How to sharpen a Hinderer

CrimsonTideShooter said:
Got my WE today, and rounded the tip of my Para2. :(

I get hair whittling edges freehand, and with the Edge Pro. My first two knives with the WE just weren't sharp, so I'm doing something wrong for sure.

About rounding the tip, what do you mean by only apply pressure with your thumbs?
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Oh no CTS w/ WE watch out. Can't wait for that YT vid. John don't apply a lot of pressure on the stones w/ inward motion. Applying forward pressure/motion w/ thumbs will avoid rounding the edge.

Are you able to sharpen the back 1/8 of the knife near the choil? I find the PM2 difficult to get to on the WE as the stones hit the choil leaving the back 1/8 of the blade unsharpened. Love the WE though. Awesome stuff!
 
CTS- The control of the speed and travel of the paddle is what will come AND keep you from rounding tips. You want to start the "Up and Forward" stroke at the choil and end at the Tip, Not roll off the end.
The roll off the end takes the tip Off (rounds it)

As for the knives not getting sharp - Simply, you are not apexing the the edge. IF (like me) you have a hard time detecting the burr then rely on completely removing the sharpie "Tick" Use Magnification.
Do not advance to the next paddle thinking "I'll get it sharp on this one" it should be thumb grabbing sharp after the 100 grit and then the edge just gets refined as you progress from there.
 
PAZach said:
Oh no CTS w/ WE watch out. Can't wait for that YT vid. John don't apply a lot of pressure on the stones w/ inward motion. Applying forward pressure/motion w/ thumbs will avoid rounding the edge.

Are you able to sharpen the back 1/8 of the knife near the choil? I find the PM2 difficult to get to on the WE as the stones hit the choil leaving the back 1/8 of the blade unsharpened. Love the WE though. Awesome stuff!
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Nope I couldn't get the very last bit of edge near the ricasso. Thinking of shaving off the little bit of platern that extends out from the stone so that they are flush. Not being able to get the whole edge is a big down side for me.

I can't wait to get good at this thing. So far I have produced mediocre edges at best. I guess I'm just so used the EP.
 
rubiconss said:
CTS- The control of the speed and travel of the paddle is what will come AND keep you from rounding tips. You want to start the "Up and Forward" stroke at the choil and end at the Tip, Not roll off the end.
The roll off the end takes the tip Off (rounds it)

As for the knives not getting sharp - Simply, you are not apexing the the edge. IF (like me) you have a hard time detecting the burr then rely on completely removing the sharpie "Tick" Use Magnification.
Do not advance to the next paddle thinking "I'll get it sharp on this one" it should be thumb grabbing sharp after the 100 grit and then the edge just gets refined as you progress from there.
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I'm almost positive that I'm just jumping grits too fast like you said. I'm very adept at sharpening and detecting burrs, I guess I'm just expecting too much too fast with the WE.

I am not used to all of the sand left over. My stones are brand new so hopefully they don't shed so much after a few knives. I think them being so coarse right now is affecting sharpness as well.

I'm going to keep on practicing until I get hair whittling edges like I do with the EP. I'm already in love with the fact that I can sit down to sharpen, and I don't have to use water. Thanks for the tips man!
 
Yes, probably progressing to quickly. Also, the paddles do have a break in period during which they will produce material BUT be sure your strokes are very light almost as if the weight of the paddle and forward motion is the only force against the blade.
I've had re-profiles on super steels take hours. Sharpening a dull knife (ALL levels) about 30-40 minutes.
I have gotten those times down with a little practice but I wouldn't count speed as one of the WEPS attributes.
If speed was a factor, I most certainly would have gotten and tried to master a paper wheel set up.
 
I agree with the stones breaking in. Sharpen a few beaters first. Once they break in and you get the motion of sharpening (up and away) you'll be getting mirror polish in no time
 
Well I got the pro pack 1. A mirror polish isn't in my future until the ceramic stones come in. (5 weeks)

Sucks, but I got my mirror polish fix with the EP. I will definitely get the ceramics when I can though.

I love this system because it doesn't take so much concentration to keep the blade in the exact same spot, the clamp does it for you! Much easier to take your time and pay attention with this system.

Thanks for the tips Rubicon and everyone else. :D
 
CrimsonTideShooter said:
Well I got the pro pack 1. A mirror polish isn't in my future until the ceramic stones come in. (5 weeks)

Sucks, but I got my mirror polish fix with the EP. I will definitely get the ceramics when I can though.

I love this system because it doesn't take so much concentration to keep the blade in the exact same spot, the clamp does it for you! Much easier to take your time and pay attention with this system.

