Junk Steel

Sand-covered rope can be considered pretty damn hard. I can actually see the point given that my 583-1 in M390 gets blunted and chipped from cutting onion roots that come with free dirt. I'm honestly not sure whether wear resistance or toughness factors more into cutting stuff with sand and dirt in it, but I'd preferably want CPM-3V for it.


Cross-steel comparisons, no. Same steel? It's usually the case.


Some people have differing standards on what "sharp" is.


Going to have to agree that S30V would get more cuts, provided both knives are HT properly. CRK S30V at Rc 57 might not do so well if the 1095 is Rc 59+. Though I believe testers have revealed that the performance difference really isn't too drastic to the tune of cutting twice as much. Maybe a more modest 10-20% improvement.


Some people like the classics, and I hold no grudge against them, because it's all the more BM 943-1's in S90V for me(also an oldie but goldie).

And realistically speaking, nobody is going to die because their knife couldn't cut it. Or at least, I have yet to hear stories about male corpses found on a mountain with a blunt knife clutched in his hand, dead because he couldn't chop himself some firewood;). I think most of us are careful enough to have a second knife with us.

I would also prefer 3v to 1095.

I was referring to cross-steel, as that is what he was referring to. But even same steel, not always the case.


I totally get that people have different perceptions on what sharp is. But that doesn't mean I won't LOL at them. I mean, cutting hardened fiberglass with 8cr and thinking it's still pretty sharp? Come on.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

If you guys won't believe me, believe Ankerson. If you have optimized sharpening equipment for your steels, the difference in sharpening between supersteels and non-supersteels is negligible. If you don't have optimized sharpening equipment, then of course you'll think 8cr and H1 are the end all be all. But if you don't have optimized sharpening equipment, I won't take you seriously on a topic like this. So there goes that theory of sharpening as the reason for low end steels over high end.

Now that that's said, whatever task you are doing there will always be a supersteel that performs better at it. 3v is tougher (and stronger) than H1. M390 is more wear resistant than 8cr. If for some reason you refuse to advance with the times and use the wonderful supersteels we have available to us today, that doesn't make your low end steels any better or more effective. It also doesn't make your uses any "harder".

Why would you not use K390 to cut that sandy rope? Ankerson has already explained that with optimized sharpening equipment, sharpening is a non-factor. I promise you that K390 would have performed so much better than 1095 in that role. The only other reason that I can think of that you might say is cost. But cost and your sharpening equipment (and skill) have nothing to do with the performance of an optimized steel (HT, geometry, edge, etc.). No matter which way you look at it, there will always be a supersteel that outperforms your old "crap" steels when both are optimized for the job. Now, do these crap steels still have a place today? To me, no. To you? Maybe. But don't try and say that these low end steels are somehow better or more effective, because they are not.

I'll repeat this again, because it's a big point I hear a lot. Sharpening. Refer to what Ankerson said at the top of page 6. If you do not have optimized sharpening equipment and would prefer to use a file and a belt, that does not mean your low end crap steel performs better. It just means you do not have the means to utilize a supersteel.
 
You shoulda at least undressed that for us man. ;)

Haha!
I can strip for ya if ya like!:D

I bought that knife when they first hit the shelves, $39, still have it after all these years..................
I love things that perform beyond the price!:D
 
Well no, I'm not annoyed. Because I realized the reason it chipped was because I was cutting dirt with it. Speaking of which, I was trimming/cleaning the onions before putting them on the shelves, not gardening;). That was back in the days when I actually used my knives for work. Nowadays my folders don't see much use aside from cutting tape and popping plastic straps.

It wasn't a big chip either, just small micro-chipping that you could only feel if you drag your nail along the edge. Wasn't a big deal to sharpen them out. M390 is my top steel of choice for custom knives(Phil Wilson Southfork, Andrew Demko AD-10, Brian Tighe Nirk Tighe). It mostly behaves like stainless CPM-M4. Back in the days when I had to cut down 250+ cornstalks/day, it was the only one that just kept going while holding that razor sharp edge the longest. The S90V class steels could also hold an edge, but it required a slicing motion that needed more than a 4" blade to slice through in one clean cut. M390 was absolutely perfect for extended push-cutting through very thick and abrasive medium. Never saw a speck of rust either:thumbup:.

Very cool. I've never tried m390 (and likely won't unless there is a price drop or I get a gift of an m390 knife) but it sounds like a very nice steel.
 
