Laminated Bowie WIP - Photo Heavy!

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Why am I having such a hard time grinding my laminated Blades :mad:
 
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The pieces are clamped and left for at least 48 hours. If left for less than this, the molecular diffusion will not adequately take place.



You are such a liar! You told it me was the special clamp! I've been trying to get the carbon molecules to migrate north-south for weeks! Now I find out it's the glue?!?!??!

This is just like that time when you told me I could release the demons in my head by using a hand drill and a coal shovel... I'm never listening to you again.


Would it be too much of a spoiler to ask for any conceptual drawings you might have done for this one?

Keep the pics coming - I love these threads.:)
 
Ok, here's a few updates...


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The three bars, two stainelss and one 52100 are ground clean, ready to weld.


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The steels need to be sealed to be protected from oxygen which will attack the stainless at forging temperatures. The billet can be sealed in a can, wrapped in layers or heat treating foil, or the seams can be welded shut. I've done it all of those ways and they all work. This billet has been welded shut at the seams.


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The billet is heated to what I call muy hot. 2500 F.


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The billet is welded first on the press...


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...then on the hammer.


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The welded billet.
 
You are such a liar! You told it me was the special clamp! I've been trying to get the carbon molecules to migrate north-south for weeks! Now I find out it's the glue?!?!??!

This is just like that time when you told me I could release the demons in my head by using a hand drill and a coal shovel... I'm never listening to you again.

Matt, You had me laughing so hard with that one, that I had tears running down my face!
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Here is the forging of the blade....


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I'm grinding the weld off the edges of the billet. Didn't want to wait for it to cool down, so it's screaming hot and I'm holding it with vise grips.


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Re-heating the billet.


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Starting to forge the point.


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And now the point is done. It's a lot easier to just put a thin core into these laminated blades and grind them to shape with little or no forging. But forging is fun, and being able to forge the blade to shape shows the strong bond between the layers.


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Forging the lower edge narrower, as this will be a recurved blade.
 
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This is one of the little known dangers of getting your steel too hot - it can eat off the front of your hammer. :D


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Fixed the hammer. I hand-forge the bevels first before starting with the power hammer.


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Pulling the bevels down with the power hammer, starting at the choil...


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And finally finishing with the tip.


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After the power hammer, I'll go back by hand and clean up the forge marks left by the hammer. This is as close as I'll forge the blade profile on this knife. With laminated steel, you need to careful that you don't try to forge in every detail if doing so might radically affect the placement of the core steel.
 
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Forging the hidden tang. Actually, it's a "narrow" tang as it will run through the handle to the nut at the butt end.


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And the tang is done. For now....


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This is the blade, as forged, before I start grinding. There will be one more forging step to come, but this is where I am for now.
 
Burt

I've really enjoyed your knives for quite a while, but the laminates had the most visual appeal. This is going to be the kick in the butt I needed to try this technique.

Thanks
 
A true MASTER at the forge......great WIP and thanks for doing it. :cool:
 
I like where this is going. You gonna do a little 'bolo' flavor on this one Burt?
 
Great thread, Burt. Thanks for sharing!

You've inspired me to try this myself. What filler do you use for welding the seams shut?
 
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