and-aft (or do a draw cut) with the knife's edge. This type of cutting is helped out by sharpening to a coarser grit finish than the second type of cutting. Finishing to a coarser grit leaves microscopic-teeth-like serrations on the cutting edge. Those little teeth snag the soft material and facilitate the edge tearing the material, allowing progress to get made.

(2) Push-cutting hard materials (carving wood, chopping stiff veggies like carrots & to-a-lesser-degree potatoes, shaving fuzz-sticks for firestarting, shaving hair from your arm) where you are mostly pushing a single section of the knife's edge through a rigid resistant material without fore-and-aft sawing motion. This type of cutting calls for a very polished edge for optimum performance. In this scenario, having micro-teeth on the edge works against you. The micro-teeth can collapse and approximate a rolled edge at the microscopic level. A polished edge where all the burr'ishnes is removed presents an edge much better suited to this type of cutting.

Which kind of edge you sharpen for is determined by which type of cutting you intend to do. HTH.
Click to expand...

Well I certainly learned something tonight!!

As for the cutting I do it is by FAR more draw cuts than anything else.

Thanks!:)

-Emt1581
 
Oh another question...

Does the finish affect anything? That is, will a double cut finish yield any advantage over black? Maybe with sharpening, splitting wood, making thin cuts, etc...

I do have a SY Regulator with a black finish. The edge was horrible to begin with so it's been kept hanging in my vault. I can't speak of function but if Busse's are the same I know what it looks/feels like but not function.

I like the look of both black and double cut. But I'm too new to the brand to know if there are any functional differences tween the two.

Also, will they do a double cut on a CGBJ? What does it cost extra?

Thanks

-Emt1581
 
emt1581 said:
Oh another question...

Does the finish affect anything? That is, will a double cut finish yield any advantage over black? Maybe with sharpening, splitting wood, making thin cuts, etc...

I do have a SY Regulator with a black finish. The edge was horrible to begin with so it's been kept hanging in my vault. I can't speak of function but if Busse's are the same I know what it looks/feels like but not function.

I like the look of both black and double cut. But I'm too new to the brand to know if there are any functional differences tween the two.

Also, will they do a double cut on a CGBJ? What does it cost extra?

Thanks

-Emt1581
Click to expand...

When done correctly, double cut is a way to get the raw steel look without the reflectiveness of satin yet still have some good corrosion resistance. Personally, I just like the way it looks.

I don't think there's much real practical difference between the two. It's not fair to say the black coat is any thicker because each knife is ground by hand I believe (evidenced by some inconsistencies I've seen among BJs), but the black crinkle coat has a lot more texture to it that could hold... stuff. Bacteria is one big concern for those who use their knives with food. Double cut's pits are microscopic, but it still has the same concerns though I don't know of anyone getting sick with INFI poisoning.

The double cut finish on the CGBJs were an extra $60 if I remember correctly.
 
uyotg said:
When done correctly, double cut is a way to get the raw steel look without the reflectiveness of satin yet still have some good corrosion resistance. Personally, I just like the way it looks.

I don't think there's much real practical difference between the two. It's not fair to say the black coat is any thicker because each knife is ground by hand I believe (evidenced by some inconsistencies I've seen among BJs), but the black crinkle coat has a lot more texture to it that could hold... stuff. Bacteria is one big concern for those who use their knives with food. Double cut's pits are microscopic, but it still has the same concerns though I don't know of anyone getting sick with INFI poisoning.

The double cut finish on the CGBJs were an extra $60 if I remember correctly.
Click to expand...

It seems, from what you are saying, like between DC and black there are zero real functional differences aside from look. You mentioned more texture on the black and holding ..stuff. But it I look at that as a potential for a slightly better grip if choking up on the choil. Just throwing it out there as a possibility. I know if wet it probably wouldn't make a difference on my SY.

Thanks

-Emt1581
 
It would be really good if you could just get to check out someones collection in person.
 
richstag said:
It would be really good if you could just get to check out someones collection in person.
Click to expand...

Exactly. I mean with guns I know my stuff. I know how to buy/sell/fix/operate/improve/etc. pretty much anything that fires a bullet. I'm learning with knives even though I've been collecting them for 20+ years (mostly crap/novelty pieces since pre-teen)...but Busse is so different from anything else I've bought due to the care they take in hand making each piece combined with the differences in design and materials. I just am a total newbie to this brand so yes, being able to see/feel one in person would make things MUCH easier for me!

-Emt1581
 
Its a learning curve for sure. Its a fun one though and none of the options ever dissapointed me over the years. I think you will be happy with whatever you decide on. All the options have their advantages.

For me I really like hand shaped linen and satin finish. I even satin finished my FBMLE even finer then it came from the factory. For me, the feel of the linen is the best. But I don't know if that's an option and I like canvas too. INFI isn't going to rust away on you without a coating so a coating is really just a negative for me. DC gives a good grippy texture to the steel.

I think you will have fun figuring this one out. The Busse fam is one of the best around.
 
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