Knife you could rely on for survival

Rhinoknives1 said:
The man I made those for was a bit bigger and stronger than me at 6’4” and 250Lb and a complete Woodsman & Hunter! They haven’t broke or Chipped and they are ATS-34 and I had PAUL Bos do the HT at 56-57 instead of the RC of 58-59 that was what we used on the Hunter & Chef Knives of ATS-34
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Did you get any complaints that lowering the hardness gave them lower abrasive resistance? Also, did lowering the RC make them as easy to sharpen as, say, 5160 at that hardness? I don’t know much about the how carbides (ferrites?) in carbon steel differ from the chromium? or tungsten carbides in stainless.
 
Yonose said:
Did you get any complaints that lowering the hardness gave them lower abrasive resistance? Also, did lowering the RC make them as easy to sharpen as, say, 5160 at that hardness? I don’t know much about the how carbides (ferrites?) in carbon steel differ from the chromium? or tungsten carbides in stainless.
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I discussed my Bush Wacker Knife with PAUL at Buck while he had them there at Buck knives and told him about the hard chopper use these blades would get and he suggested lowering the RC to avoid chipping and to make them just a tad easier to sharpen with Stones in the field!
 
Rhinoknives1 said:
I discussed my Bush Wacker Knife with PAUL at Buck while he had them there at Buck knives and told him about the hard chopper use these blades would get and he suggested lowering the RC to avoid chipping and to make them just a tad easier to sharpen with Stones in the field!
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Thanks for the reply, I guess good ole ats-34 and 440c with lower rc would be my choice as well, then for a solo survivor knife in salty, humid, air.
I will withdraw the question.
I will either make one myself or check the forums,
 
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Yonose said:
Thanks for the reply, I guess good ole ats-34 and 440c with lower rc would be my choice as well, then for a solo survivor knife in salty, humid, air. What would you charge for such a blade? If you are retired from this, I haven’t seen many makers here work with it in a large blade but I haven’t checked everybody yet.
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What do you consider large??
 
Rhinoknives1 said:
What do you consider large??
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12-14” blade if the thickness is over .2” A machete over 18” blade length would be large to me. I’ve a busse cgbb13(.23” thick? 13” blade), which is probably pretty rust resistant,(infi) and it’s got a hard coating as well, so I doubt it would ever rust. It didn’t need any sharpening after clearing a trail blocked by what seemed to e almost as hard as petrified wood.
 
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Yonose said:
12-14” blade if the thickness is over .2” A machete over 18” blade length would be large to me. I’ve a busse cgbb13, which is probably pretty rust resistant,(infi) and it’s got a hard coating as well, so I doubt it would ever rust.
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I have a Bowie, Cook & Field blade, Depending on how it’s ground.. PM me an email & we can continue this discussion in private ..:)
 
So any place on the planet? One knife?
Although i dislike the company i would have to go with the esee junglas, the only esee i have left.
Reason for choice...
1-Rather have a knife thats too big than too small.
2-Simple steel, easy to sharpen and maintain. Quite a wide blade so plenty of meat to do regrinds to suit needs of the situation ( dependant on local geological offerings)
3-if it breaks, chances are you have a good deal of useable steel left.
4-reasonable defensive weapon
 
ronnie hood said:
So any place on the planet? One knife?
Although i dislike the company i would have to go with the esee junglas, the only esee i have left.
Reason for choice...
1-Rather have a knife thats too big than too small.
2-Simple steel, easy to sharpen and maintain. Quite a wide blade so plenty of meat to do regrinds to suit needs of the situation ( dependant on local geological offerings)
3-if it breaks, chances are you have a good deal of useable steel left.
4-reasonable defensive weapon
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Just out of curiosity if you don’t mind me asking, and I’m not asking to be an a$$ because there are brands I don’t like, why don’t you like Esse?
 
I’ve never owne d ajunglas, but have used the rtak2 extensively. As a 1 blade only knife, it preps kindling pretty good, holds an edge long enough, is light enough to clear a trail, and I could go on. So if a machete was something I needed to have, I’d take the 10” rtak2 over a 12-14” tramontina any day. Holds an edge a lot longer than the tramontina as well, just as easy to sharpen, and forms a patina quickly. It could quarter small game but skinning would be a chore.
 
Pilsner said:
For any new and unsuspecting members, please do not believe everything you read.

I would unpick this post point by point, but past history has proved this to be an exercise in futility. I will only say that it is mostly gibberish.
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I can't wait for the "unpicking" by people who think 420J is a second-rate steel (fit for wall hangers no less, honest!)... I'd love to see their totally honest side by side between 420J and INFI...

Rusty 5" handle-heavy nail files are Survival Knives: Let's keep that in mind. As the owner of Esee knives said: 90% of this industry is bullshit. Therefore, logically... Go for the Rambo 10" licensed copy knife made in 420J, and add to it a $10 Marbles 10" bowie sheath (if you can improve the retaining strap)... Hey, it can even unscrew flat head and phillips screws: What special thing did a Mora do for you lately?...

Gaston
 
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