Having my first Busse made! ...need a sheath and sharpening info.

richstag said:
Its a learning curve for sure. Its a fun one though and none of the options ever dissapointed me over the years. I think you will be happy with whatever you decide on. All the options have their advantages.

For me I really like hand shaped linen and satin finish. I even satin finished my FBMLE even finer then it came from the factory. For me, the feel of the linen is the best. But I don't know if that's an option and I like canvas too. INFI isn't going to rust away on you without a coating so a coating is really just a negative for me. DC gives a good grippy texture to the steel.

I think you will have fun figuring this one out. The Busse fam is one of the best around.
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First off I want to thank everyone for their advice and patience with me in figuring this out. I know I can be a real PITA sometimes because I'm so particular. It's not the money I'm worried about, because if I'm pleased I have no problem shelling out whatever they ask for their pieces if I think I can use them. And I do use at least two blades everyday. Right now it's a leatherman Surge on my hip and a CS Rajah II in my pocket for EDC. But I also use a variety of other blades for different tasks.

However, my being particular is a double edged sword. That is, after I got my SY Regulator and found no use for it combined with the dull edge it came with I had shied away from the Busse family of blades for a few years and gave a LOT of business to CS and ESEE/RAT instead. That is why I want this blade to be as perfected as possible. So that I use it! If not, and it just sits in the vault, I probably won't be as anxious to jump at the next chance to buy one and it'll hold the title of "I can say I own one" knife.

After all the reading I've done and the videos I've watched I'm really not worried about the steel/edge. It's the handle at this point. That's pretty much it. Plus I want to make the decision in the next day or two and NOT be a PITA to the ladies answering the phone because that's not fair to them.

Again, thanks to everyone so far for the help/patience! :)

-Emt1581
 
Then may I suggest one last piece of advice. Ask the shop if they can make this one sharp for you. Let them know if you want a sharp slicer or a thick beater. If you ask they can deliver :)

The shop CAN put some very impressive convex edges on blades.
 
richstag said:
Then may I suggest one last piece of advice. Ask the shop if they can make this one sharp for you. Let them know if you want a sharp slicer or a thick beater. If you ask they can deliver :)

The shop CAN put some very impressive convex edges on blades.
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I specifically told Lexi (that is the same Lexi on here right??) that I wanted a razor sharp edge and she told me they all come like that. I'm not looking to insult her by emphasizing it again ya know?

Thanks

-Emt1581
 
No I understand. Sharpness I guess was the wrong word. They are coming sharp now thick or thin. But, they can also do thinner edge grinds if you request it. I actually sent my FBMLE back at first for this very reason. Before I had belt sanders and diamond hones I had an edgepro and I litterally spent days trying to reprofile it. The shop put a much better edge for me. Of course then I got a belt sand and went through the learning curves with them and now I have my own tested and perfected edge.

I have had fun, that what the hobbie is about right :)
 
richstag said:
No I understand. Sharpness I guess was the wrong word. They are coming sharp now thick or thin. But, they can also do thinner edge grinds if you request it. I actually sent my FBMLE back at first for this very reason. Before I had belt sanders and diamond hones I had an edgepro and I litterally spent days trying to reprofile it. The shop put a much better edge for me. Of course then I got a belt sand and went through the learning curves with them and now I have my own tested and perfected edge.

I have had fun, that what the hobbie is about right :)
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Going with the "factory" edge will give me an idea of how well it was designed and conceptualized in the first place. I've been told, multiple times, that I can put this knife through hell work-wise and it'll come smiling back for more. Well I want to see if that's true. If I confound the experiment by thinning out or altering that edge/geometry it kind of defeats the purpose.

I agree fun it what it is mostly about. But reliability and function when the SHTF or day to day is crucial.

Thanks

-Emt1581
 
When I said tested I mean reliable and I can tell you function wise you can look at as much as 100 times improvement depending on how thick of a factory edge it comes with.

Have fun, good luck. I like to learn things for myself too, so I understand.
 
What I'm saying is when the SHTF I will take one of mine over a factory fresh one any day of the week :)

No offense to Busse.
 
richstag said:
When I said tested I mean reliable and I can tell you function wise you can look at as much as 100 times improvement depending on how thick of a factory edge it comes with.

Have fun, good luck. I like to learn things for myself too, so I understand.
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If that is true that an altered edge makes the blade perform "as much as 100 times" better...what does that say about the original design? Again, I'm looking for well thought out and I'm guessing Busse has lasted 30 years due to it's superiority with not only materials but also design.