Haha!
I can strip for ya if ya like!:D

I bought that knife when they first hit the shelves, $39, still have it after all these years..................
Don't fancy getting rid of stuff that performs beyond the price.

I hear you on that last.

It's true, what some say, that whether a steel is more expensive doesn't mean it has a bearing on its ability to outperform a cheaper steel. But, for many, price IS going to be a factor in whether or not a certain steel type is used, and if you have a steel (or a knife whose steel you don't even care about) that performs well for you at a price that works for you, why fix what isn't broken?

I'd love to try some of the newer stuff like m390 that people keep talking about, but so far I can't find a knife with that steel for below $200, or with a very long blade considering what I'm paying for it, so it's hard to justify getting one.

I found a Benchmade Barrage that now has m390 but I've already got a Barrage, and it's one of the few I have found with a blade length that (to me) justifies its price.
 
This thread seems like it's starting to gather the "Jehovah's Witnesses of Blade Steels." It's been informative (and entertaining.)
 
Speaking as a steel snob, K390 is not something that's widely available, and even among custom makers there's only so many willing to work with it. I myself missed the opportunity to swipe a K390 Mule Team <_<

So the choice not to use that is understandable, even more so if the available knife in question doesn't have the ergonomics you like. I find that fixed blades in M390 and Elmax are rather scarce as well, with the correct edge geometry and heat treat to bring out its full potential. Luckily, I did manage to swipe an old ScrapMAX 340 in Elmax steel:thumbup:.

I wouldn't go so far as to call other steels "crap" or "lesser", lest I find my ESEE Junglas lurking over my bed right above my neck with the stupid sharp edge I put on it:eek:.

I'm guilty of having an "optimizing" mentality as well, which left me with a $1,300 Cannondale bike that I only rode 3 times in the past year:D. Unless your budget is sizable and you can afford to have everything custom-made, you realize the only real consideration is whether or not it can get the job done and do it again and again. Anything past that point is just an extra self-gratifying service.

Striving for "the best" is also quite costly as I kept buying ZDP-189, then S90V, then S110V, then S125V, then CTS-40CP, then Vanax 75, then M390, then CTS-204P. Every time something "better" comes out, I jump on it like flies to rotting meat:D. And I already got my eyes on that Maxamet steel:D.

So I would actually congratulate anyone who found satisfaction in what they have, because apparently the very definition of being unhappy is to not appreciate what you have and drool after what you don't have, so you can see the depth of my despair by the 75+ knives I have thus far which was in "this year's hottest steel":D, from last year:D. I suspect these folks also have a lot more disposable income and have a nice gun or two to accompany those knives.
 
I hear you on that last.

It's true, what some say, that whether a steel is more expensive doesn't mean it has a bearing on its ability to outperform a cheaper steel. But, for many, price IS going to be a factor in whether or not a certain steel type is used, and if you have a steel (or a knife whose steel you don't even care about) that performs well for you at a price that works for you, why fix what isn't broken?

I'd love to try some of the newer stuff like m390 that people keep talking about, but so far I can't find a knife with that steel for below $200, or with a very long blade considering what I'm paying for it, so it's hard to justify getting one.

I found a Benchmade Barrage that now has m390 but I've already got a Barrage, and it's one of the few I have found with a blade length that (to me) justifies its price.

Funny, I have tried them all..........
Not going to mention a favorite here, I have my reasons.............
But find your own way, through trial an error, its the only way, my friend!:thumbup:
Experience..............
 
Speaking as a steel snob, K390 is not something that's widely available, and even among custom makers there's only so many willing to work with it. I myself missed the opportunity to swipe a K390 Mule Team <_<

So the choice not to use that is understandable, even more so if the available knife in question doesn't have the ergonomics you like. I find that fixed blades in M390 and Elmax are rather scarce as well, with the correct edge geometry and heat treat to bring out its full potential. Luckily, I did manage to swipe an old ScrapMAX 340 in Elmax steel:thumbup:.

I wouldn't go so far as to call other steels "crap" or "lesser", lest I find my ESEE Junglas lurking over my bed right above my neck with the stupid sharp edge I put on it:eek:.

I'm guilty of having an "optimizing" mentality as well, which left me with a $1,300 Cannondale bike that I only rode 3 times in the past year:D. Unless your budget is sizable and you can afford to have everything custom-made, you realize the only real consideration is whether or not it can get the job done and do it again and again. Anything past that point is just an extra self-gratifying service.

