How about a Camp knife challenge ?

Just finished up the bevels on mine last night. I hope to get the handle roughed up and heat treat it on Sunday. I gotta get it done before Thursday, or it's not going to be touched until Oct 5th. I'll be on Myrtle Beach drinking umbrella drinks ;)
 
I haven't read this whole thread, but is there a plan for the rest of us to vote on the design aspect of this challenge? Or does one person pick the best design?
 
I just can't get the time, right now..... I'll go at it and if I make the deadline, awesome... I'll be sad if I miss out...

Rick
 
Ok, guys...here's my final CAD drawing...it's now or never....:thumbup:


Name for this one: M.U.C.K.

(My Ultimate Camp Knife)


I found a local source for some 3/16" O1 (which will be lighter than the 1/4" 5160 I have on hand) - so I'm going to take a shot at it. It won't be as tough as 3V, but O1 aint no slouch either!!

Have a look and let me know what you think.

I included a "ruler" for reference.

CampKnife4a.gif



Part of my reasoning for this size/shape:

I want it to be able to fit in a Spec Ops Combat Master Short sheath
LGcombatmaster_1.jpg

..yet get as much blade as possible in there. :D


I angled the blade forward (not too unlike a kukri) for better chopping

Exposed pommel for crushing

Lanyard hole at the back (beyond the grip...won't get in the way of your hand while using the knife)


The blade "reverse tapers" (gets wider as it goes toward the tip) for added weight in chopping. This has been time-tested with my Survivor knife.

Spear-point tip (better for digging over a drop point; nice and stabby too)

False edge to lighten the tip a bit and make penetration easier

Thumbgooves on top for striking a firesteel and for grip retention

The tang will be significantly drilled out to make this knife very light/easy to carry. I will also be providing a multi-position kydex sheath and will just let the tester decide which he likes better.

The handle will be make out of 3/8" thick Natural Canvas Micarta with some palm-swell/contouring - will be heavily bead-blasted for extra grip.


Next step is to cut out the steel. :thumbup:




Dan
 
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Daniel Koster said:
Ok, guys...here's my final CAD drawing...it's now or never....:thumbup:


Name for this one: M.U.C.K.

(My Ultimate Camp Knife)


I found a local source for some 3/16" O1 (which will be lighter than the 1/4" 5160 I have on hand) - so I'm going to take a shot at it. It won't be as tough as 3V, but O1 aint no slouch either!!

Have a look and let me know what you think.

I included a "ruler" for reference.

CampKnife4a.gif


Dan
Click to expand...

That looks great Dan, can't wait to see the real thing !;):thumbup:
 
Interesting one Dan. I had a 6 inch by 1/4 inch swamp rat and always found it was too awkward for a lot of stuff so I like your choice to go with 3/16. If that swamp rat was 3/16, I'd probably still own it.
 
Ok....here we go!!!




I managed to get it cut out on the bandsaw.


When I started....the blank weighed 12.3 ounces


Here it is after I drilled out the handle:

MUCK0918-01.jpg


You can see I've shaved off 2.1 ounces from the handle...doesn't sound like a lot but it represents almost 1/5th of the weight! :eek:




And here it is after I've started the grinds.

I did not grind them all the way up because I need to leave some shoulder for heat-treat....which allows me to use quench plates after quenching to straighten while the steel is still "fluid" and not cooled down below 400F.

O1 rarely warps...but it's part of my "process" now...so I do it mostly out of habit. :D

MUCK0918-02.jpg



And you can see more weight has been knocked off (nearly another 1/4th).

:thumbup:



I will heat-treat this over the weekend and post pics later.


Dan
 
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Dan, I like that design. Should be handy and your right, O1 isn't exactly a slouch steel.

Magnussen, I know how hard it is to run out of time. Even if you aren't able to finish by the deadline I'd still like to see that knife come to life. I have to say it's one of my favorite designs posted up on here.

SDS
 
Well, I almost went with the gaucho hudson, then almost went with a field dirk (trail knife) at 3/16, but while I'm going to lose chopping performance (took me almost a minute and a half to get through that branch, and 5-7 cuts to go through 1 inch branches of the pear tree) I am going to follow myself here. Possibly the only entry under 3/16 thick?

2009-09-19-0001.jpeg



Finish in the photos is 120 grit, so I need to get the thumbramp fileworked, take the spine and tang down to 800 and blue them, then work the edge down with some 800 grit and a strop. And oil the micarta.

2009-09-19-0002.jpeg



This is a pear tree in the front yard- decorative. Good wood, and I was chopping an old growth main branch that's too low- so it's weight bearing strong wood, which you could tell. (That's where I usually use a saw.)

2009-09-19-0003.jpeg



2009-09-19-0004.jpeg



I dithered a lot on the handle material and finally decided on micarta and a new technique I've been dying to try- ream out the pin holes in the handle material a touch with a file, then pre-expand one side of the pins, glue up with slow epoxy, and then expand the other side of the pins (this works best on tubing, peening takes a bit more time and work)- and hey! no clamps needed. just flare the tubing out until you like the glue line.

oh,. right: 15N20, 3/32, differential temper (visible), 7 inch blade with 12.25 inches overall length and 2 inches broad at the peak of the thumbramp.
 
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