Having my first Busse made! ...need a sheath and sharpening info.

emt1581 · Jan 19, 2012

richstag said:
I would ask the shop on that one for the specific knife

Done. You don't know where I could find a pic of a DC CGBJ do you? Thanks!

-Emt1581

uyotg · Jan 19, 2012

emt1581 said:
Is there an extra charge for double cut? If so any idea on a ballpark figure for the CGBJ?

I'm really only buying this to check out the INFI. Still I do like the double cut finish slightly better than the black.

Thanks

-Emt1581

There is definitely an extra charge for double cut. The Combat Grade BJ's prices for finishes added $60 for that finish.
Better hurry if you want to change it... you ordered quite a while ago, didn't you? Double cut is my favorite finish. It's almost silvery in look and in feel, not as dull gray as photographs make it appear. The only issue is rust. It's still such a non-issue regardless, especially since you can send it back under warranty (I think) and since you got Kydex (Jaxx reported leather sheaths having a bad effect on his double cut blades).

richstag · Jan 19, 2012

I sure don't off the top of my head. I don't have one to take a pic for you. Oh, and your welcome, anytime man.

uyotg · Jan 19, 2012

Grandsuave said:
Double cut is usually a bit more expensive, as the knife must first be finished to a satin before the bead blasting.

This has been mentioned a few times, but I'm kind of doubting it. I have a CABS that I quoted for both satin and double cut refinishing, and the satin came out more expensive.
Can you confirm that double cutting requires a satin finish 100%? It seems to make sense, but the costs for the labor don't seem to match up...

uyotg · Jan 19, 2012

emt1581 said:
Done. You don't know where I could find a pic of a DC CGBJ do you? Thanks!

-Emt1581

I have a few:

As you can barely see here, the double cutting finish also seems to call for bead blasting of the scales and tubing:

That's the kind of attention detail that makes Busse Busse

richstag · Jan 19, 2012

uyotg said:
There is definitely an extra charge for double cut. The Combat Grade BJ's prices for finishes added $60 for that finish.
Better hurry if you want to change it... you ordered quite a while ago, didn't you? Double cut is my favorite finish. It's almost silvery in look and in feel, not as dull gray as photographs make it appear. The only issue is rust. It's still such a non-issue regardless, especially since you can send it back under warranty (I think) and since you got Kydex (Jaxx reported leather sheaths having a bad effect on his double cut blades).

Just for some info on DC and rust. I have had mine (CGASH) out on boats in southern Florida for weeks and never had an issue. Chopped up frozen bait and stuf like that just for fun. So like you said, the rust issue really isn't an issue.

emt1581 · Jan 19, 2012

uyotg said:
There is definitely an extra charge for double cut. The Combat Grade BJ's prices for finishes added $60 for that finish.
Better hurry if you want to change it... you ordered quite a while ago, didn't you? Double cut is my favorite finish. It's almost silvery in look and in feel, not as dull gray as photographs make it appear. The only issue is rust. It's still such a non-issue regardless, especially since you can send it back under warranty (I think) and since you got Kydex (Jaxx reported leather sheaths having a bad effect on his double cut blades).

Lexi told me it'd be another 3 weeks until mine is made.

Thanks for those pics!!

I gotta ask, what is your avatar??

Thanks

-Emt1581

uyotg · Jan 19, 2012

A shot of my feet standing on some rocks while I was out one day this past fall.

richstag · Jan 19, 2012

I dug real deep back in my photobucket to find this one. My CGASH1 when the finish was pretty new. Thats in direct sunlight, and looks just how I saw it with my own two eyes.

emt1581 · Jan 20, 2012

Thanks for pics.

What a toss up....extra $60 for DC or stick with the black which is nice to....decisions decisions!

-Emt1581

richstag · Jan 20, 2012

Well either way you go I know you won't be let down. I do prefer DC and Satin, but thats not saying I don't like the coatings too. If you aren't going to beat the snot out of your knife through logs, I have found coatings hold up well. Some better then others though

Good luck deciding.

emt1581 · Jan 20, 2012

richstag said:
Well either way you go I know you won't be let down. I do prefer DC and Satin, but thats not saying I don't like the coatings too. If you aren't going to beat the snot out of your knife through logs, I have found coatings hold up well. Some better then others though

Good luck deciding.

I KNOW I don't want Satin. No use for a reflective surface on a blade especially one that is a utility/tactical blade.

But what are the pros and cons of each when looking at DC vs. Black other than what has already been mentioned? I only have experience with the black (so long as Busse's black is the same as SY's black).

