Lets see some Hinderer action

First two hinderer's for me. The 3.5" seems pretty tough to flip, to get past the indent. If you don't hold anywhere near the lock bar, it's easier. The action on my ZT 0562 is easier. Is this just a break in period? Also, with the 3", is it just cause it's lighter, that you have to flick your wrist to get it to come out, not as much momentum from the heavier blade? I messed with the screw a little, that just increases or decreases the tension on the blade, causing it to not come out at all if it's too tight. Just kind of learning about these blades, is this why some say they're finicky?

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Roikyou said:
First two hinderer's for me. The 3.5" seems pretty tough to flip, to get past the indent. If you don't hold anywhere near the lock bar, it's easier. The action on my ZT 0562 is easier. Is this just a break in period? Also, with the 3", is it just cause it's lighter, that you have to flick your wrist to get it to come out, not as much momentum from the heavier blade? I messed with the screw a little, that just increases or decreases the tension on the blade, causing it to not come out at all if it's too tight. Just kind of learning about these blades, is this why some say they're finicky?

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Yes, Hinderers are a little "finicky" and, yes, there is a break-in period too, as there is with any knife.

If the detent (your "indent") is stiff on your 3.5", that's probably a good thing. The best flipping Hinderer I had was a 3.5 FE Sparrow which caused my finger a huge amount of pain breaking in. Perfecting your grip and staying away from the lock-bar as you mentioned is essential. A tight detent should break in nicely after many flips and yield you that "snappy" flipper that many Hinderer owners seek. A tiny blob of fluoro-grease on the detent ball can help overcome that initial tightness, though that application is more appropriate for smoothing the action as the ball tracks the blade tang opening and closing. Part of the break-in will be the ball wearing a small indent (like a ramp) where it climbs onto the tang and lubrication will retard that process. I would suggest sucking it up and waiting until the knife is broken in before greasing the ball. To help with break-in, hold the knife with two hands, using the index finger of one on the flipper and the thumb and forefinger of the other on the studs to work the ball over the tang, opening and closing just a few degrees over-and-over-and-over.

I've never owned a 3" XM, but you are largely correct in that a smaller, lighter blade will not flip as well as a larger one, but practicing proper technique should help. You'll notice that XM flipper tabs are hooked "forward" when the knife is closed and the "rearward" jimping would appear to be on the wrong, or downward, side of the tab. This is appropriate as most XMs should be "push-buttoned" instead of "light-switched" to flip open. Build a bit of pressure down and forward with your index finger on the tab, then flip emphasizing pushing the tab toward the handle more than pulling through. It takes a bit of practice, but once you get it, it'll come easily and you should be able to deploy your blade consistently.
 
Roikyou, I’ve have found that Hinderer models do have a break in period. One thing I dislike is when the detent is so weak that the blade shakes out easily. Should this be the case with your 3” Hinderer then flipping action will not improve with time but technique can help. I know that Hinderer wanted this feature in earlier models but has stiffened up the detents over the past year and a half or so.
 
The detent on the 3" is not as prominent as the 3.5 but it does not shake out easily. It does have a good snap when you flip, definitely a difference when you push button versus light switch opening the knife. The snap when opening on the 3.5 is louder than the 3 but again, it's most likely the weight. And yes, even both the 3 and the 3.5, breaking in the push button open, there is that pain breaking them in. I keep getting this saying stuck in my head, "don't be a nancy". I have the 24 coming in tomorrow. Now I want the Jurassic and thought about the Eklipse Bowie.
 
Roikyou said:
The detent on the 3" is not as prominent as the 3.5 but it does not shake out easily. It does have a good snap when you flip, definitely a difference when you push button versus light switch opening the knife. The snap when opening on the 3.5 is louder than the 3 but again, it's most likely the weight. And yes, even both the 3 and the 3.5, breaking in the push button open, there is that pain breaking them in. I keep getting this saying stuck in my head, "don't be a nancy". I have the 24 coming in tomorrow. Now I want the Jurassic and thought about the Eklipse Bowie.
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I totally know what you're talking about. With the firmer detents, Hinderer flipper tabs can be downright murderous on the finger. But they do break in.
 
People get so hung up on the flipping action and while I get it, the other qualities that Hinderer’s have are the things that keep me coming back. Great ergonomics, lock up and ease of maintenance, to name a few.
 
Don’t get me wrong, the first thing I do is nit pick, learn the ins and outs. Compared side by side to the 562, you can see and feel the quality. Which is why i have a third coming in tomorrow and thinking of a forth. I really like how light the 3” is, I think its a great light edc.
 
Roikyou said:
Don’t get me wrong, the first thing I do is nit pick, learn the ins and outs. Compared side by side to the 562, you can see and feel the quality. Which is why i have a third coming in tomorrow and thinking of a forth. I really like how light the 3” is, I think its a great light edc.
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The 3" XM is a really, really great EDC.
 
I've owned a dozen Hinderers from productions to full customs. I considered a Hinderer as a "knife that will flip" until the improved detent. All the newer 3" and 3.5" XM-18 will flip like a charm. It may take a break in period, especially for someone new to Hinderers.
 
Got a question for you guys. I don't have another blade on me right now, I'll check tonight but I put a carbon fiber scale on my 3" hinder and everything fits flush except by the stud. Is this common for all scales or did I just get the lucky carbon fiber scale.

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Has anyone else been eyeing the xm18 3.5 non flipper spanto in m390 at dlt. I am having a hard time not putting one in the cart.
 
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