It followed me home

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Ok thanks Square_peg, that is a real steal though wesm. Also Sqaure_ peg I went out and built a new bike ramp today with my Wards Master Quality double bit and a one man crosscut saw! :)
 
Junk store Wetterling. All credit to Steve Tall for ID'ing the brand for me. Warped handle (I'm guessing leaned in a corner for a few years), brushed on silver paint on the head. It's a safe guess it's not the original handle, both from the quality of the "hang" and the beating marks where someone removed it from a previous handle with the assistance of a hammer. Poll is a bit mushroomed too. As it sits I plan on rehanging it on a new handle, grinding off the beating marks and mushrooming (BTW I know some of you shudder at the thought of taking a bit to a grinder but I am very careful and go very slow and I am not breaking temper) and then sharpening it up. Mercifully there aren't any significant nicks in the edge. It's a shame the handle's warped, the grain is damn near perfect.











 
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Alocksly said:
Junk store Wetterling. All credit to Steve Tall for ID'ing the brand for me. Warped handle (I'm guessing leaned in a corner for a few years), brushed on silver paint on the head. It's a safe guess it's not the original handle, both from the quality of the "hang" and the beating marks where someone removed it from a previous handle with the assistance of a hammer. Poll is a bit mushroomed too. As it sits I plan on rehanging it on a new handle, grinding off the beating marks and mushrooming (BTW I know some of you shudder at the thought of taking a bit to a grinder but I am very careful and go very slow and I am not breaking temper) and then sharpening it up. Mercifully there aren't any significant nicks in the edge. It's a shame the handle's warped, the grain is damn near perfect.
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Looks to be a decent prize to me. If the handle can warp over time in one direction then for sure it can be coaxed to go back in the other. I have no experience with steam bending but that's how canoe ribs and snowshoe frames were shaped years ago. First off maybe if you just soak the handle in hot or boiling water for awhile (overnight?) and then clamp it in a jig until the wood dries out it may come out straight.
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If I can coax the head off without damaging the handle, maybe drill out the wedge, I'll try steam and traction to straighten it.
 
Several of us have had success steam straightening hafts. One of the guys, maybe Garry(?), posted a how-to. I've used his method several times.

Can't seem to find any photos on the hard drive at the moment. But what I do is put a roasting pan on the stove with about 3/4" of water in it. I center the most warped part of the haft over the pan and then cover the pan with wide heavy duty aluminum foil, tucking it in around the haft at tightly as possible. I let it steam at low temperature for about 20 minutes. Then I clamp it to a workbench applying shims as needed. Let it sit that way overnight.

They tend to bend back a little bit as they dry out over the next few days. But I've bent them too far also, and had to heat them back up to release some bend. Obviously I only do this if there is some overriding reason why I wish to preserve some handle. Exceptional grain and/or an exceptional swell (unclipped fawns foot) are some reasons why I would do this.
 
Right now I've set it behind the stove to dry it out and try to loosen the head. Since last night it's already got some wiggle.
 
Here's a couple new toys I haven't shared yet.

Collins Legitimus Connecticut pattern in pretty decent shape. 3-1/2 pounds.
Collins%20Legitimus%20Connie.jpg



R-W treadle grinder. Functional but missing the water can and in need of a little TLC.
R-W%20grinder.jpg
 
I'm jealous Peg, I'd love to get my hands on a grinder like that. Hell, I'd settle for just the stone and build a jig to hold it myself.
 
300Six: "Looks to be a decent prize to me. If the handle can warp over time in one direction then for sure it can be coaxed to go back in the other. I have no experience with steam bending but that's how canoe ribs and snowshoe frames were shaped years ago. First off maybe if you just soak the handle in hot or boiling water for awhile (overnight?) and then clamp it in a jig until the wood dries out it may come out straight."

That's what I'm trying now. The head looks better for losing it's silver paint job and having some dings smoothed out.



 
brought this home today along with a boys axe only marks I can find are DY on the top of the poll and 2 1/4 on the bottom of the poll.

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I had to do some cleaning but it turned out pretty nice....Now I just need to find an auger file.
 
Nice looking auger! Must be about 1-1/2" or 2". It's surprising how fast a good auger cuts.

I've had no trouble sharpening mine with regular mill files and small stones. Once you get it sharp then do some test cuts and see that each blade is cutting equally. If one blade is doing most of the work then file it down a bit to get the blades even.
 
Square_peg said:
Nice looking auger! Must be about 1-1/2" or 2". It's surprising how fast a good auger cuts.

I've had no trouble sharpening mine with regular mill files and small stones. Once you get it sharp then do some test cuts and see that each blade is cutting equally. If one blade is doing most of the work then file it down a bit to get the blades even.
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Yup 1-1/2" I'll try out the regular mill file but don't have any stones that small. I'm looking forward to playing a little with it. I can read light makers mark that says James Town but that's about all I can read
 
I really like the little leather pockets/pouches for the stones, a bit of protection while they're in a drawer or pack… I always buy sharpening stones at yard sales and such, I've yet to find one in a nice pouch like that.
 
not a blade but a good find 30$ for both came with all the original paperwork too a starrett 230 0-1" and starrett no.2 1-2" also a starrett 1" round gauge block
they are used but have been well cared for will some more good use.

No i dont store it with the anvil and spindle touching like that



 
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