It followed me home

Status
Not open for further replies.
G-pig said:
I dont. I have approx. a dozen vintage american made chisel in a rough set from 1/4 inch to 2 inch.

This is what I use as a slick. It may well be a framing chisel, Ive been told both. It does have the proper shaping for slicking though so I dont pay much mind to it.
Picture538.jpg


Thats 2 inches wide, with the crown on the bevel side as mentioned before. I made the handle out of sugar maple.
Click to expand...

How much crown G-Pig? It serves you well that is all that matters. I have know idea where to draw the line on when a chisel becomes a slick. Do you know the maker?
 
garry3 said:
How much crown G-Pig? It serves you well that is all that matters. I have know idea where to draw the line on when a chisel becomes a slick. Do you know the maker?
Click to expand...

The bevel side has a high centerline just like on a good American axe. I am not really sure how to measure it, but if I lay a straight edge on that side there is a very very pronounced high spot.

I always thought that you could tell a slick by the crown bevel side, back side that is curved (usually convex but sometimes concave, from socket to edge direction), and also by the socket being off set. I was told that a slick has to be at least 3 inches but I dont think that is true. I see some 3 inch slicks that look just like big framing chisels that I doubt would work particularly well for dressing any timbers or joiney or anything like that.

The manufacturer was Grossman. I know little about the brand, I was told it was a more economical line of tools. The steel is somewhat soft but still holds a fairly keen edge. I had to do some re shaping on both sides so that was an advantage.
 
G-pig said:
The bevel side has a high centerline just like on a good American axe. I am not really sure how to measure it, but if I lay a straight edge on that side there is a very very pronounced high spot.

I always thought that you could tell a slick by the crown bevel side, back side that is curved (usually convex but sometimes concave, from socket to edge direction), and also by the socket being off set. I was told that a slick has to be at least 3 inches but I dont think that is true. I see some 3 inch slicks that look just like big framing chisels that I doubt would work particularly well for dressing any timbers or joiney or anything like that.

The manufacturer was Grossman. I know little about the brand, I was told it was a more economical line of tools. The steel is somewhat soft but still holds a fairly keen edge. I had to do some re shaping on both sides so that was an advantage.
Click to expand...

Interesting stuff. I appreciate you taking the time to answer my questions and share your knowledge.
By socket being offset you mean toward the face to clear the work? Mine has no offset. But it must surly be a slick. Not all chisels did the same job, maybe different slicks for different jobs.
 
garry3 said:
I have know idea where to draw the line on when a chisel becomes a slick.
Click to expand...

Generally a slick is never struck but instead pushed with the hand and arm. Also, the handle of a slick should always be above the plane of the flat back of the slick so it never gets in the way of the work.
 
Square_peg said:
Generally a slick is never struck but instead pushed with the hand and arm. Also, the handle of a slick should always be above the plane of the flat back of the slick so it never gets in the way of the work.
Click to expand...

I don't know anything!:) What I thought was a slick chisel is just a very large pareing chisel. It just keeps getting better.
 
No problem. Love tools. I think yours is still a slick, they made oodles of them for different things. A shipwrights slick might well be radically different from a timber framers slick. They just arent used enough anymore to be conducive towards any sort of consensus on em.
 
Thanks for the info on slicks.just got from a bud moving to florida couldnt beat the cost free:) Hope to use them soon. maybe I can get on a cabin restoration detail.
 
05152012095_zpsf747407e.jpg
05152012096_zps0400a0f2.jpg

Buy it now off bay 14.95 4.5# I could not hit the buy button fast enough. think it will clean up nice should make a nice chopper:D
I guess dunlap was a sears product wonder who made them?
 
moosecreektrails said:
05152012095_zpsf747407e.jpg
05152012096_zps0400a0f2.jpg

Buy it now off bay 14.95 4.5# I could not hit the buy button fast enough. think it will clean up nice should make a nice chopper:D
I guess dunlap was a sears product wonder who made them?
Click to expand...

Damn! Thats nice Moose. I want to see it hung and ready for action.
 
Square_peg said:
Generally a slick is never struck but instead pushed with the hand and arm. Also, the handle of a slick should always be above the plane of the flat back of the slick so it never gets in the way of the work.
Click to expand...

Your absolutely right pegs...
I help a fellow out from time to time that timber frames. We use those in mortising.
There old 'Sheffield's' that he has.
 
Found this tonight after work. 5lb Plumb. I have not swung anything this heavy. Got the itch real bad.
P1010001.JPG
 
Steve Tall said:
Looks like a "rafting axe". The poll is probably hardened for hammering steel. A vinegar soaking would show it.
Click to expand...

Yes Steve, it is a rafting axe and the poll is hardened(there are chips out of the poll). It is soaking now. Going to a hard wood specialty store tomorrow to select a Hickory board. About time to cut some bow staves.
 
garry3 said:
Found this tonight after work. 5lb Plumb. I have not swung anything this heavy. Got the itch real bad.
P1010001.JPG
Click to expand...

I have that exact Plumb in my possession; it means the world to me. Glad to see another soul with one of these beauties :thumbup:
 
Garry what a great find. Looks like she will clean up nicely. I sure would like to find a Plumb like yours.
 
Here are a few items I scored at an estate sale today. The deceased appeared to have been a machinist and a bowyer, bless his soul. I hope he knows his tools went to a good home.

The larger axe is a Marshall Wells 'Northern King', feels like 3.5lbs., on a 34" handle. It's a sweet handle, nicely slimmed, great grain, large swell and it looks beautiful. It does need re-wedging though, it's a little loose. The poll is undamaged. It was $8.

The smaller axe is a vintage Craftsman (oval stamp) boy's axe. This one is in very fine condition. Blade came plenty sharp to use but not quite shaving sharp. It has another really fine handle, slim, great grain, large swell, all the things I like. The edge shows very little wear and the poll is immaculate. It was $5.

The spokeshave is a vintage Stanley No. 151 in very good condition. Light rust on the sole but otherwise like new. It set me back $8.

Last is a pair of wood rasps. They're large and they're fresh with good handles. $2 a piece.

Tools_1.jpg



Here's the stamp on the M-W. The bit on this one is 5" wide.

Marshall_Wells.jpg



The Craftsman oval stamp.

Check out the funky wooden sheath. It's made from 2 pieces of 1/4" plywood and 2 wedges of cedar.

Craftsman_Oval.jpg



Here's the Craftsman undressed. I love the shape of this head. It's got that perfect high center that's not too thick for chopping. The edge profile is perfect - I don't need to touch it with a file.

Craftsman.jpg



A look at the wooden sheath. You bet I'm gonna keep this with the axe.

Wooden_sheath.jpg



Lastly the spokeshave.

Stanley_151.jpg
 
What scores, Pegs!!!!! Awesome! That Marshall Wells is sweet. One of my VERY favorite hatchets is a MW Northern King. Coincidentally, my favorite of my spokeshaves is a Stanley 151.

Nice job, you lucky dog.
 
Sweet. The swell on that Northern Wells is cool. True axe geeks get excited about axe swells and drifts. :D
 
Dang you did good! Hope you didn't trip over any Yew longbows to grab them.:) I really like the Stanley 151. Put a Hock blade in mine ownley because the old one had been so abused. Man just can't have to many tools.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top