Striving for "the best" is also quite costly as I kept buying ZDP-189, then S90V, then S110V, then S125V, then CTS-40CP, then Vanax 75, then M390, then CTS-204P. Every time something "better" comes out, I jump on it like flies to rotting meat:D. And I already got my eyes on that Maxamet steel:D.

So I would actually congratulate anyone who found satisfaction in what they have, because apparently the very definition of being unhappy is to not appreciate what you have and drool after what you don't have, so you can see the depth of my despair by the 75+ knives I have thus far which was in "this year's hottest steel":D, from last year:D. I suspect these folks also have a lot more disposable income and have a nice gun or two to accompany those knives.

In my line of work (educating the youth of today) I don't think I'll ever be in a position to jump on the latest, hottest steels (and sadly unlike so many things, knives made from these steels don't seem to depreciate much when the newer ones come out, drat) but I think it's cool that you have such a sizeable collection that seems to be made of only these high end awesome knives. Perhaps if I limited myself to one, maybe two knives per year on the outside, or one or two good ones every few years, I could get a few of these. But even if I did that, there'd be something new by the time I got my hands on what was then latest and greatest. I have more than 75 knives, but you have much better knives, and even if I'd made the decision to have less, I'd still only really be able to justify 4 or 5 of these greatest knives ever, and that would be the extent of my collection, probably (and in a few years they wouldn't be so great anymore as far as the knife community is concerned).

Honestly, while I am not really a steel snob even with my optimal (for me) sharpening equipment, I get why some people are. If you have enough income that you can afford to be, why wouldn't you be? Part of me wishes I could be, but my budget does not allow for this, so I make do with what I can afford and take pride in that. Even if I get laughed at for it. I've been laughed at for worse. ;)

Having said all of that, thank goodness the knife world doesn't move nearly as fast as the world of technology. :o
 
Speaking as a steel snob, K390 is not something that's widely available, and even among custom makers there's only so many willing to work with it. I myself missed the opportunity to swipe a K390 Mule Team <_<

So the choice not to use that is understandable, even more so if the available knife in question doesn't have the ergonomics you like. I find that fixed blades in M390 and Elmax are rather scarce as well, with the correct edge geometry and heat treat to bring out its full potential. Luckily, I did manage to swipe an old ScrapMAX 340 in Elmax steel:thumbup:.

I wouldn't go so far as to call other steels "crap" or "lesser", lest I find my ESEE Junglas lurking over my bed right above my neck with the stupid sharp edge I put on it:eek:.

I'm guilty of having an "optimizing" mentality as well, which left me with a $1,300 Cannondale bike that I only rode 3 times in the past year:D. Unless your budget is sizable and you can afford to have everything custom-made, you realize the only real consideration is whether or not it can get the job done and do it again and again. Anything past that point is just an extra self-gratifying service.

Striving for "the best" is also quite costly as I kept buying ZDP-189, then S90V, then S110V, then S125V, then CTS-40CP, then Vanax 75, then M390, then CTS-204P. Every time something "better" comes out, I jump on it like flies to rotting meat:D. And I already got my eyes on that Maxamet steel:D.

So I would actually congratulate anyone who found satisfaction in what they have, because apparently the very definition of being unhappy is to not appreciate what you have and drool after what you don't have, so you can see the depth of my despair by the 75+ knives I have thus far which was in "this year's hottest steel":D, from last year:D. I suspect these folks also have a lot more disposable income and have a nice gun or two to accompany those knives.

I would congratulate someone who found satisfaction in what they had, but if they had experience d the best first and then went back. That doesn't usually happen. Is that the definition of unhappy? I am very happy with what I currently own. But that doesn't mean I won't acquire something that's better.
 
........

It wasn't a big chip either, just small micro-chipping that you could only feel if you drag your nail along the edge. ....

I have experienced the same. Higher alloy steels tend to micro chip during my use rather than role.

Actually read about it last night again.

Sandvik: powder-metallurgical-steels


Powder-metallurgical knife steels

Examples of grades: Any high-alloy powder-metallurgical steel grade for knife applications

Powder-metallurgical (PM) steels have a much finer structure than the coarse-carbide steels, but the carbides still have about 200 times larger volume than the small carbides in the microstructure of Sandvik 12C27.

The structure is homogenous and has a high carbide density. This makes powder-metallurgical grades highly wear resistant and the medium-size carbides give satisfactory edge properties.

Due to their high fraction of hard and brittle carbides, these grades are difficult to sharpen and have low toughness. Especially if used on keen edge geometries, these grades have a tendency to chip in the edge, which is known as micro-chipping.

