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The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is$300$250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
How about a Camp knife challenge ?
- Thread starter pitdog
- Start date
- Joined
- Feb 6, 2007
- Messages
- 1,298
Well I got my knife & sheath done:thumbup:
Just have to wax the sheath, then package it up & ship it to Brian. Here are some pics
Just have to wax the sheath, then package it up & ship it to Brian. Here are some pics
mtnfolk mike
Basic Member
- Joined
- Mar 21, 2006
- Messages
- 10,040
very nice Bruce...:thumbup: i like how that turned out...
- Joined
- Nov 14, 2005
- Messages
- 11,135
wow guys..... some amazing work by all involved. I havent been around much lately, but this thread was a treat to go through. AWESOME.
- Joined
- Apr 13, 2007
- Messages
- 12,294
Great looking blade Bruce, that handle looks amazing !Well I got my knife & sheath done:thumbup:
Just have to wax the sheath, then package it up & ship it to Brian. Here are some pics
:thumbup:Strange how all the knives have taken on similar proportions.
Great work guys! :thumbup:
I have to say this thread is making me jealous. I think I'm catching the wanna-make-a-knife bug. The work-in-progress stuff was a great addition!
I'm definitely looking forward to seeing all of these put through their paces.
I have to say this thread is making me jealous. I think I'm catching the wanna-make-a-knife bug. The work-in-progress stuff was a great addition!
I'm definitely looking forward to seeing all of these put through their paces.
Work in process shots....
I forged the blade out, quenched and oven tempered it yesterday. Today I put the handle scales on. (Elk) I will finish the handle pins and wrap tonight... hopefully I will start on the sheath tomorrow...
Rick
One word....WOWZA
That's a beatiful blade man
David
- Joined
- Feb 28, 2007
- Messages
- 9,786
Cool - a big scandi enters into the frey - good stuff CKE2!!!
Toucan Oasis
BANNED
- Joined
- Aug 17, 2009
- Messages
- 793
You guys are incredible.
Not only are the blades nice looking they appear very functional too.
Where is Wharton/StagNsteel these years?
Not only are the blades nice looking they appear very functional too.
Where is Wharton/StagNsteel these years?
- Joined
- Jan 6, 2005
- Messages
- 9,680
Well...... these are my favorites, so far.......
Rick
Stomper
Patrick
Laconico
y
Koster
Koyote
Bruce
CKE2
Magnussen
Noshtero
Rick
Stomper
Patrick
Laconico
y
Koster
Koyote
Bruce
CKE2
Magnussen
Noshtero
Last edited:
- Joined
- Oct 18, 2001
- Messages
- 20,978
Ok - done now!!
Pics.....!!!
first off....here's a pic on the scale of the knife after glue-up:
And then a pic of it finished:
(I managed to take nearly another ounce off)
And here's the Glamour Shot:
Pics.....!!!
first off....here's a pic on the scale of the knife after glue-up:
And then a pic of it finished:
(I managed to take nearly another ounce off)
And here's the Glamour Shot:
- Joined
- Oct 18, 2001
- Messages
- 20,978
And some more pics....
Different angles...
A close-up showing the lanyard hole (and highlighting the blue liners)
Same angle, but better for showing the pommel strike.
The front ricasso/handle area - also good shot for showing just how 'textured' and grippy the natural canvas micarta can be.
Different angles...
A close-up showing the lanyard hole (and highlighting the blue liners)
Same angle, but better for showing the pommel strike.
The front ricasso/handle area - also good shot for showing just how 'textured' and grippy the natural canvas micarta can be.
- Joined
- Oct 18, 2001
- Messages
- 20,978
And now for some "In-Hand" pics.
I really like this blade length - to - handle ratio. Feels great. How come I never made anything in this size before?!?!?
Plenty of room in the handle for even the largest hands.
Reverse grip.
Note: All edges have been chamfered/rounded so that this is a super-comfy grip.
I also made sure the handle angle and the grip geometry would allow for a blade-up hammer grip. It's not as good as a dagger would be...but it's alot better than expected.
And now the Moment Of Truth...where does it balance?
Right in front of the first pin.
Reasoning = I wanted this to have some forward weight to it - for better chopping. But not so much that you lose the fine touch needed for more delicate tasks. Therefore, the POB is *just barely* in front of the first finger.
I didn't want a Beater....nor did I want a "Toothpick". Both of those designs are great designs, but more specific in their application. The idea behind this (as I understand it) was to make a more general all-around Camp Knife...capable of taking on several tasks, and not specializing in just one.