I look at it kinda of like I look at eating at a fine restaurant. I don't mind paying a premium price for what I order. But if I have to season my food, kind of shows the chef missed his or her mark.

-Emt1581
 
Jerry Busse Knows how to design a knife. At the same time I can't imaging he would look me in the face and say, Kevin, this factory edged FBMLE chops just as well as yours. I would not look jerry in the face and say, Jerry, my FBMLE can chop cinder blocks all day long as well as your factory edged version

Its all in what you want.

And when I said Busse fam, I was speaking of the guys and gals here on the forum.
 
richstag said:
Jerry Busse Knows how to design a knife. At the same time I can't imaging he would look me in the face and say, Kevin, this factory edged FBMLE chops just as well as yours. I would not look jerry in the face and say, Jerry, my FBMLE can chop cinder blocks all day long as well as your factory edged version

Its all in what you want.

And when I said Busse fam, I was speaking of the guys and gals here on the forum.
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Maybe Jerry had another purpose or function in mind when designing the blade as opposed to what you use it for...? Not criticizing him or you. Just throwing it out there. Because if having to alter the original design and especially if that costs extra...what would have been the original design's purpose/use?

On the CGBJ and with Busse knives in general, is it common to alter the geometry/edge?

Thanks

-Emt1581
 
It can be pretty common. It may help to understand Busse offers knives of all different grind types. They could make the same model with various editions. One could come with a full convex zero edge another could come flat grind with a thick edge and on and on.

Its really what you want. Trust me I'm not trying to argue, I come on these forums to relax, learn and enjoy conversation. I try to help when I can too.
 
richstag said:
It can be pretty common. It may help to understand Busse offers knives of all different grind types. They could make the same model with various editions. One could come with a full convex zero edge another could come flat grind with a thick edge and on and on.

Its really what you want. Trust me I'm not trying to argue, I come on these forums to relax, learn and enjoy conversation. I try to help when I can too.
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Offering the same knife with different edges...that I don't understand looking at it from a purely functional standpoint. Like you're saying it's a learning experience.

About the CGBJ, it has a full flat grind right? Do you know of any pics or reviews of alternate edges?

Thanks!

-Emt1581
 
BTW, richstag, thanks for the info tonight. The dialogue has been enlightening. :)

-Emt1581
 
emt1581 said:
Offering the same knife with different edges...that I don't understand looking at it from a purely functional standpoint. Like you're saying it's a learning experience.

About the CGBJ, it has a full flat grind right? Do you know of any pics or reviews of alternate edges?

Thanks!

-Emt1581
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The CGBJ has a full-height convex grind, not flat grind. The edge is convex, too. I think you said this in your "grips" thread also.
It's not that they offer the same knife with different edges, but different editions of the same model. They won't make a CGBJ with a flat grind. Once you bring something to the custom shop, they'll do anything, but all CGBJs will be full-height convexed, and all BJLEs will be saber ground. However, for example, they could release a Special Edition BOSS Jack that comes flat ground.

That said, it's great that a knifemaker offers the same knife with different edges to me. From all these posts, it seems to be just what you're looking for. Different edges have different purposes, as you know when you said you prefer hollow ground knives for batoning, and Busse's wide range of edge grinds implies that Jerry knows what he wants out of a knife when he designs it. So as far as out-of-the-box usage, which I think is what you're best trying to achieve, Busse has a ton of different models available to you (although only one at a time :D). In contrast, I believe many other big knife companies use the same grind on all of their knives, and unfortunately sometimes it's out of ease of manufacturing rather than what's best for the knife.

But the truth of it is, we all know more than anyone that one knife and one grind can't handle it all and if you wait for the right production for your needs, you may be waiting a long while. So if you want to modify your knife, feel free to do it. In fact, I think Jerry loves seeing his customers modify his knives (as well as use and get them dirty).

I understand wanting everything from a knife that's this costly because I'm still in that phase myself. My first Busse was only six months ago and I still don't want to abuse or change the edge of it too much because any touching up or any regrinding of it will essentially remove steel, and when you pay this much, you want to keep that steel :p but the only reason for that is the cost. From actually using my Busses, it's really obvious that it will outlive me. I think it's safe to say most people here can use their Busses for hard work for years without having to send it anywhere for resharpening. This is asking a lot because using most knives for hard work (which is where INFI shines) like chopping will put a lot of other knives back to the sharpening stone at the end of the day.

