Hinderer Skinnys

Skinny Slicer 3.0s!
Accidentally ordered 2 black ones. One'll be going up for sale tomorrow for cheap, FYI.

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Yeah, definitely let us know what the ranch says when you send it into them. I'll be curious to hear. I certainly hope they take care of it for you.

Figured I'd follow up on this, as I have the knife in hand today. I finally got the knife back several months after I sent it in, after hounding them about it with a bunch of emails.

Returned knife has the exact same issue out of the box, straight from "KJ". They even noted (in what feels insulting as it's completely false) that the screws felt abnormally loose, and that they don't see a problem with it after tightening everything up. I run my knives with tight pivots and even tighter body screws, plus loctite, so I'm going to have to dispute that one. Maybe someone took it apart and put it back together loose first, because nothing comes from me loose.

You can still see the lockbar flexing back into the frame, like the lockbar stabilizer is undersized and doesn't contact the lock bar. Generally that LBS should keep the lock bar from moving back up into the frame by rubbing on the lock bar a bit and preventing upward travel, but that's not happening here, so you get movement.

At a loss as to what to do from here, as warranty doesn't see a problem and I'm not going to resell a knife that does this in good conscience. But at least they didn't charge me for shipping, as they admitted it took a long time to turn it around.
 
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Figured I'd follow up on this, as I have the knife in hand today. I finally got the knife back several months after I sent it in, after hounding them about it with a bunch of emails.

Returned knife has the exact same issue out of the box, straight from "KJ". They even noted (in what feels insulting as it's completely false) that the screws felt abnormally loose, and that they don't see a problem with it after tightening everything up. I run my knives with tight pivots and even tighter body screws, plus loctite, so I'm going to have to dispute that one. Maybe someone took it apart and put it back together loose first, because nothing comes from me loose.

You can still see the lockbar flexing back into the frame, like the lockbar stabilizer is undersized and doesn't contact the lock bar. Generally that LBS should keep the lock bar from moving back up into the frame by rubbing on the lock bar a bit and preventing upward travel, but that's not happening here, so you get movement.

At a loss as to what to do from here, as warranty doesn't see a problem and I'm not going to resell a knife that does this in good conscience. But at least they didn't charge me for shipping, as they admitted it took a long time to turn it around.

Ouch, that sucks man.
 
We’ve all seen this, right?

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Could you please provide additional info?

Edit: Still haven’t found those pics, but found DLT’s announcement. Guess I’ll be trying to pick one up, unless their server crashes of course.
 
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Could you please provide additional info?

Edit: Still haven’t found those pics, but found DLT’s announcement. Guess I’ll be trying to pick one up, unless their server crashes of course.

The pic was in the email notification they sent out.
 
I haven't noticed any type of lock movement on my 3 Hinderer's, a 3.5" and a 3" skinny XM and an MP-1. I have a couple knives that I have noticed some lock rock, a Viper and a Buck Pro, I can get a couple others to 'click' but it doesn't bother me nor do I feel it's a defect. I personally don't understand some people's use of a folder, it is a FOLDER after all, you want to drive stakes w/the back of a blade use a fixed knife or better yet a hammer. I have NO doubt that any of my Hinderers will perform exactly as designed and are up to any task I would ever put to a folding knife. I find it bordering on ridiculous some peoples obsession with using a knife incorrectly and complaining that 'something's not right'. The spine whacking vids are over the top.

I've been using tools for over 50 years, if you have the right tool for the job you won't be compromising you're safety. A folding knife is a tool, used correctly they perform as intended, abuse one and it might bite you. We're spending quite a bit of $$ on a Hinderer, I would assume most people have also spent a little $$ on some other tools so don't need to use a folding knife to do things it was never meant to do.

I'm definitely going to try and get in on the 3.5" skinny drop coming up.
 
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I haven't noticed any type of lock movement on my 3 Hinderer's, a 3.5" and a 3" skinny XM and an MP-1. I have a couple knives that I have noticed some lock rock, a Viper and a Buck Pro, I can get a couple others to 'click' but it doesn't bother me nor do I feel it's a defect. I personally don't understand some people's use of a folder, it is a FOLDER after all, you want to drive stakes w/the back of a blade use a fixed knife or better yet a hammer. I have NO doubt that any of my Hinderers will perform exactly as designed and are up to any task I would ever put to a folding knife. I find it bordering on ridiculous some peoples obsession with using a knife incorrectly and complaining that 'something's not right'. The spine whacking vids are over the top.

I've been using tools for over 50 years, if you have the right tool for the job you won't be compromising you're safety. A folding knife is a tool, used correctly they perform as intended, abuse one and it might bite you. We're spending quite a bit of $$ on a Hinderer, I would assume most people have also spent a little $$ on some other tools so don't need to use a folding knife to do things it was never meant to do.

I'm definitely going to try and get in on the 3.5" skinny drop coming up.
I don't think that asking a $465 knife to have no lock movement is too much, as that level of money should command production level perfection and not errors that aren't exhibited in some knives 1/10th of the price. I am not spine whacking my knives, and yet some of mine have flexed or even failed out of the box with hand pressure. That is not acceptable to me, as proper lock execution should result in a liner lock that holds fast to the blade tang without moving. You are obviously welcome to your own opinions on that.
 