Thanks

-Emt1581

richstag · Jan 20, 2012

Coated:

-Can rust under coating
-Coating can get material imbedded in it
-Coating is harder to keep clean / irrelevant point if you don't plan on any food prep
-Coating can look like crap / Unless you like the worn look
-If you really use the knife, the coating is going to come off

DC:

-More reflective then a matte black coating
-Can show wear
-wear can lead to satin/higher reflectivity

IDK man, just off the top of my head. I don't worry about the tactical thing so I usually go Satin. Probably best to let a tactical guy chime in on this one.

I like satin (which you don't want), because its easy to keep clean, wears the best out of the bunch. Satin is just uniform scratch patterns you know.

You can take a satin blade and beat the crap out of it, spray some WD on it and wipe it all off and be good to go.

I am just saying this so you can basically pick and choose my opinions as you wish.

emt1581 · Jan 20, 2012

richstag said:
Coated:

-Can rust under coating
-Coating can get material imbedded in it
-Coating is harder to keep clean / irrelevant point if you don't plan on any food prep
-Coating can look like crap / Unless you like the worn look
-If you really use the knife, the coating is going to come off

DC:

-More reflective then a matte black coating
-Can show wear
-wear can lead to satin/higher reflectivity

IDK man, just off the top of my head. I don't worry about the tactical thing so I usually go Satin. Probably best to let a tactical guy chime in on this one.

I like satin (which you don't want), because its easy to keep clean, wears the best out of the bunch. Satin is just uniform scratch patterns you know.

You can take a satin blade and beat the crap out of it, spray some WD on it and wipe it all off and be good to go.

I am just saying this so you can basically pick and choose my opinions as you wish.

HHmmm...I see what you're saying about coating. I've seen that with my ESEE-5. Any of your DC's worn? I'm not sure what that looks like.

Now you got me leaning heavily toward DC. My Visa thanks you.

-Emt1581

richstag · Jan 20, 2012

My DC is now satin finished. But, it basically just gets smoother and smoother. Think about all the peaks and valleys from the media blasting being smoothed over time. It basically just got shinier and smoother.

Sorry I don't have any pics. If it helps, it never turned to a satin finish or mirror polish on its own. It is still pretty tough.

richstag · Jan 20, 2012

Things not to do with DC would include using metal polishes. That will start to bring a luster. If you are familiar with mirror polishing, its very quick to take a DC straight to mirror polish with cork belts/leather belts and compound. IMO.

emt1581 · Jan 20, 2012

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...nd-first-impression?highlight=double+cut+pics

Found one that would look like either the black or the DC. I'm liking the DC.

I also found some pics of the worn DC's and they look like my CS Rajah II in regard to wear. I'll take that over the black coating's wear any day.

I can't believe I'm going to pay $350 for a test blade...but hopefully it'll suit my needs and be a keeper.

Now before Monday if anyone can point out downsides that'd be great or rather appreciated.

Thanks!

-Emt1581

richstag · Jan 21, 2012

EMT, I was searching for something else on Busse Grinds and I came across this. Thought you might find it of interest.

Jerry Busse said:
The BOSS Jack Combat grades will be .220" thick with a Full Height Convex ground bevel. Convex grinds are typically difficult to sharpen properly when coated because in order to effectively sharpen them you have to remove approx 1/4 - 1/2" of the coating above the edge.

The good news is that we have developed a new procedure where the blades will be zero edge sharpened just prior to coating. Then, we only need to remove a small amount of the coating before honing and stropping! :thumbup: :thumbup: Seems to work great!!! . . . :thumbup:

The combat grade blades below DO NOT have this new edge, but they will give you an idea of a few color combos as well as show how killer cool these BOSS Jack blades really are!!!!! :thumbup:

Here are a few sample pics. . .

The Limited Editions will be .180" (Less than 3/16" thick) with a flat sabre grind :thumbup:. . . . Anorexic baby!!!! :thumbup: :thumbup: . . . They will have a blended zero edge. . . . Here are a few sample pics. . . .

Coming soon!!. . . . Barring any unforeseen circumstances (which there always seem to be) they should be up either late tonight or early tomorrow morning. . . . .

Let's Drink! :thumbup:

Jerry

.

emt1581 · Jan 21, 2012

Now I'm confused. The second pic down on the CGBJ seems to have a SMOOTH blackened FINISH while the pic under it seems to have a TEXTURED black COATING. What gives??

BTW, thanks for the pics!!!

-Emt1581

richstag · Jan 21, 2012

Your welcome and IDK, I just know Busse can do lots of different stuff