-
The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is$300$250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
Having my first Busse made! ...need a sheath and sharpening info.
- Thread starter emt1581
- Start date
Either way I'm still drawn to the DC and have been ever since I saw it on a Proto BJ. But I'll give it till monday to email Lexi. I don't want to be a pain in the ass to the poor girl with flip flopping my specs.
Thanks
-Emt1581
Right, as I said in the beginning, I strive for perfection. It's rare that a company allows me to attain it both in their quality and in my specs. I know they're used to it but I'd rather be a pain here than with the general public than with the gal on the other end.
-Emt1581
- Joined
- Sep 5, 2010
- Messages
- 1,998
I don't see any black... just tanker gray and muddy. Adjust your monitor's brightness or hue
What I do see that's weird however, is that these they regularly offered blue-black G10 with the BJs, but I see black-blue here. The other G10 colors seem to be correct.
I don't see any black... just tanker gray and muddy. Adjust your monitor's brightness or hue
What I do see that's weird however, is that these they regularly offered blue-black G10 with the BJs, but I see black-blue here. The other G10 colors seem to be correct.
Is tanker grey the one I'm saying is smooth black? Is it a finish or a coating?
Thanks
-Emt1581
- Joined
- Sep 5, 2010
- Messages
- 1,998
Yep, the tanker gray coating is smoother than the black. Black is really textured. I have one of each. I'll take some pictures.
Don't quote me on this, but I thought the muddy coating was smooth as well, so it's odd seeing it here with the same texture as the black coating. But like I said, the blue-black vs black-blue G10 is off... Busse does a lot of things like this that aren't really perfectly documented well or and don't really follow any rules or formulas.
- Joined
- Feb 22, 2007
- Messages
- 9,008
Im going to say the finishes I know. Satin, double cut and Camo. I can't remember what they call the camo, but I believe the pattern is made by DC and Satin finishing.
Take a look at this older thread http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/709002-Camo-Busse
Take a look at this older thread http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/709002-Camo-Busse
Oh ok. I'm not big on doing artistic things to blades unless it improves function. I'm a meat n potatoes kinda guy. I will say that since discovering "booty camo" it got my attention.
-Emt1581
No, no list that I know of other than the CG Blank (I think the Satin was thinner but this could be due to the coating).
Something that has interested me is the rivets. Seems like they would make sure the grips would shatter before they would begin to come loose...that is a good thing IMHO. But it also makes the blade good for lashing/spearing/etc.
-Emt1581
- Joined
- Sep 5, 2010
- Messages
- 1,998
Here's the black, straight on and at an angle:
Here's the gray:
Side by side:
As you can see, while the gray is textured, it's more like a mottling of uneven thicknesses of paint being sprayed on. The black crinkle coat, on the other hand, has all these grooves and channels, almost as if a thick layer of paint were put on and then they stamped that pattern into it. And, yes, the crinkle coat is grippier by a bit.
Also, it's not that the satin is thinner than the black--it's that the Limited Edition (which was finished in satin) was 0.18" thick and the Combat Grade (which doesn't have a satin option) was 0.22". It was in the specs of the different models.
Here's the gray:
Side by side:
As you can see, while the gray is textured, it's more like a mottling of uneven thicknesses of paint being sprayed on. The black crinkle coat, on the other hand, has all these grooves and channels, almost as if a thick layer of paint were put on and then they stamped that pattern into it. And, yes, the crinkle coat is grippier by a bit.
Also, it's not that the satin is thinner than the black--it's that the Limited Edition (which was finished in satin) was 0.18" thick and the Combat Grade (which doesn't have a satin option) was 0.22". It was in the specs of the different models.
- Joined
- Jul 11, 2011
- Messages
- 593
Busse Double cut is an awesome finish, I have owned bead blast finishes from many other makers, but none as good or beautiful as a busse DC. They do it twice, it's all about the medias used in the bead blasting, the glass beads and better medias are expensive and most makers just do it once with the sand and rough media and blast the hell out of it. I'm sure busse does it the way its supposed to be done, like all things they do. I had a buddy who used to grind blades at Microtech, and he told me they used to take all the slightly messed up finish blades that didn't make the QC cut for satin and stonewashed finishes and throw them all into get bead blasted, that it would hide a lot of imperfections in the grind and hand grinds, like it was used to cover up bad stuff. That was their policy hence their doublecut blades sucked and had rust spots, like it would get darkened stains if any water or moisture would stay on it long. So I got rid of all of them, disgusted with what he told me they did.
Bead Blast is a traditional "military" tactical finish for non glare, and will rust faster than a satin or high polish in a leather sheath, more pores to hold moisture, If ignored. On the other hand, it's more porous so it soaks in oil Better than the others and can be more stain resistant if oiled. That's just my experience from crappier production bead blast knives. That's subjective though because of the different steels involved, INFI is a beast. Either way that's the worst way to STORE any knife. The leather is a skin, it's a natural material that soaks up humidity and dries out depending on conditions and will definitely ruin any knife during long term storage. Not during daily use though. Same with kydex, if you ignore moisture and humidity can get trapped in there, a wet sheath and rust also. The best way to store a knife is in the tactical cardboard and netting busse sells their knives with. The cardboard would keep humidity away from the blade and the netting gives space between the blade and cardboard so no contact.
