I made... something.

Whoo! Phillll You definately have a style going. Seeing all 3 in a row like that is interesting as it shows a specific style and progression. Most importantly, it looks like you are having a great time and making some awesome choppers while you are at it.

Need to take the camera to the forge with you and get a series of pics with the hot metal again for us. Please :D
 
I tried to give this one a forward curve. Bent the O1 billet almost 90 degrees forward before I started to forge the bevels, but it still came out straight in the end. Any tips on keeping a forward curve to the blade while still forging the taper into the bevels?
 
Shav- we are having another forge day this weekend. I will try to remember to snap some pics.
 
I'm skeered of forges myself, like to set myself on fire the other night just lighting the wood stove.

You forge drivers are brave folks. Me hats off to ya.

And Philllllvuk, kind of rolls off from the tongue. Trying to come up with a catchy phrase for Bookie, maybe we should have a contest.
 
philllll said:
I tried to give this one a forward curve. Bent the O1 billet almost 90 degrees forward before I started to forge the bevels, but it still came out straight in the end. Any tips on keeping a forward curve to the blade while still forging the taper into the bevels?
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How thick is your final forged edge? You should leave some meat anyway to prevent decarburization-that will lessen the curve a little. Also if you leave some distal taper forging to be done after edge beveling (since you're mostly drawin out the spine and flats) that will kick it back down some too. Thats easier with a power hammer than by hand, though (mostly because of the precision, not the heavy forging.
You really do have to put a pretty exaggerated downcurve to the blank-moreso at the thick parts (since you'll forge that more if you try to get it thin at the base of the blade).
Hope that helps a little.
 
The final edge is pretty close to the thickness on the parang blank you sent me, which BTW I should have done pretty soon. I put a full convex grind on it and got a set of teroturf scales for the handle. The handle was too hard to drill though, gonna have to anneal it to get the rivet holes drilled.
 
That seems to happen with 5160 and 52100 when you forge it thin from a thick section-I tend to either draw it to bright blue with a torch or leave it in the forge and shut te forge off, and let it cool down therein. It's a pain in the butt-I think at that section both those steels air harden a bit.
 
Philll, great shots!

Got 3 old truck springs in the back yard that I've been meaning to do something with. A Big chopper might be the ticket. This Spring/Summer I'll have access to at least 3 forges. I really should get with those guys and start hammering out something. One of the family's with a forge also has a Sword sized heat treat oven. :D

Please keep posting pictures!
 
Go for it Heber! It's tons of fun. A leaf spring is a perfect piece to start with. Just cut it to whatever length you want and go to town with a hammer!
 
Go to town with a hammer? You've been planting ideas in my wife's head ain't ya.
 
My issue is I have several steel blanks, and no forge. In theory I have access to one, but it's unlikely. I'm trying to talk a friend into letting me grind a knife out of the blanks and then do the hardening and heat treat in the one forge. I doubt I could make it work to do all of the work on the equipment of the forge owner. And who knows, maybe the guy with the grinders will actually get a forge like he's been saying for so long.
 
Philllll - How'd you make the sheath? It looks really great! I can figure cutting it out, but the holes for the sewing? Do you have a friend with an industrial sewing machine, too? :)
 
Hey bb,

I marked the hole locations with a special little wheel tool, punched each one out individually with a sewing needle chucked in a drill press, and then stitched it all by hand.
 
Scara said:
My issue is I have several steel blanks, and no forge. In theory I have access to one, but it's unlikely. I'm trying to talk a friend into letting me grind a knife out of the blanks and then do the hardening and heat treat in the one forge. I doubt I could make it work to do all of the work on the equipment of the forge owner. And who knows, maybe the guy with the grinders will actually get a forge like he's been saying for so long.
Click to expand...

The reason it takes me so long to finish each one is I have one friend with the forge, and another with all the finishing equipment. Takes a couple trips back and forth to finish one up. Also, the hardening is done in the forge but then I temper it in my kitchen oven. Stinks up the house real good!
 
Philll-get a rotary leather punch and a 1/16" or 3/32" cutter-it's well worth it. I've been marking with the wheel and punching all the holes that way for about ten years-much easier to get a harness needle through that than a needlehole.
 
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