How Long Do Hydraulic Lines Last? ... 😅

That's going to be fun using a hole saw to enlarge the 1" hole. Do you have a hole saw that's a snug fit in a 1" hole to act as the pilot while drilling? Whether you use the holesaw or a drill bit laying the frame over to use your drill press is the way to go for sure.
I was thinking about taking one of the 1'' pins, drilling a pilot hole in the center of it, then welding it into the existing holes... so that the pilot of the hole saw will have something to guide it.

Edit: Thinking about it some more... I pay pick up a standard 1-1/4'' twist drill....
 
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Rather than weld a steel pin into the hole, I might try a wooden dowel that's a tight fit - just drive it in? BUT, I do think your idea of a drill bit might leave a cleaner nicer hole.
 
I was thinking about taking one of the 1'' pins, drilling a pilot hole in the center of it, then welding it into the existing holes... so that the pilot of the hole saw will have something to guide it.

Edit: Thinking about it some more... I pay pick up a standard 1-1/4'' twist drill....

Go with the hole saw,
The twist drill will catch an edge and jam up

Either a plate you clamp in place, or
The hole saw will take a smaller hole saw to act as an arbour against the inside of the existing hole

Bi metal hole saws from Starrett, or Milwaukee are pretty good and sometimes the price is surprisingly cheap.


 
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So I tried to make a 1'' pilot.... Looked like this:

IMG_6539.JPG


Didn't really work very well. My hole saw had a goood deal of wobble too.... Annnnd my drill press only turns down to 600 RPMs... which is too fast.


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I decided to go another route. I took the 1'' pin, put it in my lathe and drilled a 1/4'' hole in the center of it, then welded a 1'' plug cut from the pin into the hole. This worked pretty well for a pilot for a different hole saw I ordered. This one had less runout. I also used my mini-mill so I could bring down the RPMs to around 300





Got the job done... from what I can tell with my cheap calipers I'm around 1.27''... which was more out of spec than I wanted.


The real challenge is going to be doing the next hole on the frame... lol... any ideas welcome.
 
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Good job - that looks pretty good hole. A hole saw does LOTS better in drill press (or mill) than they do holding a hand drill.

How many tons you looking at? Did you get the 5" cylinder? OR, still with 4" cylinder. Anything up to 16 ton or so I'd stay with the 1" pin. Use the lathe to make a 1-1/4" X 1" bushing to put in the 1.25" cylinder hole. I'll bet that 1" pin will hold 20 ton even. My 4" cylinder is rated at 3,000 psi which would be 19 ton has a 1" pin. A 5" cylinder pushed to 3,000 psi for 30 ton might be a bit much for 1" pins :)

I just saw the MAGISTER HYDRAULICS 4" cylinder is rated at 3500 psi for 22 tons with 1" pins.
 
yeah... I think I may try to rig up my mill on the ground with the second hole tomorrow.... I was pretty tempted to use a hand drill on it... I just don't know if that's going to give me a straight hole. I figured it may with the pre-drilled 1/4'' pilot. But I'm more confident with the mill

This is the cylinder I ended up going with - https://www.northerntool.com/shop/t...7765?cm_mmc=Housefile-_-RECEIVED-_-707-_-CONF

I built this calculator for the cylinders to help my understanding. This is what I think my rig will do with the current pump:

Pressure.JPG


This is what it can do at it's max working pressure of 3000psi:

Pressure2.JPG



I must say I found this line in the description interesting.... Makes me feel good about this guy's strength:

6000psi.JPG
 
That's a neat calculator - did you build it in an excel spreadsheet - I use LibreOffice. I never bothered to calculate the upward pressure since there is almost no pressure required for the upstroke - unless a punch is stuck in hole.

I'd been running the calculations on a hand calculator, then found this online calculator: https://www.baumhydraulics.com/images/calculators/cyl_calc.htm there is also one for ram speed: https://www.baumhydraulics.com/images/calculators/cyl_speed.htm

Looking forward to final result.
 
That's a neat calculator - did you build it in an excel spreadsheet - I use LibreOffice. I never bothered to calculate the upward pressure since there is almost no pressure required for the upstroke - unless a punch is stuck in hole.

I'd been running the calculations on a hand calculator, then found this online calculator: https://www.baumhydraulics.com/images/calculators/cyl_calc.htm there is also one for ram speed: https://www.baumhydraulics.com/images/calculators/cyl_speed.htm

Looking forward to final result.
yes sir that's excel. Email me up at: redbeardops@gmail.com and I can send it to you if you want.


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Well it took a while... but it worked:







About 2 hours to set up and 1 hour on the hole.
 
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You got a good setup there. I can see why it worked so good. I like the looks of that frame - "H" frames are much stronger than the "C" type.

Looking good.
 
Well, just ordered a 10 gal tank... figured the extra space couldn't hurt! They say you need around 3x the GPM of your pump? At 2500 PSI my 11 GPM pump will move around 2.9 GPM.... so I'm thinking 2.9*3 lands me around a 10 gal tank. All things being equel it's better than the 5gal I had.... and it has a temp gauge. What do yall think is the max allowable working temperature of a hydraulic system?



