How to sharpen a Hinderer

My Wicked Edge "Work Station" my Hinderer(s) will be Spa'd Rubi style right cheer.
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Yeah, I invested in a WE "pro pack," and it is great! Now I want the Chosera's up to 10,000 grit...
 
Yeah, only did this two nights ago, haven't had too many cutting opportunities come up, but it passes through paper like it isn't there, and my calzone got delivered to work today unsliced, so I used it on that, and it cut like a scalpel!
 
bm11 said:
Yeah, only did this two nights ago, haven't had too many cutting opportunities come up, but it passes through paper like it isn't there, and my calzone got delivered to work today unsliced, so I used it on that, and it cut like a scalpel!
Click to expand...

What did you do it to - inclusive? It looks like a slicer from the angle of the picture?
 
bm11 said:
Yeah, only did this two nights ago, haven't had too many cutting opportunities come up, but it passes through paper like it isn't there, and my calzone got delivered to work today unsliced, so I used it on that, and it cut like a scalpel!
Click to expand...

Calzone!:eek: You sliced a Calzone! Side to side or front to back? OMG
 
cziv said:
What did you do it to - inclusive? It looks like a slicer from the angle of the picture?
Click to expand...

He done dis'

Well, I did it. I decided 100% I was going to keep it, and depreciation be damned, I wanted my xm-18 slicer to be the best slicer it could be!

I went 30 inclusive all the way to a 3.5um strop, then backed off to 40 inclusive for 100 passes at 5um and 200 passes at 3.5um. Not sure if it was course enough to provide a true microbevel, but this knife is SHARP!Next investment is a set of water stones.
 
rubiconss said:
He done dis'

Well, I did it. I decided 100% I was going to keep it, and depreciation be damned, I wanted my xm-18 slicer to be the best slicer it could be!

I went 30 inclusive all the way to a 3.5um strop, then backed off to 40 inclusive for 100 passes at 5um and 200 passes at 3.5um. Not sure if it was course enough to provide a true microbevel, but this knife is SHARP!Next investment is a set of water stones.
Click to expand...

300 passes at 40° would put a heck of a healthy microbevel on it and was certainly the right move after taking the edge that thin. Nice work! :thumbup:
 
Well I did it.........can not wait wicked edge on it way. Got the basic plus 800/1000 and 5/3.5 leather strops. Any tips and suggestions will be welcomed with open arms. Should be here by Thurs. the latest......I hate waiting. I know everyone else on here is so patient but that is just not me. :-) I will be reading this thread over and over.....so much good stuff in just the one. Any thoughts on the leather vs. Balsa.
 
I know this will come as a shock but I'll have some thoughts:). Check out the thread(s) in Maintenance,Tinkering and Embellishment as well.

If you didn't get one, you will need a good solid base (MDF/HDF) about 12"x14" (see my work station for some ideas) base, lighting, magnification, paddle storage. Sharpies, solvent, Blue Painters tape (1")
Keep and use your plastic cover as a dust cover, micro-fiber cloth.
I put a 2" high back-drop that serves as a paddle rest when they are deployed on the robot arms.
Then, get some examples of "practice" knives. Kitchen, folders, etc. Nothing great but not much to worry about. You can't really poke this pootch.

- Lighter and Slower is better than the opposite. Full tang to tip strokes.
- Use the sharpie "ticks" perpendicular (spine to edge) on the existing bevel surface, "ticks" every 1/2" or so all along the length so you know what you are doing.
- Tape your good blades and tape the pivot area to keep out steel dust.
- Use your book to record your setting per/knife (example: XM18 3.5 - Top holes, "B", 22*)
- MOST knives will be around 18*- *22 (examples of deviation is like Spyderco at 15*)
Common mistakes:
- Not taping
- Too fast, Too heavy a stroke
- Not going choil/tang to tip
- Rushing the process and going thru the paddle grits to quick. MORE time and proper prep of the edge at the lower grits will ensure the BEST Final output.

