HI Kerambit Design Thread

While I'm more into tools than dedicated weapons, I'll throw out a couple of comments:

The chiruwa handle is likely easier for the kamis to make. They make scissors and bancharos (axes), so using a drift or the like to forge a loop/ring should be known to them. What kind of fairing/tapering of the scales is needed needs to be addressed. Balance/weight is an issue, especially since the ring limits thinning the tang towards the butt as is done on the JKM-1. It wouldn't be as light and quick as a partial tang. Dunno if that matters for this type of weapon, which I imagine in my ignorance has sort of a surprise, one-try sort of use.

Making the ring in horn or wood would probably require them to drill a ring of holes with the electric hand drill, and then lots of filing to complete. I think it would take longer, and there could be a significant failure rate.

Think of the consequences if a crack develops in a horn or wood ring. Big, big bummer. No superglue fix for that. Cosmetic repair, but not functional.

Wild hair idea: How about a pinned partial tang blade and pinned partial tang pommel ring?

One pin should be enough, at least for the ring...less leverage on the ring and one's finger is almost certain to go first anway. It will be easier to forge the ring thicker than the blade, and maybe even have an intergral bolster that fairs into the handle. Balance may be better also. More work, but may be worth it.
 
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How do you intend to use these?

These claw things are supposed to dig deeper as you pull the point across the target. The wide blade belly seems to throw off the geometry and I don't see how it would work. Is this a chopping claw that is too light to chop and too wide to claw?

n2s
 
I guess you could use it as a sort of push dagger. Something like the Cold Steel Desperado, rather then a kerambit.

n2s
 
Time for revamping the design effort...

Here is number 6:

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Pic #2

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Notes:

Pinned hidden tang and loop

Cho - modified. Comments? (looking for something new here, something that would be definitive of the "hanshee kerambit" in and of itself)

The handle would need to be made of a hard wood or horn. It would be a pain to make, but hey...if it looks good...what the heck, right?

Blade shape: still more "khuk-ish". N2S - point taken and we should open this to discussion. My feeling is that if we get too pointy or "warncliffe-like" the quality will become more inconsistent. Not that they couldn't make it. But that there would likely be more room for error. Who knows?

Just for kicks, here's #7 with a more pointy tip:

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Pic #2

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Why do I have the feeling Bura and Company will just love you guys when you send over the wood model of that.:eek: :D
 
I like the #6 too, but would it be possible or advisable to include a bit of a finger-guard on the bolster? I hate to cut my fingers on my own knife. I somehow see me doing that with this one.:eek:
 
#6 style,

finger-grooved horn handle,

spike on the end for sure,

and a good amount of belly to keep it lookin' like a khuk,

and i'm ALL over it~
i love this whole idea!
 
For a finger guard...

Originally posted by hoghead
I like the #6 too, but would it be possible or advisable to include a bit of a finger-guard on the bolster? I hate to cut my fingers on my own knife. I somehow see me doing that with this one.:eek:
Click to expand...

...At least on this kinda knife..... That's what the finger loop/ring is for! It stops the hand moving and when wielded properly, has the added benefit of being undisarmable, in the right circumstances...
 
#7 is more traditional and useful for gutting.

#6 will likely sell more, even though it is more of a collectors knife.

Make both, or at least #7. :cool:
 
Aardvark, it's a Simmerling, smallest .45 acp out there. Solid rep for quality. Hard to find, and oh so expensive.
 
I kinda like the spike, but it'd need a pretty funky sheath (kydex? pull-through leather 'hood'?) to keep us from gutting ourselves everytime we sat down or tried to tie a shoe.
 
Ok. Time to play catch-up with this thread.


The most preferred design so far is #6. I'm going to change it to a pinned, hidden tang. I think the other ideas pose too much of a problem. Granted, the pommel won't be as strong as it would with a steel ring, but does anybody here actually do any skull-crushing on a regular basis?


Here's what I think would be the best "compromise" - somewhere between our fantasy and the kami's reality:

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There is no need for a finger guard because of the pinky-ring. However, I added a choil for anyone who might want to choke up, etc.

The drawing shows it from the top as well.

I'm wondering what kind of sheath would be best....heck, let's just through caution to the wind and see what they come up with on their own.. :eek:

Just kiddin, guys...:D

I do think a standard HI sheath with frog would be just fine. Or none at all, even. (make your own)

Dan
 
I like the cho/choil (should we call it a CHOil now?) redesign -- it looks safer.:) What is the ring area made out of in this version?
 
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