It followed me home

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Thought you axe junkies would appreciate this picture. The Adirondack Mountain Club Pro Trail Crew. They all yield Snow and Nealleys

 
^That's some serious randomness. One guy looks like he's about to blow chunks, one dude hoisting a dog, and yet another that is bare ass naked.
 
Really nice and most encouraging photo. Reassuring to know that the current generation are not entirely glued to the screens of their electronic devices in trying to solve the world's problems. There is nothing like discovering that a hard day's work makes you sleep well at night and wake up rested.
 
Looks like a fun rowdy bunch. I'd love to bust some trail open with that crew. One of our local WTA crew leaders used to be with that Adirondack group. Her axe skills impressed me.
 
Don't think I've posted in this sub forum before but here it goes. Just picked up this double bit True Temper Kelly Perfect. There's a junk store(complete with the cigar smoking octogenarian owner manning the counter) next to my barber's shop that I usually peruse before cuts. This was to be had for next to nothing so I overlooked the chip, besides that she looks decent, what are your thoughts?


 
MrVandercar said:
Don't think I've posted in this sub forum before but here it goes. Just picked up this double bit True Temper Kelly Perfect. There's a junk store(complete with the cigar smoking octogenarian owner manning the counter) next to my barber's shop that I usually peruse before cuts. This was to be had for next to nothing so I overlooked the chip, besides that she looks decent, what are your thoughts?
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Whatever you do with this will be more attention than it's had in quite some time. The blade will be difficult to sharpen first time around because of the rust hardening but other than that it'll chop just fine once there's a new handle on there. What's nice about double bits is a handle is much easier to make from scratch than is a curved axe version.
 
The toes a a bit worn but it's restorable. And you know it will have good steel. It'll still chop.
 
I like the picture of the trail crew. The guy bearing down on the streaker with his axe does give it a Manson family vibe though.
Here is the good and the bad of my recent "It followed me home".
Neighbor gave me a crusty 3 1/2lbs jersey. Discovered it has a cracked eye from someone trying to pound out the broken handle.
I'm thinking I will weld it up and mount it on a plastic handle for a loaner/ beater.
At least the price was right.
ry%3D400

ry%3D400
 
Got my first 2 man saw its a diston and my first double bit which is a plumb.

I don't much about saws but I think its a champion tooth pattern and it seems to have plenty of life left in it. Little to no rust and the handles and hardware are very secure and snug.
*Correct me If I'm wrong I have a lot to learn about saws and sharpening them*

$50 for both I was happy!



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The one side seems to have much more life on the Plumb than the other. This will match my Plumb hatchet that was my grandfathers that I just re handled as well as my 3.5lb single bit plumb got a nice little set forming.

I'm thinking vinegar bath and I might shine this double bit up before I re handle it.
 
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You did very good for $50. That's a plain tooth felling saw. The shallow spine is designed so that you can get a wedge into the cut sooner. It will need to be jointed, set and sharpened. FWIW, I think the best 'first saw' is a 42" to 54" one man saw with an auxiliary handle.

I'd bet the old Plumb was used in the logging industry. That's where you will find such heavy use on one side of an axe. Also it shows the remnants of a half-banana grind - something you're more likely to see on a professional's axe than on some homeowner axe. Also, whoever cared for it kept the face of the bit correct - e.i. the toe and heel length in proportion to the center of the bit. It's not too rounded off. That's another sign that it was owned by somebody who knew axes.

The rust is pretty light on that Plumb and I think it would look great if you just cleaned it up with a wire wheel. A vinegar bath will remove the wonderful patina that lies under the rust. As you begin to sharpen it keep in mind that it will have a very hard oxidation layer on the surface which is difficult to file through. At first it may seem nearly impossible to file. The trick is to work through that layer in one small area and then work your file out from there, lifting the oxidation layer from below. Once the oxidation layer is removed it will file easier.
 
Square_peg said:
You did very good for $50. That's a plain tooth felling saw. The shallow spine is designed so that you can get a wedge into the cut sooner. It will need to be jointed, set and sharpened. FWIW, I think the best 'first saw' is a 42" to 54" one man saw with an auxiliary handle.

I'd bet the old Plumb was used in the logging industry. That's where you will find such heavy use on one side of an axe. Also it shows the remnants of a half-banana grind - something you're more likely to see on a professional's axe than on some homeowner axe. Also, whoever cared for it kept the face of the bit correct - e.i. the toe and heel length in proportion to the center of the bit. It's not too rounded off. That's another sign that it was owned by somebody who knew axes.

The rust is pretty light on that Plumb and I think it would look great if you just cleaned it up with a wire wheel. A vinegar bath will remove the wonderful patina that lies under the rust. As you begin to sharpen it keep in mind that it will have a very hard oxidation layer on the surface which is difficult to file through. At first it may seem nearly impossible to file. The trick is to work through that layer in one small area and then work your file out from there, lifting the oxidation layer from below. Once the oxidation layer is removed it will file easier.
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Thank you very much Peg as always your a wealth of knowledge. I do have a 36" cross cut saw but this is my first bigunn. So being a felling saw this tooth pattern is good for green wood I'm guessing?

I'll take your advice on the wire wheel and leave the patina that this axe has earned over the years. Thanks for the great tip on the oxidation thats another thing I had no idea about.
Theres an area with a small nick or two I think I'll start there.
 
If I'm not incorrect, plain tooth saws are more for hard woods, but it's all a matter of particulars. Way back, almost all saws were plain tooth, but then rakers were introduced to remove wood faster in softer woods. Then you get champion/tuttle tooth, Great American, Lance and perf lance, etc.

On the whole, you can use any pattern to cut through anything, but what's more efficient and easy is where you get into all the tooth pattern choices.
 
Nice well Im looking forward to sharpening my saws one of these days gotta get some small files.

I'm getting ready to wire wheel my plumb double while my council tools dayton soaks in some vinegar.
 
Well here she is. Good call square peg it now matches my grandfathers Plumb boy scout hatchet and single bit 3 1/2lb plumb.

Time to order a handle for this beauty.

Now what other kind of plumbs do I need to continue my set a 5lb plumb?

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jpeeler said:
If I'm not incorrect, plain tooth saws are more for hard woods, but it's all a matter of particulars. Way back, almost all saws were plain tooth, but then rakers were introduced to remove wood faster in softer woods. Then you get champion/tuttle tooth, Great American, Lance and perf lance, etc.

On the whole, you can use any pattern to cut through anything, but what's more efficient and easy is where you get into all the tooth pattern choices.
Click to expand...

My experience trying to cut sugar Maple/Rock Maple with a plain tooth was not a positive one. Cutting any kind of softwood, especially green, they worked great though. The plain teeth tear the fibers apart more, so something less dense is easier to cut.
 
G-pig said:
My experience trying to cut sugar Maple/Rock Maple with a plain tooth was not a positive one. Cutting any kind of softwood, especially green, they worked great though. The plain teeth tear the fibers apart more, so something less dense is easier to cut.
Click to expand...

Thank you for the input that gives me another reason to try and find a hardwood tooth pattern then too. :thumbup:
 
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