Is there any way to get a picture with the thickness of a Hinderer skinny framelock next to a Hinderer skinny linerlock? Something like this? I’d like to see a Skinny liner and framelock comparison between the same knives just so I can get an idea how they compare. (So a frame and linerlock 3.5 xm18s or two 3 inch xm18s) I want to see if the linerlock is skinnier than the framelock or vice versa.

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Also does anyone know if a 3 inch xm18 skinny framelock is skinnier than a 3.5 inch xm18 framelock?

Are all the Hinderer linerlocks skinnies or are there non skinny linerlocks?

Sorry for all the questions I have only owned a 3.5 inch Eklipse and it was too thick for me though I loved the knife. I would like to get another Hinderer and am trying to determine which to get. So far the Firetac is top of my list but these myriad of skinnies is making me wonder.
 
Is there any way to get a picture with the thickness of a Hinderer skinny framelock next to a Hinderer skinny linerlock? Something like this? I’d like to see a Skinny liner and framelock comparison between the same knives just so I can get an idea how they compare. (So two 3.5 xm18s or two 3 inch xm18s) I want to see if the linerlock is skinnier than the framelock or vice versa.

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Also does anyone know if a 3 inch xm18 skinny framelock is skinnier than a 3.5 inch xm18 framelock?

Are all the Hinderer linerlocks skinnies or are there non skinny linerlocks?

Sorry for all the questions I have only owned a 3.5 inch Eklipse and it was too thick for me though I loved the knife. I would like to get another Hinderer and am trying to determine which to get. So far the Firetac is top of my list but these myriad of skinnies is making me wonder.

I don't have all the models mentioned above, so I can't help with the pics. However I can throw out a couple answers:

First, there are no 3" Skinny frame locks. 3" XM Skinnys have only been done in liner locks.

Second, the 3" Skinny liner lock is slightly thicker overall than the standard 3" XM18 framelock, but the bladestock is thinner on the Skinny, which is really the only dimension on the 3" skinny that is different from the 3" standard.

Third, the new Mini Eklipses are liner locks, but they are NOT skinnys, they have the same thicknesses as the large Eklipse.

Finally, the 3.5" XM Skinny frame lock has all the same thicknesses as the standard 3" XM frame lock.

Hope that helps, I may have thrown a redundant answer or two in there, but I reckon it's a start. :D
 
I don't have all the models mentioned above, so I can't help with the pics. However I can throw out a couple answers:

First, there are no 3" Skinny frame locks. 3" XM Skinnys have only been done in liner locks.

Second, the 3" Skinny liner lock is slightly thicker overall than the standard 3" XM18 framelock, but the bladestock is thinner on the Skinny, which is really the only dimension on the 3" skinny that is different from the 3" standard.

Third, the new Mini Eklipses are liner locks, but they are NOT skinnys, they have the same thicknesses as the large Eklipse.

Finally, the 3.5" XM Skinny frame lock has all the same thicknesses as the standard 3" XM frame lock.

Hope that helps, I may have thrown a redundant answer or two in there, but I reckon it's a start. :D

Thank you! That is a huge help. I guess I could have more easily asked; which Hinderers are the skinniest?

It seems the Skinny 3.5 xm18 framelocks if they are as thin as the 3 inch framelocks is probably the answer I’m looking for. (With even skinnier blade stock than the 3’s)

With that said I believe the Firetac is the same skinniness as the skinny 3.5 xm18 though it has standard blade stock. Anyone know if this is correct?

Assuming so I guess my grail Hinderer is either a Firetac with slicer grind or a flipperless skinny xm18 with slicer grind. (Not sure if that xm18 exists) Either way I will likely get a liner delete cf scale on whichever I get to bring down the weight and thickness another level.
 
Serious question here: what advantages does a skinny slicer have over an old slicer? FYI, I dont care about weight reduction if any, and I have yet find any benefit of ball bearing pivot over well tuned PB wahers (if anything it is actually the opposite).
 
Serious question here: what advantages does a skinny slicer have over an old slicer? FYI, I dont care about weight reduction if any, and I have yet find any benefit of ball bearing pivot over well tuned PB wahers (if anything it is actually the opposite).

Thinner bladestock and superior thinness behind the edge makes the Skinnys vastly superior at....cutting stuff.
 
Serious question here: what advantages does a skinny slicer have over an old slicer? FYI, I dont care about weight reduction if any, and I have yet find any benefit of ball bearing pivot over well tuned PB wahers (if anything it is actually the opposite).

The only reason I sold my previous XM-18 3.5” spearpoint is because it was too thick behind the edge. Fit/finish/ergos were perfect. I absolutely love my Firetac (probably my favorite knife right now) and I fully intend on grabbing a skinny slicer tomorrow. Same thickness blade stock as the Firetac, but with a taller blade and slicer grind, should make for a fine knife. I’m looking forward to the release and just hope it isn’t a repeat of the PM2 drop with all the shenanigans. Though I think there’s a smaller market for the XM-18 and DLT probably has their ducks lined up.
 
Serious question here: what advantages does a skinny slicer have over an old slicer? FYI, I dont care about weight reduction if any, and I have yet find any benefit of ball bearing pivot over well tuned PB wahers (if anything it is actually the opposite).

Also the handle is made with thinner titanium so the knife is lighter and more comfortable to carry in your pocket.
 
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