To be honest some of my busses I put a light coat of oil and throw in the kydex and haven't had any issues at all. Just make sure the kydex is dry! Overall I have not had any rust issues with my DC busses, totally unlike any other steels I've used. Ive also been using a doublecut finish for saltwater fishing, etc to see what would happen and as long as I give it some love at the end of the day like my rods/reels and other "tools" it is perfect. Totally changed my perspective on a bead blast type finish. I will call all other bead blast finish bead blast because it's just not the same as Busse DC.
The only thing I ever had was slight spotting from deer blood on my boss jack LE, but that was my fault because it was bloody and fatty from dressing a few deer in the dark and drunk and was put back into the kydex and not cleaned for a few days, and that will happen with every knife or metal out there, except maybe a coated would be more durable to carelessness.
But I scrubbed it with soap and water, and put it on the strop and it came right off! Thats infi for you. If it had been s30v or so, it would have been a total pain. Bottom line, all you have to do is be conscious and just wipe it off when you're done. Like we all do with all our toys. And if you can't decide, get both! Different tools for different jobs!
Bead Blast is a traditional "military" tactical finish for non glare, and will rust faster than a satin or high polish in a leather sheath, more pores to hold moisture, If ignored. On the other hand, it's more porous so it soaks in oil Better than the others and can be more stain resistant if oiled. That's just my experience from crappier production bead blast knives. That's subjective though because of the different steels involved, INFI is a beast. Either way that's the worst way to STORE any knife. The leather is a skin, it's a natural material that soaks up humidity and dries out depending on conditions and will definitely ruin any knife during long term storage. Not during daily use though. Same with kydex, if you ignore moisture and humidity can get trapped in there, a wet sheath and rust also. The best way to store a knife is in the tactical cardboard and netting busse sells their knives with. The cardboard would keep humidity away from the blade and the netting gives space between the blade and cardboard so no contact.
To be honest some of my busses I put a light coat of oil and throw in the kydex and haven't had any issues at all. Just make sure the kydex is dry! Overall I have not had any rust issues with my DC busses, totally unlike any other steels I've used. Ive also been using a doublecut finish for saltwater fishing, etc to see what would happen and as long as I give it some love at the end of the day like my rods/reels and other "tools" it is perfect. Totally changed my perspective on a bead blast type finish. I will call all other bead blast finish bead blast because it's just not the same as Busse DC.
The only thing I ever had was slight spotting from deer blood on my boss jack LE, but that was my fault because it was bloody and fatty from dressing a few deer in the dark and drunk
and was put back into the kydex and not cleaned for a few days, and that will happen with every knife or metal out there, except maybe a coated would be more durable to carelessness. But I scrubbed it with soap and water, and put it on the strop and it came right off! Thats infi for you. If it had been s30v or so, it would have been a total pain. Bottom line, all you have to do is be conscious and just wipe it off when you're done. Like we all do with all our toys. And if you can't decide, get both! Different tools for different jobs!
Last edited:
Busse Double cut is an awesome finish, I have owned bead blast finishes from many other makers, but none as good or beautiful as a busse DC. They do it twice, it's all about the medias used in the bead blasting, the glass beads and better medias are expensive and most makers just do it once with the sand and rough media and blast the hell out of it. I'm sure busse does it the way its supposed to be done, like all things they do. I had a buddy who used to grind blades at Microtech, and he told me they used to take all the slightly messed up finish blades that didn't make the QC cut for satin and stonewashed finishes and throw them all into get bead blasted, that it would hide a lot of imperfections in the grind and hand grinds, like it was used to cover up bad stuff. That was their policy hence their doublecut blades sucked and had rust spots, like it would get darkened stains if any water or moisture would stay on it long. So I got rid of all of them, disgusted with what he told me they did.
Bead Blast is a traditional "military" tactical finish for non glare, and will rust faster than a satin or high polish in a leather sheath. If ignored. On the other hand, it's more porous so it soaks in oil Bette than the others and can be more stain resistant if oiled. That's just my experience from crappier production bead blast knives. That's subjective though because of the different steels involved, INFI is a beast. Either way that's the worst way to STORE any knife. The leather is a skin, it's a natural material that soaks up humidity and dries out depending on conditions and will definitely ruin any knife during long term storage. Not during daily use though. Same with kydex, if you ignore moisture and humidity can get trapped in there, a wet sheath and rust also. The best way to store a knife is in the tactical cardboard and netting busse sells their knives with. The cardboard would keep humidity away from the blade and the netting gives space between the blade and cardboard so no contact.
To be honest some of my busses I put a light coat of oil and throw in the kydex and haven't had any issues at all. Just make sure the kydex is dry! Overall I have not had any rust issues with my DC busses, totally unlike any other steels I've used. Ive also been using a doublecut finish for saltwater fishing, etc to see what would happen and as long as I give it some love at the end of the day like my rods/reels and other "tools" it is perfect. Totally changed my perspective on a bead blast type finish. I will call all other bead blast finish bead blast because it's just not the same as Busse DC.
The only thing I ever had was slight spotting from deer blood on my boss jack LE, but that was my fault because it was bloody and fatty from dressing a few deer in the dark and drunk
But I scrubbed it with soap and water, and put it on the strop and it came right off! Thats infi for you. If it had been s30v or so, it would have been a total pain. Bottom line, all you have to do is be conscious and just wipe it off when you're done. Like we all do with all our toys. And if you can't decide, get both! Different tools for different jobs!
I really appreciate that info and the time you took to type it out.
Thanks
-Emt1581
