It followed me home

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Well, here are some pictures of the big things in Alton Dayton`s tool box:
-L and I J White lipped shipwright`s adz
-no name slick
-Two Disston D-23 saws one rip and one crosscut (post 1928) Man thinks that Alton bought them around the 30`s
-Ohio tool co. chisel
-L and I J White chisel

http://s1350.photobucket.com/user/NovakKnives/library/A1?sort=3&page=1

(No pictures of yet)
-2 chisel mallets, wooden bubble level, all kinds of auger and drill bits, square,and some more that I can not remember or check right now...
 
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Fall city Kelly works 3 lb 9 oz
And a pickaroon that I didn't get a picture of.
 
picked up a 7lb hunt's crucible hewing axe by Douglas axe manufacturing co. on a haft marked CPR with a split instead of a saw cut kerf.
 
theDH said:
picked up a 7lb hunt's crucible hewing axe by Douglas axe manufacturing co. on a haft marked CPR with a split instead of a saw cut kerf.
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Boy oh boy! That implement wasn't made (or used) yesterday. I would think that Canadian Pacific Railroad likely stopped using implements like this around the same time the 'last spike' was driven in the late 1880s. Then again, who knows what obsolete inventory was stashed away in tool cribs and hidey-holes all over CPR territory, just in case, while steam locomotives were still chugging along until the late 1950s.
 
theDH said:
picked up a 7lb hunt's crucible hewing axe by Douglas axe manufacturing co. on a haft marked CPR with a split instead of a saw cut kerf...
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The book titled Foxfire 9 has a section about an old-timer who makes axe handles, and when he installs the head he splits the haft instead of sawing it. He was commenting about the lack of people who know how to make an axe handle the right way.

I'm now wondering about why splitting could be better than sawing. As I recall, he made a pretty tight fit, hammering it in.(?) Maybe a thin wedge and the tight fit would keep the split from lengthening? Maybe it's more solid without a kerf?
 
Or maybe the split kerf holds the wedge better than a sawn kerf. You would just have to be careful not to split it too deep. Not a method you'd want to use in mass production but it might work better for a man who was careful splitting in his shop.
 
A deliberate split for a kerf instead of a sawn kerf has gotta be pretty darn tricky! You'll want to have clamped the handle tightly close to where the head seats or you risk creating 2 pieces of wood, especially if it's white ash you're using. Typically to keep cast iron or glass from splitting (ie cracking) further is by making a relief hole at the end. I personally see no reason why anyone would favour a split over a sawn kerf. Nice thing about a sawn kerf is you can blunt the tip of the wedge to correspond to the width of the saw kerf.
 
i paid full retail at 85$

this is the first split kerf i have seen, it was running off to the side with one piece almost falling off and a wedge about 1/4" wide at the top going halfway down the eye. it was hung very loose but the wood was all dried out and cracking. the haft has a bit of a bow that looks like it set in from leaning on a wall and the head has a bunch of scratches on the back of the eye all in the same direction so it looks like it was bouncing around a tool crib for a bit too.
 
theDH said:
i paid full retail at 85$

Very limited market for hewing axes (collectors and rustic decor roadhouses/bars, mostly) but when you consider what a similar quality 'G-B-fashionable' implement is going for these days you did pretty darn good. 2 years ago I had the opportunity to pick up something similar (no markings at all, though) for $150 and waited it out for 6 months. I don't think it ever did sell before the ad was withdrawn.
Lots of older farmsteads and hunting camps feature 'liberated' CPR cutlery and dishes and I have found a couple of their well worn coal shovels at garage sales but never come across anything like this.
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I was out on a walk in the woods the other day and found this stuck in a tree about 8ft up. Looks like an old fairly well used 2.5lb Hults Bruks axe. 17" or so handle. Looks like it's been out in the elements for awhile. There are no modern hultafors axe heads that I've seen that resemble this. Anyone recognize it?

PeiIpb4.jpg

GIVaXBO.jpg
 
I do and Hultafors does make one they call it the HY 20 felling axe. Also I looked on Bailey`s and they have an axe called the Ochsenkopf OX 20. I hope that this helps.
 
Liquidnails said:
I was out on a walk in the woods the other day and found this stuck in a tree about 8ft up. Looks like an old fairly well used 2.5lb Hults Bruks axe. 17" or so handle. Looks like it's been out in the elements for awhile. There are no modern hultafors axe heads that I've seen that resemble this. Anyone recognize it?

PeiIpb4.jpg

GIVaXBO.jpg
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That style was imported into the US in the 1980s. I have one like it that I bought then. I don't know how long they made the style. Also they had a 1 1/2 lb. head in that Hudson bay style.
 
A little off topic here, but some will think it is cool, and I will use it at work.
2 1/4" Stamped "Russell Green River Works".

P1010005.JPG
 
garry3 said:
A little off topic here, but some will think it is cool, and I will use it at work.
2 1/4" Stamped "Russell Green River Works".

P1010005.JPG
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They sure don't make 'em like that anymore. I would have grabbed that for sure. I bet it takes a helluva edge.
 
halfaxe said:
That style was imported into the US in the 1980s. I have one like it that I bought then. I don't know how long they made the style. Also they had a 1 1/2 lb. head in that Hudson bay style.
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It looks like they solved the problem of eye size of the traditional Hudson Bay pattern. It also looks like they put plenty of poll on the axe. Seems to be a very well designed axe.
 
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