Powder-metallurgical steels are good for knives on which demands on wear resistance are very high and on which demands on edge performance, such as edge toughness, regrindability, edge stability and keen edge geometries, are moderate.

Sandvik's knife steel knowledge is actually quite nice IMO.

http://www.smt.sandvik.com/en/products/strip-steel/strip-products/knife-steel/knife-steel-knowledge/

On another note. It is sad to see a lot of misinformation being spread around about metallurgy and steel performance claims when there are free resources available like this that IMO any "steel snob" should read in order to understand the importance of heat treatment to bring out the best in any steel:

Metallurgy of Steel for Bladesmiths & Others who Heat Treat and Forge Steel - By John D. Verhoeven (2005)

Arthur C Reardon-Metallurgy for the non-metallurgist, second edition-Materials Park, Ohio _ ASM International (2011)

Huh. Really? You must know something that a lot of us don't, then.

No, it is quite common knowledge, but probably the person that stated this the best IMO is metallurgist and knife maker R. Landes.

Roman Landes said:
....geometry cuts not the steel!

Steel and its condition just tells you for how long this condition stays valid.

Then in more detail.

Roman Landes said:
Let me start here.
The nature of your question cant be answered by a few threads, its a tremendous job to learn and compile the knowledge to get this done.

58 HRC is not the number to start with.
Its just a figure that does simply indicate that this specific steel reached this hardness but nothing else.
In fact the 1095 treated to this spec would have a great chance to be a low performer since at a regular HT i would be exactly in the toughness-minimum of this alloy no matter what grain size it reached (see tempering curves vs. torsional impact strength) The phenomena is called blue brittleness. This is one reason why you don't go for given numbers like 58HRC....

Your goal should be the best possible micro structure!

On the other hand you have so many factors, that rule the proper HT and the unforeseen things out in the field just like Kevin stated are infinite.
So so comparing a precise and repeatable industrial designed HT process with some whatever screwed redneck version of a HT out of undefined and improper and maybe even junky equipment is simply impossible. Since the chance of hitting every result form good to inferior is undefined too. In the end there is no need to do the quantitative comparison between undefined end well controlled and executed HT. There is a need to fully control what you do by using proper equipment and in depth knowledge.

So your goal should be to go for the best possible control of the HT process

Next and even more important question here is, what will be the geometrical figures of the edge and blade. The geometrical figures of a blade are more important to knife performance than the question of steel or HT. Geometry cuts, steel just determines for how long

So your goal is get the thinnest possible blade and edge geometry to reach out for more performance

Next thing is how will the knives be compared with? Slice cutting, push cutting on what media and under which conditions.
Of course there are standardized test available to the public to compare at least 10 vs.10 blades to have sufficient security about your results. But do you want to pay for it?

Finally, i just align myself to Kevin and need to day besides all that technical figures the most important variable of all is the user itself. The type of use and attitude towards the tool rules most over lifetime.

So your goal could be to try to control and align everything about the technical aspects of a knife, and at the same time try to teach your customers, that the more they respect their tool, the more "multi purpose" they leave away from the infinite tasks of the knife, the more they get in terms of performance.

In the end of the Day your question gets redundant. And the only thing you, I hope, will be heading for is performance, driven by proofen facts and fundamental knowledge that is available in good book.

A good example of edge retention in a low carbide steel heat treated optimally can be seen here:

[video=youtube;cRjOtyqJ6P4]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cRjOtyqJ6P4[/video]
 
I have experienced the same. Higher alloy steels tend to micro chip during my use rather than role.

Actually read about it last night again.

Sandvik: powder-metallurgical-steels


Powder-metallurgical knife steels

Examples of grades: Any high-alloy powder-metallurgical steel grade for knife applications

Powder-metallurgical (PM) steels have a much finer structure than the coarse-carbide steels, but the carbides still have about 200 times larger volume than the small carbides in the microstructure of Sandvik 12C27.
Maybe Mora botched it, but my previous Mora knives in 12C27 showed a regular tendency to chip massively and had pretty much zero edge retention.

However, I've certainly liked the performance of 13C26 and its equivalent AEB-L.

The structure is homogenous and has a high carbide density. This makes powder-metallurgical grades highly wear resistant and the medium-size carbides give satisfactory edge properties.

Due to their high fraction of hard and brittle carbides, these grades are difficult to sharpen and have low toughness. Especially if used on keen edge geometries, these grades have a tendency to chip in the edge, which is known as micro-chipping.
I think the word in there is "high fraction", as I've observed that to be the case for S90V and up. The steel will chip rather than roll. But as I've already mentioned, S30V tends to roll for me.

