K20 | Picture Gallery

Next is the saya planning...

I'll take some pictures in comparison to the Busse F16, OMG-15 and FMV14. A little on the chilly side today to be outside.

kYH6ox0.jpeg


*Also interesting is that the OD green Terotuf weighed in at 28.2 oz. The grey Terotuf weighed in at 28.8 oz.
 
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Next is the saya planning...

I'll take some pictures in comparison to the Busse F16, OMG-15 and FMV14. A little on the chilly side today to be outside.

kYH6ox0.jpeg
Thanks in advance for the comparison shots! I have all those Busse swords (and then some), so it might help me get a better idea of what to expect, assuming I make it into the next K20 preorder.
 
Comparison pictures of blades, mostly swords...

C0Qm1BS.jpeg


Busse FMV14
Blade Length: Approx. 14 1/8"
Overall Length: Approx. 20 1/2"
Blade Width: Approx. 1 3/4"
Blade Thickness: Approx .250"
Weight: 32.8 oz.

SYKCO OMG-15
Blade length: Approx. 15”
Overall Length: Approx. 22.5”
Thickness: Approx. .220”
Weight: 22.6 oz.

Carothers K20
Blade Length: 20"
Overall Length: Approx. 28.75”
Thickness: Approx. .190”
Weight: 28.2 oz

Busse F-16
Blade Length: Approx. 16"
Overall Length: Approx. 22 3/4"
Blade Thickness: Approx .210"
Weight: 28.6 oz.

Busse Last Rites
Blade Length: Approx. 8"
Over All Length: Approx. 13 3/4"
Blade Thickness: Approx. .210"
Weight: 17 oz.
 
Comparison pictures of blades, mostly swords...

C0Qm1BS.jpeg


Busse FMV14
Blade Length: Approx. 14 1/8"
Overall Length: Approx. 20 1/2"
Blade Width: Approx. 1 3/4"
Blade Thickness: Approx .250"
Weight: 32.8 oz.

SYKCO OMG-15
Blade length: Approx. 15”
Overall Length: Approx. 22.5”
Thickness: Approx. .220”
Weight: 22.6 oz.

Carothers K20
Blade Length: 20"
Overall Length: Approx. 28.75”
Thickness: Approx. .190”
Weight: 28.2 oz

Busse F-16
Blade Length: Approx. 16"
Overall Length: Approx. 22 3/4"
Blade Thickness: Approx .210"
Weight: 28.6 oz.

Busse Last Rites
Blade Length: Approx. 8"
Over All Length: Approx. 13 3/4"
Blade Thickness: Approx. .210"
Weight: 17 oz.

Please compare and contrast
 
That's awesome! You swung it and chopped the wood right? This isn't batoning?
Swung it in as deep as it would bite, beat the blade about halfway in by repeated hammer strikes onto the larger log, and then had to finish the other half with a baton to get through the knot.
The K20 is a blast to split small logs and make kindling with. Anything small enough will blast apart, and the larger stuff can be split with a baton.
 
Please compare and contrast
Being back in the US for a few days for the first time in a number of months, I've been comparing the K20 with the Swamp Rat Free Rein, both of which were waiting for me. It's really night and day. The K20 is properly balanced for a wakizashi. The Free Rein is still too blade heavy, despite the improvements on the earlier TNT-15. The K20 is precisely machined with a consistent edge. The Free Rein has the fit and finish of a Mora, and the edge thickens considerably towards the tip. The K20 handle is very well thought out - deceptively simple. The Free Rein handle is too narrow and slick, although there's a ready, ugly solution to that by wrapping with grip tape.

Granted, the Free Rein was only half the price of the K20, but it's still not a cheap blade. It should be a fun bush sword for messing around with outdoors, and TBH I'm far more likely to actually use it, but it's not in the same league as the K20.

If CPK ever makes a K30 katana with full guard (perhaps removable, screwing into the front of the handle), it would be a very expensive toy, but difficult to pass up.
 
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