Google "types of knife grinds" and you'll find a bunch of pages explaining them and their advantages and disadvantages. Convex is a favorite of Busse's because of its durability, and when you see that the company has "combat" in its name and some knives exceed 1/4" in thickness, you can tell Busses are durable and meant for abuse.
 
uyotg said:
The CGBJ has a full-height convex grind, not flat grind. The edge is convex, too. I think you said this in your "grips" thread also.
It's not that they offer the same knife with different edges, but different editions of the same model. They won't make a CGBJ with a flat grind. Once you bring something to the custom shop, they'll do anything, but all CGBJs will be full-height convexed, and all BJLEs will be saber ground. However, for example, they could release a Special Edition BOSS Jack that comes flat ground.

That said, it's great that a knifemaker offers the same knife with different edges to me. From all these posts, it seems to be just what you're looking for. Different edges have different purposes, as you know when you said you prefer hollow ground knives for batoning, and Busse's wide range of edge grinds implies that Jerry knows what he wants out of a knife when he designs it. So as far as out-of-the-box usage, which I think is what you're best trying to achieve, Busse has a ton of different models available to you (although only one at a time :D). In contrast, I believe many other big knife companies use the same grind on all of their knives, and unfortunately sometimes it's out of ease of manufacturing rather than what's best for the knife.

But the truth of it is, we all know more than anyone that one knife and one grind can't handle it all and if you wait for the right production for your needs, you may be waiting a long while. So if you want to modify your knife, feel free to do it. In fact, I think Jerry loves seeing his customers modify his knives (as well as use and get them dirty).

I understand wanting everything from a knife that's this costly because I'm still in that phase myself. My first Busse was only six months ago and I still don't want to abuse or change the edge of it too much because any touching up or any regrinding of it will essentially remove steel, and when you pay this much, you want to keep that steel :p but the only reason for that is the cost. From actually using my Busses, it's really obvious that it will outlive me. I think it's safe to say most people here can use their Busses for hard work for years without having to send it anywhere for resharpening. This is asking a lot because using most knives for hard work (which is where INFI shines) like chopping will put a lot of other knives back to the sharpening stone at the end of the day.

Google "types of knife grinds" and you'll find a bunch of pages explaining them and their advantages and disadvantages. Convex is a favorite of Busse's because of its durability, and when you see that the company has "combat" in its name and some knives exceed 1/4" in thickness, you can tell Busses are durable and meant for abuse.
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In other words the edge is comes with is sort of his signature and the most versatile?

Thanks for the info!

-Emt1581
 
emt1581 said:
In other words the edge is comes with is sort of his signature and the most versatile?

Thanks for the info!

-Emt1581
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Nope. In other words, you have lots of choices for which knife/edge to get if you just want the factory specs, if you don't want to have it modified, compared to some other knife companies that only use one edge or grind on their knives, giving you only one choice.
Of course it's still limited to whatever Busse releases, so a lot of the members here do modify their edges to make the knife work best for them.

The zero-edges convex grind and edge is one of my favorites, especially with a satin or polished finish. It looks seamless and gives a cool illusion to it in the light. It's great in use, too.
 
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uyotg said:
Nope. In other words, you have lots of choices for which knife/edge to get if you just want the factory specs, if you don't want to have it modified, compared to some other knife companies that only use one edge or grind on their knives, giving you only one choice.
Of course it's still limited to whatever Busse releases, so a lot of the members here do modify their edges to make the knife work best for them.

The zero-edges convex grind and edge is one of my favorites, especially with a satin or polished finish. It looks seamless and gives a cool illusion to it in the light. It's great in use, too.
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Oh ok.

Personally, aside from defensive purposes, my blades cut rope open packages (but NEVER through tape!!), cut up/prepare food, and batoning through wood at certain points of the year. Which edge would you suggest given those tasks?

Thanks

-Emt1581
 
richstag said:
Gary, thank you so much for taking the time to explain this properly.
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It was only a few months ago everyone was explaining everything to me :)

emt1581 said:
Oh ok.

Personally, aside from defensive purposes, my blades cut rope open packages (but NEVER through tape!!), cut up/prepare food, and batoning through wood at certain points of the year. Which edge would you suggest given those tasks?

Thanks

-Emt1581
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The BOSS Jack's convex edge will do you fine for those tasks. Cutting rope requires a really sharp any-type-of edge or a serrated edge, so just keep it sharpened if it starts to get dull (it'll take a long time for that). And as long as you're comfortable preparing food with a 0.22" thick knife, that'll be fine, too, but personally I'm used to 0.09" or less in the kitchen.
 
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