Powder-metallurgical steels are good for knives on which demands on wear resistance are very high and on which demands on edge performance, such as edge toughness, regrindability, edge stability and keen edge geometries, are moderate.
Sounds good, I mostly use my knives for casual use, not camping use. As for the keen edge geometries, I found that to be significantly improved in the 3rd Generation steels, pretty much to the point where I don't notice much of a difference between them and AEB-L, with the exception of the 9% and higher vanadium steels.

On another note. It is sad to see a lot of misinformation being spread around about metallurgy and steel performance claims when there are free resources available like this that IMO any "steel snob" should read in order to understand the importance of heat treatment to bring out the best in any steel:[/QUOTE]
Hardly needs to be said, but such high quality HT typically can only be found in custom HT, or sourced HT to Peter's/Bos. Production HT tends to be a bit more inconsistent, and typically on the lower end of the 2-point Rc range. I certainly like the newer steels for the fact that their "low end" is in the 60s, a welcome trait if toughness isn't necessary.
 
I have a leatherman charge tti with s30 v. Love it, I sharpen it with wet and dry sand paper and it goes to hair popping pretty quick. Then I have 440c, cr9 mov19, generic SAK steel, 7cr mov17. I would have any f these again barring the cr7 mov17. I am with you on some being too hard and liking soft steels but this is ridiculous. It takes two cuts in Jarrah to knock the edge off. It is rubbish. Maybe it was the heat treat but I bought 3 knives in it at the same time and two of them were absolute rubbish. One of them s all rght but if i see 7cr mov17 I turn the browser off.
 
I hear you on that last.

It's true, what some say, that whether a steel is more expensive doesn't mean it has a bearing on its ability to outperform a cheaper steel. But, for many, price IS going to be a factor in whether or not a certain steel type is used, and if you have a steel (or a knife whose steel you don't even care about) that performs well for you at a price that works for you, why fix what isn't broken?

I'd love to try some of the newer stuff like m390 that people keep talking about, but so far I can't find a knife with that steel for below $200, or with a very long blade considering what I'm paying for it, so it's hard to justify getting one.

I found a Benchmade Barrage that now has m390 but I've already got a Barrage, and it's one of the few I have found with a blade length that (to me) justifies its price.
If you don t mind a 3.25 inch blade that is very sturdy, look at the ZT0350 m390.
 
...The only other reason that I can think of that you might say is cost.... If you do not have optimized sharpening equipment and would prefer to use a file and a belt, that does not mean your low end crap steel performs better. It just means you do not have the means to utilize a supersteel.

Again. I will repeat myself again. I prefer a lower end, easier to use steel that may not hold its edge longer but is easier to resharpen in the field without fancy sharpening equipment and will deform rather than chip when stressed. When the performance of S30V and 1095 is so close for what I do with a knife it doesn't outweigh the cost of a super steel vs. a tried and true knife steel like something "lower end."

Why would I pay extra money for a knife, extra money for a sharpening setup that is not portable, when I have used several steels that do what I want, like I want them to? As I said. I prefer a steel that may not cut as long but is easy to sharpen on the spot without specialized sharpening equipment.

but you are right. cutting rope isn't hard use. 8Cr was so dull after cutting fiberglass i threw the knife away. and i've never used good steels. you caught me.

so, if my cutting chores aren't "hard" on a knife's edge, what are yours? what do you do for a living that entails using a knife several times a day every day? There is a difference between cutting the same medium over and over again for a youtube video and using it as the final word on a particular knife steel and actually using a knife as a tool for your job.

You promise that k390 will far outperform 1095, which I don't deny that it will, but for my use, how much more performance will I get out of it, will I be able to sharpen it up in a few seconds on the spot and get back to work? What gives you the experience to make these promises? Watching a backyard "steel test" on youtube? Or actually using a knife, in real life, every day?
It's hard to take you seriously when you refer to 1095 as a "crap" steel and say it doesn't have a place in modern knife useage, yet it has been around for about a century longer than 3v and is still being used. Go figure. LOL
 
Maybe I'm missing something, but I don't understand or see the need for some to justify their tastes to anyone else, especially some stranger on the internet.
 
Again. I will repeat myself again. I prefer a lower end, easier to use steel that may not hold its edge longer but is easier to resharpen in the field without fancy sharpening equipment and will deform rather than chip when stressed. When the performance of S30V and 1095 is so close for what I do with a knife it doesn't outweigh the cost of a super steel vs. a tried and true knife steel like something "lower end."

