If I have no money for a Busse and if A2 sucks? What options for a survival knife?

ukknifer said:
What if this happens?
ColdSteel-ReconScoutbustedinlog.jpg
Click to expand...
Interestingly enough This is a great picture because it's like a crime scene. Yes there may have been an issue with that particular blade, or the right angle underneath the guard, however I am referring to the fact that the angle with which this knife was being batonned is precisely how NOT to baton. You must keep the blade at least parallel or pointed slightly down. Having the handle lower than the point shows that the user was applying downward pressure on one side, striking with downward force on the other side, with the log passively providing upward force. If you just hold the handle of the knife only to keep the action in place, then this should not happen.


ukknifer. If you visit anyplace to gain some knowledge, then do so with humility. Your posts seem like challenges, backed up by heresay or a youtube video and that rubs people the wrong way. It is hard to tell whether you are here to poke fun or whether you are here to learn. All you threads are inflammatory in their verbiage. If you are sincerely here to learn then please, before you make a post, read it the readi it again and ask yourself if it sounds assy. I hope you take this advice in the way that it is given, friendly, and decide to stay.
 
ukknifer said:
maybe 250 to 300? $
Click to expand...

I own five Busses, and 3 of them were in that price range (SAR 3 LE, Terror Monkey Boss Street, and a NMSFNO 327))

The key is getting them at gun and knife shows from people like Mike (thatmguy) and getting them while they're the current production.

I hope you can find one



By the way, if you do get a Busse, it won't matter how you baton with it. I know there's a proper technique, but INFI can take most anything and still shave the hair off your arm :D
 
You'll have a hard time convincing me that A2 and 1095, when properly heat treated are not the best compromise (along with O1 imo) of durability, edge retention and ease of field maintenance.

Here is a 3/32 thick 1095 knife that I use as a camp knife, and It is a scandi grind. I have battoned the crap out of it with proper technique. I have never chipped or rolled the edge beyond repair with 2000 grit sandpaper and a leather strop. Think about that. A very thin scandi grind knife made of 1095 that is regularly "abused" and shows no signs of damage. This is the Norm for properly heat treated knives used with good technique. If you break a knife with a good heat treat it is probably your fault, not the knife's.

10anivcamping004.jpg

10anivcamping034.jpg

10anivcamping038.jpg



and still sharp enough to shave kindling


10anivcamping035.jpg
 
Marcelo Cantu said:
Interestingly enough This is a great picture because it's like a crime scene. Yes there may have been an issue with that particular blade, or the right angle underneath the guard, however I am referring to the fact that the angle with which this knife was being batonned is precisely how NOT to baton. You must keep the blade at least parallel or pointed slightly down. Having the handle lower than the point shows that the user was applying downward pressure on one side, striking with downward force on the other side, with the log passively providing upward force. If you just hold the handle of the knife only to keep the action in place, then this should not happen.


ukknifer. If you visit anyplace to gain some knowledge, then do so with humility. Your posts seem like challenges, backed up by heresay or a youtube video and that rubs people the wrong way. It is hard to tell whether you are here to poke fun or whether you are here to learn. All you threads are inflammatory in their verbiage. If you are sincerely here to learn then please, before you make a post, read it the readi it again and ask yourself if it sounds assy. I hope you take this advice in the way that it is given, friendly, and decide to stay.
Click to expand...

Very well put!
 
Md 25v said:
You'll have a hard time convincing me that A2 and 1095, when properly heat treated are not the best compromise (along with O1 imo) of durability, edge retention and ease of field maintenance.

Here is a 3/32 thick 1095 knife that I use as a camp knife, and It is a scandi grind. I have battoned the crap out of it with proper technique. I have never chipped or rolled the edge beyond repair with 2000 grit sandpaper and a leather strop. Think about that. A very thin scandi grind knife made of 1095 that is regularly "abused" and shows no signs of damage. This is the Norm for properly heat treated knives used with good technique. If you break a knife with a good heat treat it is probably your fault, not the knife's.

10anivcamping004.jpg

10anivcamping034.jpg

10anivcamping038.jpg



and still sharp enough to shave the lightest kindling


10anivcamping035.jpg
Click to expand...


Thats the Koster nessie I mentioned earlier. Fantastic knife. No youtube fails, so I guess its........... IMMORTAL
 
A BK-2 would be hard to break, I think it is 1095. It is just so thick that breaking it would be difficult. I think as you go up from there, you are paying for different qualities in a knife. I've got a Bravo 1 and it has never given me the impression that it was lacking in any way. Beautiful knife, extremely sharp and graceful, very tough.

pete
 
If you are needing a knife that tough, you should probably have a look at yourself. A knife needs to be respected, use a pry-bar when you have to, not a knife. 1095 or A2 are perfectly sufficient steels for any reasonable outdoors task.
 
As for the crime scene photo: Not having the perpetrator in house to question, what do you think are the odds that after batonning the blade deeply into the victim, he wrenched the handle sideways in a misguided attempt to pry the slab off the main body?
 
I'll sell you my SAR5 within your budget and even include a homemade leather sheath. Then you won't have to worry about it.

Or, I'll suggest you drop $50 on a Buck Nighthawk and see if you can break it. My FIL gave me a Buck 119 for Christmas and I have used it for almost everything EXCEPT cutting--including using it with a 3# hammer to limb trees. It's still going strong.

Knives are tougher than you seem to think.
 
elkins45 said:
Or, I'll suggest you drop $50 on a Buck Nighthawk and see if you can break it.
Click to expand...

I'm definitely not a fan of that knifetests hockey mask guy but that one surprised me. That knife took a thorough beating. For inexpensive 420HC I was quite impressed.
 
Ok, so just that people don't make false assumptions based on the photo, I'll post the trail master video again:

[youtube]KmO0XSWhV04[/youtube]
 
penetrator said:
Ok, so just that people don't make false assumptions based on the photo, I'll post the trail master video again:

[youtube]KmO0XSWhV04[/youtube]
Click to expand...

I still think his technique could've been better...initial strikes centered above the point of entry into the wood until flush.
 
Why would you try to split a big log like that with a knife anyway? It doesn't appear to be out in the bush. He could have just walked to the shed for an axe.
 
Sure, he's banging on the blade like a monkey on crack, but it still shouldn't break. It's 5/16" thick carbon steel, FFS! This is a definite design flaw due to the 90 degree angles at the tang.
 
beef said:
Why would you try to split a big log like that with a knife anyway? It doesn't appear to be out in the bush. He could have just walked to the shed for an axe.
Click to expand...

Or spent the $3 that he spent on the can of WD-40 on a box of fatwood at Kroger.
 
I didnt read through the whole thread so it may have already been mentioned..im fairly sure Jerry Busse used A2 before developing INFI.

food for thought.
 
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