Hinderers (IMO) 20*-22* like a toothy edge. I make sure I use the sharpie ticks because I can not personally detect burrs well on super steels (kitchen knives or softer steels is easy)
I stop at 1000 on mine and will touch up on the 1200 ceramic sometimes. That can be accomplished with automotive wet/dry sandpaper as well taped to the face of a paddle.

As for strops, you will get 20 different opinions from 50 different people. Again, great threads on stropping in M,T &E forum. Some real experts over there.
Hard surface the best. The strop compound is the magic.
I happen to like an OLD piece of denim (from jeans) stretched tight over a flat piece of pine.
Cardboard, newsprint, ALL good strop material.

Those were a couple thoughts.
Go slow, enjoy.
Sharpening is a hobby all it's own.

Rubi
 
excellent info rubi...just picked up my first hinderer (should be here tomorrow) and I'm already thinking about how to sharpen it....after reading BF, edging towards a wicked edge :D must resist the buy now, think later temptation....

lets see if I can find one at a good price... :cool:
 
rubiconss said:
I know this will come as a shock but I'll have some thoughts:). Check out the thread(s) in Maintenance,Tinkering and Embellishment as well.

If you didn't get one, you will need a good solid base (MDF/HDF) about 12"x14" (see my work station for some ideas) base, lighting, magnification, paddle storage. Sharpies, solvent, Blue Painters tape (1")
Keep and use your plastic cover as a dust cover, micro-fiber cloth.
I put a 2" high back-drop that serves as a paddle rest when they are deployed on the robot arms.
Then, get some examples of "practice" knives. Kitchen, folders, etc. Nothing great but not much to worry about. You can't really poke this pootch.

- Lighter and Slower is better than the opposite. Full tang to tip strokes.
- Use the sharpie "ticks" perpendicular (spine to edge) on the existing bevel surface, "ticks" every 1/2" or so all along the length so you know what you are doing.
- Tape your good blades and tape the pivot area to keep out steel dust.
- Use your book to record your setting per/knife (example: XM18 3.5 - Top holes, "B", 22*)
- MOST knives will be around 18*- *22 (examples of deviation is like Spyderco at 15*)
Common mistakes:
- Not taping
- Too fast, Too heavy a stroke
- Not going choil/tang to tip
- Rushing the process and going thru the paddle grits to quick. MORE time and proper prep of the edge at the lower grits will ensure the BEST Final output.

Hinderers (IMO) 20*-22* like a toothy edge. I make sure I use the sharpie ticks because I can not personally detect burrs well on super steels (kitchen knives or softer steels is easy)
I stop at 1000 on mine and will touch up on the 1200 ceramic sometimes. That can be accomplished with automotive wet/dry sandpaper as well taped to the face of a paddle.

As for strops, you will get 20 different opinions from 50 different people. Again, great threads on stropping in M,T &E forum. Some real experts over there.
Hard surface the best. The strop compound is the magic.
I happen to like an OLD piece of denim (from jeans) stretched tight over a flat piece of pine.
Cardboard, newsprint, ALL good strop material.

Those were a couple thoughts.
Go slow, enjoy.
Sharpening is a hobby all it's own.

Rubi
Click to expand...

Well, yes a little shock, well maybe not so much :-). Thanks for all the good advice. I will check out the M.T.& E. I think I will tape "Light and slow on the work bench. Thanks again I will keep you informed and send some pic when I can.

Bill
 
My biggest issue with the Wicked Edge was that I would round off the tips of my knives and then I would have to reprofile the tips which I knew was user error. Clay's solution was to only apply pressure with your thumbs on the side of the paddles instead of applying pressure inwards like I was...problem solved!
 
BARBARIAN-X said:
My biggest issue with the Wicked Edge was that I would round off the tips of my knives and then I would have to reprofile the tips which I knew was user error. Clay's solution was to only apply pressure with your thumbs on the side of the paddles instead of applying pressure inwards like I was...problem solved!
Click to expand...

Got my WE today, and rounded the tip of my Para2. :(

I get hair whittling edges freehand, and with the Edge Pro. My first two knives with the WE just weren't sharp, so I'm doing something wrong for sure.

About rounding the tip, what do you mean by only apply pressure with your thumbs?
 
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