It has different threads on the return side. Says 3/4'' NPT... I hope this fits 3/4'' line and fittings I bought! The 2'' suction seems normal. It says it comes with a strainer for the 2'' suction port so that's a win... makes it cheaper than Northern's tanks.




Edit: These guys recommend keeping it under 150F - https://www.cylinderservices.net/log-splitter-hydraulics-and-how-it-works/
 
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Well, just ordered a 10 gal tank... figured the extra space couldn't hurt! They say you need around 3x the GPM of your pump? At 2500 PSI my 11 GPM pump will move around 2.9 GPM.... so I'm thinking 2.9*3 lands me around a 10 gal tank. All things being equel it's better than the 5gal I had.... and it has a temp gauge. What do yall think is the max allowable working temperature of a hydraulic system?



It has different threads on the return side. Says 3/4'' NPT... I hope this fits 3/4'' line and fittings I bought! The 2'' suction seems normal. It says it comes with a strainer for the 2'' suction port so that's a win... makes it cheaper than Northern's tanks.




Edit: These guys recommend keeping it under 150F - https://www.cylinderservices.net/log-splitter-hydraulics-and-how-it-works/

I take that back... I went with the northern tank... it's thicker steel, powder coated, and has larger ports.

Tank - https://www.northerntool.com/shop/t...5138?cm_mmc=Housefile-_-RECEIVED-_-707-_-CONF
Strainer - https://www.northerntool.com/shop/t...5168?cm_mmc=Housefile-_-RECEIVED-_-707-_-CONF
 
For sure the Northern tank is the best deal - same price and thicker metal (12 vs 14 gauge). You gonna have a really NICE press there.

You asked about normal working pressure for a press - Since Coal Iron sets their presses around 2500 to 2550 psi I would think that's normal, but it also depends greatly on pressure rating of the houses, what the pump is set at, and cylinder rated at. Seems like I remember your cylinder rated for 3500 psi? If your hoses are rated at 4K+ psi I would expect you could run 3,000 psi just fine which is "almost" 30 ton - that's a LOTS of pressure on the frame, especially the bottom die support.

Some folks think 2,000 psi is all that a press should be ran at due to dangers if something springs a leak. A fine pinhole at 3,000 psi can do damage to bare skin - more than a person might think.
 
How wide are your dies?

One die I made that really works good and gets a bit of use is the middle die, except with the round turned 90 degrees so it will widen a billet rather than draw it out longer. Your squaring die on the right is gonna be really handy. Not just for canister, but for other things. I use it a good bit for making a billet square, then quarter turn to press again to make the billet oct shaped before getting ready to twist the billet.

I wish my press was large enough to have the combo dies on your left.
 
The base plates are 1/2 thick x 7'' wide x 4'' deep

Thanks for the thoughts sir. What do you think are the best sizes for the squaring dies? Most common I guess?
 
We really NEED other folks to chime in here who actually have experience with a forging press. Remember, I'd never even seen a forging press until 3 months ago. All I know is what I've learned by reading and using a press. BUT, here goes what little I "think" I know about dies and their use.

7" wide - that means a 1/2" on each side will be for the holder leaving 6" of die space? That's a good amount. The stress is best centered below the ram - if the billet is placed to one side it will put a twisting torque on the slider plates on each side and it's possible to get the sliders jammed - or so I've been told. In your case with a 2" rod, that puts the max distance from center of rod to stress perhaps 1-1/2", or perhaps more realistic 2-1/2" which is 5" which is most all the 6" space you've got available. I think you're in good shape to use the full 6". I only mention the above because I'd never really thought of the possible issue until it was mentioned to me.

On the squaring dies - I'm thinking it would be good to have 2 sizes, one that's about 1" on each diagonal for smaller stuff, like making a square billet, then octagonal shape. My squaring die is 1" on the diagonal and I can squeeze a 1-1/2" canister just fine. If you're using a larger canister you might wish a larger squaring die. I would have it running the full 4" width as you have. Stacy mentioned if the canister is 2" sq, then a 1-1/2" squaring die is about right for the amount of "squish" that is needed. Depending on how thick the angle to form the "Vee" you might wish to put a rod or something in the empty space for support.I positioned the angle so the Vee opening was up, then welded a couple of bars across the "Vee" for a little extra support. Not sure why you need the 1/4" plate between the angle and the base - is there a reason?

On the combo die - I'd have the flattening portion extending the full 4" width rather than the narrow die shown. Unless you've got lots of 1/2" plate laying around I'd look for 3/8" thickness to save a bit of money. The base is fully supported by the bottom of the die holder and doesn't really need all the extra support of 1/2". My press uses only 1/4" material for the base, but the die is usually 1/2" to 1" thick depending on design and is what does the actual support.

Again, allow me to emphasize again how little experience I have with a forging press. I'd LOVE to have BillyO, Weo, Stacy, Fitzo, or any of several other folks who have used a forging press with MUCH more actual knowledge than I have comment to be sure I'm thinking correctly.
 
I'm going to go back to the hole saw conversation.

If I knew you had a mill, and I had remembered it; I would have suggested an

Annular Cutter​


Way more expensive than hole saws, but much smoother on size holes.
However they do best with auto downfeed which you still may not have had.
 
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