Thanks for the tips Rubicon and everyone else. :D
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If you want in the interim, pick up some automotive wet/dry sandpaper from AutoZone or whoever. It comes in 1000, 1500, 2000, 2500 etc. Grits
Put your paddle on it and cut it to width.
Tape it on the ends to your 800 or 1000 paddle ( I don't remember what comes in the Pac) doesn't matter.
There is your Mirror Finish. The ceramics are nice but no magic there (1200/1600) I use the ceramics for touch-ups but you are going to want the sandpaper anyway.
It tightens up your increments of grit.
 
Killing me to read and wait for my WE to come in. Can not wait. I only hope I can apply all the knowledge you guy are passing out.
 
CrimsonTideShooter said:
Got my WE today, and rounded the tip of my Para2. :(

I get hair whittling edges freehand, and with the Edge Pro. My first two knives with the WE just weren't sharp, so I'm doing something wrong for sure.

About rounding the tip, what do you mean by only apply pressure with your thumbs?
Click to expand...

CrimsonTideShooter said:
Well I got the pro pack 1. A mirror polish isn't in my future until the ceramic stones come in. (5 weeks)

Sucks, but I got my mirror polish fix with the EP. I will definitely get the ceramics when I can though.

I love this system because it doesn't take so much concentration to keep the blade in the exact same spot, the clamp does it for you! Much easier to take your time and pay attention with this system.

Thanks for the tips Rubicon and everyone else. :D
Click to expand...

John, If I could freehand an edge like you, I'd never lay a penny down on a system. I'm pretty good but you're like a machine. Good luck on your newest toy and sorry about your Spydie's tip. Glad it wasn't an XM-18. How many do you have now? Did you get that stop pin you were looking for? ;)
 
cziv said:
John, If I could freehand an edge like you, I'd never lay a penny down on a system. I'm pretty good but you're like a machine. Good luck on your newest toy and sorry about your Spydie's tip. Glad it wasn't an XM-18. How many do you have now? Did you get that stop pin you were looking for? ;)
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Yep I got em! I have 3 XMs total. :D

I do love to free hand, but on customer knives I like to use a guided system. Although I get mirror edges freehand, sometimes they aren't as "pretty" as the edges that the guided systems give.
 
CrimsonTideShooter said:
Yep I got em! I have 3 XMs total. :D

I do love to free hand, but on customer knives I like to use a guided system. Although I get mirror edges freehand, sometimes they aren't as "pretty" as the edges that the guided systems give.
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I just watched your Hinderer video John - WHOOOT!! 3 of those bad boys and just the way I have all of mine. Stonewashed and Spanto flippers. They just don't come any better than that. :p :D

I'm buying one more lg Sebenza w micarta inlay and I won' ever need another folder for EDC.
 
Pretty much what has been said but I'll throw in my 2 cents. Stones need a break in period. Clay rubbed two of my stones lightly together and sent the dust flying. He said the imbedded diamond powder has looser powder on top of that which is not able to stick to the paddle.

Don't extend the paddle past the tip but rather stop while the tip is still in contact with the middle of the paddle and pressure is only excerted on the tang side.

The first stone (100 grit) is the most important. I use a sharpie and a loop to get it right. I mark the whole edge of the blade and only work one side. When it looks like all the sharpie has been removed I may do it again. Then repeat the process on the other side. Once that's done the steps all the way up are a breeze and should be checked with a loop, but once you do it a few times you can both hear and feel when it is done.
 
Posted this on another forum also. This is what I do to all of my factory edges, and the results I get are fantastic. Quick, simple and very easy to maintain. :thumbup:


[video=youtube;tzSR_Zj2Z-U]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tzSR_Zj2Z-U&context=C4471264ADvjVQa1PpcFOuungcmEXgRbvXewzFQJhl 4AnXJ3wjJcs=[/video]
 
Bapple-
Great video, technique and result. I am (sadly) co-ordination challenged and can not seem to break what may be just a bad learned habit but,
I can not seem to get a tip to choil motion.
Is your sharpening (stropping) result similar with a choil to tip motion?
 
Hey Rubic. I have never tried choil to tip, since using the tip to choil has always worked great. Guess my muscle memory is set to tip to choil now and I don't want to mess with it since it is working. It just takes some practice and it usually comes pretty easy.
 
So today I get the extra stones and strop I ordered. I found a 11.5" X 18" X 1.75" piece of walnut I had in my garage for a base.......just one thing missing...Yep the Wicked edge. I am not sure if this is good or bad but do know I am going crazy. Keep reading everyone's post and getting lots of good stuff. Thanks everyone.

Wickededge001.jpg
 
Cool. Making progress. I just measured my base 1.5" thick seemed to work perfect (bolt length and such)
 
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