Which is why I went for a flat grind instead of a scandi grind. The scandi will do better on fuzz sticks and batoning, but will not slice as nicely...and a flat grind with a swedge will penetrate much better.
I love the look of wood...but unless it is checkered, it won't be as grippy as canvas micarta - which is not only grippy dry, but even when it's wet.
I removed the handle material around the lanyard tube so that the lanyard wouldn't "poke out" as wide as usual and be more "out of the way". Those that use lanyards on fixed blades will know exactly what I mean. Also, I wanted to leave room for a small pommel crusher (always handy, and fun to use). I found myself the other day on a fishing/hunting trip wishing I had a pommel crusher to knock out the fish and small game quickly/easily. At the time I resorted to whacking it with the handle (holding it by the blade)...I didn't want to use a rock...I wanted to use my knife...and it fell short. So, there ya go now.
The front of the handle is curved and also tapered. This something not a lot of knifemakers do...but a feature that matters a lot to me. The taper makes going in and out of a sheath easier, with less wear-n-tear on the handle. Plus, it makes it comfortable to choke up on the blade in an "Ulu-pinch-grip"...if you know what I mean.
I have also found that I prefer a "gentle curve" to the outside of the handle (from top to bottom) and then a quick radius to the underside/topside of the handle. A truly round handle can rotate in your hand as you twist while using it. But a "Tall Oval" gives you leverage...and "breaking" the corners and rounding them makes it comfy without losing that leverage.
Feel free to tell me what you think of it. But keep in mind, I ain't changing it (till after testing anyway).
Thanks for the Challenge, pitdog!!
Dan
I really like this blade length - to - handle ratio. Feels great. How come I never made anything in this size before?!?!?
Plenty of room in the handle for even the largest hands.
Reverse grip.
Note: All edges have been chamfered/rounded so that this is a super-comfy grip.
I also made sure the handle angle and the grip geometry would allow for a blade-up hammer grip. It's not as good as a dagger would be...but it's alot better than expected.
And now the Moment Of Truth...where does it balance?
Right in front of the first pin.
Reasoning = I wanted this to have some forward weight to it - for better chopping. But not so much that you lose the fine touch needed for more delicate tasks. Therefore, the POB is *just barely* in front of the first finger.
I didn't want a Beater....nor did I want a "Toothpick". Both of those designs are great designs, but more specific in their application. The idea behind this (as I understand it) was to make a more general all-around Camp Knife...capable of taking on several tasks, and not specializing in just one.
Which is why I went for a flat grind instead of a scandi grind. The scandi will do better on fuzz sticks and batoning, but will not slice as nicely...and a flat grind with a swedge will penetrate much better.
I love the look of wood...but unless it is checkered, it won't be as grippy as canvas micarta - which is not only grippy dry, but even when it's wet.
I removed the handle material around the lanyard tube so that the lanyard wouldn't "poke out" as wide as usual and be more "out of the way". Those that use lanyards on fixed blades will know exactly what I mean. Also, I wanted to leave room for a small pommel crusher (always handy, and fun to use). I found myself the other day on a fishing/hunting trip wishing I had a pommel crusher to knock out the fish and small game quickly/easily. At the time I resorted to whacking it with the handle (holding it by the blade)...I didn't want to use a rock...I wanted to use my knife...and it fell short. So, there ya go now.
The front of the handle is curved and also tapered. This something not a lot of knifemakers do...but a feature that matters a lot to me. The taper makes going in and out of a sheath easier, with less wear-n-tear on the handle. Plus, it makes it comfortable to choke up on the blade in an "Ulu-pinch-grip"...if you know what I mean.
I have also found that I prefer a "gentle curve" to the outside of the handle (from top to bottom) and then a quick radius to the underside/topside of the handle. A truly round handle can rotate in your hand as you twist while using it. But a "Tall Oval" gives you leverage...and "breaking" the corners and rounding them makes it comfy without losing that leverage.
Feel free to tell me what you think of it. But keep in mind, I ain't changing it (till after testing anyway).
Thanks for the Challenge, pitdog!!
Dan
Last edited:
- Joined
- Dec 18, 2008
- Messages
- 377
Its been said before but this thread is kick a$$. Would love to own every one.
- Joined
- Jan 6, 2005
- Messages
- 9,680
Dan... I love the bit of width increase in the blade and the angle of the handle in relation to the cutting edge. :thumbup:
... I also like that sweater you're sporting for the inhand pics... though it's a little warm for longsleeve... is that genuine Alpacha?
Rick
... I also like that sweater you're sporting for the inhand pics... though it's a little warm for longsleeve... is that genuine Alpacha?
Rick