Why would I pay extra money for a knife, extra money for a sharpening setup that is not portable, when I have used several steels that do what I want, like I want them to? As I said. I prefer a steel that may not cut as long but is easy to sharpen on the spot without specialized sharpening equipment.

but you are right. cutting rope isn't hard use. 8Cr was so dull after cutting fiberglass i threw the knife away. and i've never used good steels. you caught me.

so, if my cutting chores aren't "hard" on a knife's edge, what are yours? what do you do for a living that entails using a knife several times a day every day? There is a difference between cutting the same medium over and over again for a youtube video and using it as the final word on a particular knife steel and actually using a knife as a tool for your job.

You promise that k390 will far outperform 1095, which I don't deny that it will, but for my use, how much more performance will I get out of it, will I be able to sharpen it up in a few seconds on the spot and get back to work? What gives you the experience to make these promises? Watching a backyard "steel test" on youtube? Or actually using a knife, in real life, every day?
It's hard to take you seriously when you refer to 1095 as a "crap" steel and say it doesn't have a place in modern knife useage, yet it has been around for about a century longer than 3v and is still being used. Go figure. LOL


K390 vs 1095?

Well 1st off there aren't really enough K390 knives around except for a few customs and the Spyderco Mule Team.......

That said cutting abrasive materials yeah K390 will out perform 1095, by how much, that depends on the knives and the actual use.

And those will vary greatly.....
 
K390 vs 1095?

Well 1st off there aren't really enough K390 knives around except for a few customs and the Spyderco Mule Team.......

That said cutting abrasive materials yeah K390 will out perform 1095, by how much, that depends on the knives and the actual use.

And those will vary greatly.....

exactly my point.

and if the margin is narrow, a so called "junk" steel like 1095 is easier to field sharpen with a pocket hone and get back to work, which, for my purpose, is much more preferable to a high alloy super steel that needs "the optimized sharpening equipment."

Strong-Dog's claim that people who use "junk" steel are people who don't really "use" their knives except for opening envelopes is laughable. The absolute ignorance of his statement begged for comment. I don't know what experiences led him to that conclusion but I would definitely enjoy hearing about them.

There is a reason why commercial fishing boats use carbon steel boning knives to dress out their fish, sometimes a thousand fish a day is cut. They take a nice toothy edge, good for getting through scales and slime, they can be brought back to shaving sharp with a few passes on the fine side of a stone, and they are inexpensive. But the number one reason is that the blade is user friendly for people who actually make thousands of cuts each day.
 
exactly my point.

and if the margin is narrow, a so called "junk" steel like 1095 is easier to field sharpen with a pocket hone and get back to work, which, for my purpose, is much more preferable to a high alloy super steel that needs "the optimized sharpening equipment."

Strong-Dog's claim that people who use "junk" steel are people who don't really "use" their knives except for opening envelopes is laughable. The absolute ignorance of his statement begged for comment. I don't know what experiences led him to that conclusion but I would definitely enjoy hearing about them.

There is a reason why commercial fishing boats use carbon steel boning knives to dress out their fish, sometimes a thousand fish a day is cut. They take a nice toothy edge, good for getting through scales and slime, they can be brought back to shaving sharp with a few passes on the fine side of a stone, and they are inexpensive. But the number one reason is that the blade is user friendly for people who actually make thousands of cuts each day.


Well, most of the reason is the knives are cheap so if they lose the knife it won't matter much as they usually have more than one handy just in case.

Most of it's cost factor more so than performance as there are people out there that are using Custom Fillet knives in the higher wear resistant steels in the same business, and not just a few.....

The Fillet knives with the better steels aren't exactly cheap, even the production ones, but the Customs are expensive.... More than most would be willing to pay so they use the more cost effective ones just in case something happens.

Dropping a $400 Custom Fillet knife over the side would be awful to say the least.

That's like saying that meat cutters use X steel because of the same reason, it's not, they use what they use because the knives are supplied to them and the companies get what they get.

Back to the fillet knives, they are thin so they cut well and sharpen up very fast and easy, but have to be steeled or sharpened what 4 or 5 times a day, maybe more....

Also if the company supplied the workers with $100 Fillet knives I would bet a lot of them would end up on EBAY or Craigs List.... So that's something to think about also.... People being what they are... Human Nature etc.....

There are a lot of factors involved that have nothing to do with the actual steel or even the knives being used....
 
Last edited:
Back
Top